What do we eat in Vietnam?

Banh mi- a long bread roll with a filling of our choice visible behind the counter

Pho- broth with rice noodles, bamboo shoots, lemongrass, meat (also seafood) and rice vinegar

Sajgonki- spring rolls made of rice paper with meat filling (also with fish) or vegetarian (tofu, soy noodles), vegetables

Lau- a communal pot of hot broth in which each guest cooks their chosen additions (meat, seafood, noodles, vegetables)

Bun Bo Hue- spicy beef broth with noodles and vegetables

Banh Goi- deep-fried dumplings stuffed with meat

Grilled dishes- meat, seafood, vegetables, frogs, pigeons

Banh Xeo- omelette with meat, seafood wrapped around vegetables

Ca Phe- Vietnamese coffee always served with egg yolk

Our recommendations

- night sleeper bus

- Vietnam Airlines

- Lua Vang Hotel (Golden Rice Villa) in Hoi An

- Cafe des Amis restaurant and chef Mr. Kim in Hoi An

- Bang Beach in Hoi An

- night markets in Hanoi, Hoi An, Da Nang and Ho Chi Minh

In the park by one of the tombs, we came across trees bearing Durian fruit. It is cultivated throughout Asia and added to many dishes, including salads, confections, meats, and rice. A distinctive feature is the smell of rotten meat, which deters many a gourmet. Even approaching the tree requires considerable self-control. Transporting Durian fruit on airplanes is prohibited. If we have eaten any dish containing it, it was entirely without our knowledge.

A cruise on the Mekong Delta is combined with lunch, a tasting of local spirits, and a visit to a handcraft factory producing coconut candies called "chewy candies." Folk bands provide entertainment during meals.

The Cu Chi tunnels built by the Viet Cong around the capital stretched approximately 200 km. They housed hospitals, weapons depots, command posts, and shelters for guerrillas. They were equipped with spike traps made of bamboo. American soldiers typically avoided probing them due to the heavy losses incurred. The tunnels reached depths of several meters, and at the deepest level, there was an emergency exit in the form of a water siphon leading to the Mekong Delta.

Several shorter sections of the tunnels are open to tourists. You must realize that they have been widened and adapted for visitors. The entrance to one of them, visible below, used to be much smaller.

The Vinh Trang Monastery was established in the 19th century and has become a tourist attraction due to the world's largest reclining Buddha statue, which is nearly 50 meters long.

Ho Chi Minh City

Saigon, the former capital of the Republic of Vietnam, is the last destination of our journey. The name of the city, associated with chaos in our minds, fully reflects the chaotic defense in the final stages of the Vietnam War. After the victory of the northern forces, the name was changed to Ho Chi Minh City.

With temperatures reaching 40 degrees Celsius (February) and high humidity, sightseeing is challenging. The Notre Dame Cathedral, built in 1880, and the post office building from the same period are the main attractions visited by tourists. There is also the "pink church" and the War Museum.

We must visit the War Museum, but after that experience, we need a lot of time to recover from the nightmare. It is one of the few museums in the world where the theme is not victory, but the damage caused by the invader. The effects of Agent Orange, used on a massive scale by the American army, are still visible today. It was theoretically supposed to be harmless to humans and only destroy forests. After years, it turned out to be very harmful to all living organisms, causing damage to fetuses.

Night markets are organized differently than in other cities in Vietnam. A busy street in the center is blocked by the police at a set time. Stalls are rolled out from the gates of buildings, which are set up within minutes, and several hours of trading begins. It is an excellent place to shop for all kinds of goods, but we must remember to bargain, as prices for tourists are usually inflated.

When in Ho Chi Minh City, we must sign up for tours to the Cu Chi tunnels and the Mekong Delta. On the way to the delta, we usually pass by the Vinh Trang monastery, which is included in the tour itinerary.

Hoi An

One of the most important ports of the maritime Silk Road that emerged in the first millennium BC. It gained even greater significance in the 16th century due to the rapid development of trade with Europe. The Chinese, Japanese, and Portuguese had their trading posts here. The name of the city means "the city of peaceful landing."

In 1999, Hoi An was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Interestingly, the historic shape of the city has been preserved thanks to the efforts of a Polish archaeological mission working on the reconstruction of My Son. In the plans of the Vietnamese authorities in the 1990s, there was a proposal to demolish the historic center and replace it with modern housing estates.

Among the particularly valuable monuments is the Japanese covered bridge with a temple located in the middle. At the same time, there is a ticket office here where we buy our entrance ticket to the city. A three-day ticket costs 120,000 Dong (22 PLN) and allows entry to 5 out of 21 different tourist attractions. At each entrance, the ticket inspector stamps our ticket - it's up to us to decide which sites we will visit.

Hoi An is also called the city of lanterns due to its centuries-old tradition of lantern production. The old port looks most beautiful after dark when rowing boats illuminated by lanterns appear on the water.

Among the attractions to see are old family trading houses where daily life is still ongoing. We can catch a glimpse of how the locals live, familiarize ourselves with the interior architecture from previous centuries, and view the memorabilia, photographs, and documents collected over the years.

It is also worth visiting the museum-gallery “Precious Heritage” by Réhahn. It was created by a French traveling reporter. It is famous for its gallery of photographs of women from various Vietnamese tribes. I've took the opportunity to present a few of them.

I also recommend visiting the market, where we can buy every spice, fresh fruit, and of course all kinds of souvenirs. In the restaurants on the port waterfront, you can enjoy good and inexpensive meals while having a wonderful view of the main waterway.

We spent a few days in Hoi An staying in a small hotel outside the city. Since we had bicycles at our disposal, we used one morning to visit the sea. Swimming in February brought a lot of joy, and the rice fields we passed along the way, emitting the intense aroma of freshly cooked rice, reminded us of the lunch waiting for us.

The Vietnamese calendar differs from the Gregorian one and is based on the phases of the moon. In most homes, the wall calendar hangs in a place of honor. As you can see, next to February 16, 2020, it was the 23rd day of the month Thang Gieng (the second month), and it was Sunday, or Chu Nhat.

The calendar should be approached with due respect. We must not tear off the pages ourselves. This is done by a designated family member, and then the page is burned with a special intention.

I made this mistake and wanted to tear off a page as a keepsake. Almost the entire family tried to stop me. When I explained what I meant, there was a consultation with the oldest members of the family. I received permission, but the page was torn off by the hostess and then handed to me. I keep it in my collection of souvenirs.

Street development in the older parts of towns is a remnant of colonial French regulations. The plots had a maximum width of 6 meters, with no restrictions on the depth or height of the building.

If you find a small restaurant on the ground floor and ask about the restroom, you will discover that you must go deeper into the building and navigate through several courtyards to use it. Along the way, you pass hanging laundry, residents watching television, home altars with Buddha, and an outdoor kitchen. Everyone greets you and gestures to confirm that you are heading in the right direction.

Curiosities

Vietnam's telecommunications infrastructure does not look very impressive and is the subject of humorous prints on t-shirts. The hanging clusters of cables create an impression of complete chaos. Contrary to appearances, like every country that entered the Internet and mobile phone era late, the technical equipment is very technologically advanced. In most areas, we had 4G and 5G network coverage on our phones.

My Son

A complex of Hindu temples, whose history dates back to the 4th century AD. Until the 15th century, it served as a place of worship for the kings of Champa, but after the region was occupied by the Vietnamese, it was completely abandoned. The ruins, overgrown by jungles, were discovered by French archaeologists in 1898.

From that moment on, a period of clearing and discovering further objects and inscriptions began. In the early years of the complex's existence, the buildings were wooden and were completely destroyed. The first brick sanctuaries, the remnants of which we see today, were built in the 7th century.

During the Vietnam War, My Son served as a base for the Viet Cong partisans. For this reason, it became a target for American carpet bombing, which caused irreversible destruction. As a result of international protests, President Nixon imposed a ban on air operations in the area.

After the war, reconstruction work began, involving a large group of Poles from the Lublin conservation workshop. In one of the buildings, we find a plaque commemorating our assistance.

We are transported to the archaeological park by electric cars from the tourist center. You are allowed to move freely throughout the area, entering the buildings. In one of the sanctuaries, there is a small museum dedicated to the history of the Cham people.

A battle is constantly being fought with the surrounding jungle, which forms a several-meter-thick wall of greenery at the park's borders. If it weren't for the continuous clearing work, the park would be engulfed by the jungle again within a few years. This gives an idea of the difficulties faced by Americans trying to penetrate deeper into Vietnamese territory.

Ba Na Hills

Ba Na Hills was established in 1919 as a resort for French colonizers. Located in the mountains at an altitude of 1500 meters, it has a cooler climate, allowing wealthy officials to escape the heat of Da Nang.

The name comes from the banana forests that originally covered the hills. It is said that Banana Hills was too difficult to pronounce, and that is why the name was shortened to Ba Na.

From this period comes the oldest stone buildings with a characteristic church reminiscent of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris.

In recent years, Ba Na Hills has been transformed into an amusement park. Access to the mountain is provided by a cable car. At the top, several palaces styled like Disney cartoons, an underground amusement park, and gaming casinos have been built. You can eat and relax in dozens of restaurants and, of course, walk across the "Golden Bridge."

There are also a few quieter places like a Buddhist monastery. Generally, however, you should be prepared for crowds of tourists with small children and noise.

Since gambling is prohibited in neighboring countries, special tours to Ba Na Hills are organized, where participants spend several days without leaving the casino.

Da Nang

The road from Hue to Da Nang passes through the longest tunnel in Southeast Asia, the Hải Vân Tunnel, which is over 6 km long. It was opened in 2005 and significantly shortens travel time by bypassing the Annamite mountain range.

The city is currently the largest seaport in this part of the country. There is also an international airport here. During the Vietnam War, the first American troops landed on the beaches of Da Nang, calling it China Beach. The coastal area shows massive investments in the tourism industry with the best exclusive hotels in the region.

It is an excellent base for short trips to the most tourist-attractive places in Vietnam:

- the Cham Sanctuary in My Son, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site

- Ba Na Hills in the Annamite Mountains, combining an amusement park with a resort and gaming lounge

- the ancient port town of Hoi An.

The nightlife of the city centers around the Dragon Bridge, where there are large markets connected with portable eateries. It is a great place for shopping and evening relaxation. On Saturdays, a special show for tourists takes place on the Dragon Bridge, attracting crowds. The winding dragon, which forms the structure of the bridge, first breathes fire and then sprays the area with water. Many colorfully decorated boats appear on the Han River during this time. The reflections of lights in the water create a magical atmosphere, and each flame bursting from the dragon's mouth elicits applause from the audience.

Hue

Hue was the capital of Vietnam during the imperial era and remained so until 1945, when the communist government decided to move the capital to Hanoi. The city was founded in the 16th century at the mouth of the Perfume River and was initially named Phú Xuân. From that period comes the citadel and the Forbidden Purple City, which is the imperial palace. There are also 7 scattered tombs of emperors who died of natural causes located in various places here. We only had one day to explore Hue, which is definitely too little. In the evening, we took a bus to Da Nang. Hue suffered greatly during the Vietnam War, and essentially all the monuments were reconstructed from scratch with the help of conservators from around the world. Work is still ongoing in the Purple City, and some sites can only be viewed through drawings and photographs from the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries depicting the court and the imperial family.

Phong Nha

The national park tours are planned for 1 day with a break for lunch (included in the cost). Usually, the route includes visiting the animal rehabilitation center, waterfalls, the Dark Cave, and Hang Thien Duong (Paradise Cave).

Discovered in 2005, Hang Thien Duong is the longest cave in Asia. The total length of known corridors exceeds 31 km. The height of the chambers sometimes exceeds 70 meters, and the width is 150. A beautifully lit section of 1.2 km is open to visitors. We move along specially built walkways, making the tour easy, but to get there, we must climb several hundred stairs. Interestingly, we have mobile phone coverage throughout the route.

Lunch is served at the tour center located by a small lake.

After lunch, we take a zip line to transfer to the other side to the Dark Cave. However, we first leave all valuables in lockers, as we are in for quite a few swims. At the entrance to the cave, we put on mining helmets with lights and enter the darkness with a guide. We move through the muddy floor, often sliding on our backsides. At the end of the cave, the biggest attraction awaits us, which is a swim in the mud lake. We return completely covered in mud and must wash off in the lake, after which we paddle back to the tour center in small rowboats.

We can also take a ride on the zip lines that drop us in the middle of the lake, allowing us to swim back to the shore.

In the evening, we are back at the hotel in Phong Nha and wait for the sleeper bus to Hue.

Sleeper Bus to Phong Nha

From Tam Coc, we drove about 15 km to Ninh Binh - the capital of the region. Even before departing from Poland, we booked a night sleeper bus from Ninh Binh to Phong Nha National Park.

Traveling by such a bus should be regarded as a tourist attraction. Additionally, we save on hotel accommodation and travel time to the next destination. However, we had quite a surprise when it turned out that part of the group had no reservation and no seats on the bus. We decided that in this situation, none of us would go, and we would look for another means of transport. This caused quite a stir among the bus staff and the owners of Ninh Binh Central Hotel coordinating the trips. After 2 hours of phone calls, we managed to locate our reservation and payment, and the bus was still waiting for us.

We brought a dozen or so 100 ml bottles of our best drinks from Poland for potential gifts. And this is where they came in handy; we handed a few of them to everyone involved in helping us.

The sleeper bus is equipped with three rows of double-decker bunks and essentially carries the same number of passengers as a standard bus of that size. At the entrance, everyone receives a plastic bag to put their shoes in because we walk barefoot on the bus. The bunks are short, so we lie with our legs curled up, but we can buckle up with seat belts. Sleeping is rather out of the question; the driver honks constantly, and more passengers arrive at each stop. As a result, the aisles between the bunks are clogged with additional passengers and crying children.

We arrive in Phong Nha at 4 in the morning after a sleepless night, but it was worth it. In a small hotel, we had previously rented a room to leave our luggage and wash up after the night journey. In the morning, we had breakfast there and booked a tour of the national park and an evening bus to Hue.

At the same travel agency in Hanoi, we booked a bus ride to Tam Coc for the next day. A characteristic feature of long-distance bus drivers is their constant use of the horn. Unlike in other countries, this is understood as a normal warning for other road users.

The seats in the buses do not have seat belts, and they drive really fast and with flair. You have to position yourself well, secure your luggage, and hold onto the handles to avoid falling.

On the roads, we encounter scooters loaded like small trucks (a family with two children, a driver, and three dogs sitting independently on the feet and back seat, stacks of cages with chickens, bundles of sugarcane). However, accidents happen very rarely - during our trip, we only saw one minor collision.

Tam Coc

Tam Coc, which means three caves, is a UNESCO World Heritage site like Ha Long Bay, located in the valley of the Ngô Đồng River, winding through rocks and rice fields.

Over the valley stands the Bích Động temple complex, built in 1428. We ascend to the highest one via 500 steps carved into the rock. The effort is worth it because the view of the valley is worth the calories burned.

We book a boat trip on the Ngô Đồng River on site. The boats are operated by women who row with their feet and do so with great skill. During the journey, we pass through caves, and at the end of the route, we can make small purchases from stalls set up on the boats. This is essentially a mandatory part of the program, and our boatwoman encourages us to buy something for her as well.

Surrounding us are rice fields, their lush green dazzling to the eyes. The entire area is a photographer's dream.

Ha Long Bay

One of the most spectacular places, a hallmark of Vietnam and a must-see on every travel guide. Films "Indochine" 1992 and "Kong: Skull Island" 2017 were shot here. Life in the bay revolves around boats as most of the islets with steep cliffs are essentially inaccessible.

In travel agencies in Hanoi, there are several tour options available including overnight stays on boats. We chose a one-day visit. Usually, the weather in the bay is not very pleasant - it is foggy and often rains. Even in summer, it is advisable to pack a warm sweater and a raincoat.

The tour program includes a bus ride from Hanoi, boarding a boat, and cruising around the most interesting spots, including Dau Go Island with the largest cave of the same name. And another islet with a rowing boat trip to Luon Cave. On the boat, lunch is included in the cost. In the evening, we return by bus to Hanoi.

There are opinions that the bay is becoming too crowded and dirty. Night parties on the boats do not allow for rest at nearby anchorages. A one-day stay does not allow for a conclusive assessment.

In any case, Ha Long enchanted us with its mystery and stunning views. It is a must-see when in Vietnam.

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the parade square is one of the few relics of communism. Right next to it is the Presidential Palace with a collection of cars used by the leader.

The Hoa Lo Prison, built in the late 19th century by the French, was considered the harshest in all of Indochina. During the Vietnam War, it held downed American pilots.

Night street markets can be found in every major city in Vietnam. They offer a great opportunity for shopping, from souvenirs and clothing to excellent replicas of the best watches. Bargaining is a must.

The wooden bridge on Hoan Kiem Lake leading to the Jade Temple makes an incredible impression after dark. Visiting the temple is only possible during the day and costs 30,000 Dong.

The golden turtle visible in the earlier photo was, according to legend, pulled from the lake. It gifted the emperor with a wonderful sword, thereby saving the capital from the invasion of the Chinese. Turtles are considered sacred creatures in Buddhism. The graves of monks in the Temple of Literature are shaped like powerful turtles, larger the more distinguished the deceased.

Train Street no longer has the same charm as it once did, as it has been stripped of movable stalls that were closed during train passes. However, it remains a must-see on the sightseeing map.

I imagined the water theater as a performance staged on a lake, but it is actually located on the upper floor of a building in downtown Hanoi. The actors behind a transparent curtain control puppets moving across the surface of a closed swimming pool using long rods. The wooden strings are submerged in water, creating an incredible effect of smooth puppet movement.

Everything would have been beautiful if it weren't for our fatigue, the mournful Vietnamese music (played and sung live), and the dim lighting. For a good hour, we struggled against sleep and woke each other up with nudges. However, we were not the only ones in the audience, so that was some consolation.

Travel plan

We had two weeks at our disposal and tried to devise a travel plan to traverse the whole country from north to south. Our arrival and departure were from Hanoi, so we had to make use of domestic flights. We recommend Vietnam Airlines, which has a fleet of modern airplanes. The map on the left shows the route taken from Hanoi to Da Nang and flights to Ho Chi Minh and back to Hanoi.

We covered two segments of the journey by night sleeper bus.

Hanoi

Ha Long Bay

Tam Coc

Ninh Binh

Phong Nha

Hue

Da Nang

My Son

Ba Na Hills

Hoi An

Ho Chi Minh

Cu Chi Tunnels

Mekong River Delta

Hanoi

Hanoi

The capital of Vietnam greeted us with quite a cool aura (around 20 degrees Celsius). We were also tired from the flight and the 5-hour time difference, so we walked around the city in warm jackets. We had to book a full-day trip to Ha Long Bay and a bus ride to Tam Coc. That was the plan for the next 3 days.

What to see in Hanoi?

- Water puppet theater

- Hoan Kiem Lake and Jade Temple

- Hoa Lo Prison

- Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Presidential Palace

- Train Street

- Temple of Literature

- Old Town

- Night market.

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What you should know before flying to Vietnam

If you want to start your adventure with the Far East on your own, begin with Vietnam. It is a very safe country where you can walk through the alleys of large cities at night without fear of being approached by someone. The absence of drugs, organized crime, robberies, and drunken brawls is likely a result of the constant state control over citizens. Here, I must delve a bit into history.

The Socialist Republic of Vietnam, as the official name of the country goes, is a rare case of a successful combination of two conflicting ideologies. At least that is the impression it gives to tourists spending a few weeks there.

As a result of the Geneva Accords of 1954, Vietnam was divided into the northern - communist (Democratic Republic of Vietnam) and southern - democratic (Republic of Vietnam). The armed conflict that lasted from 1955 to 1975 involved the entire socialist and capitalist blocs. The war ended with the victory of the north and the unification of the country.

In 2020, we did not see symbols of socialism, portraits of leaders, or slogans urging women to work as tractor drivers on the streets. Instead, in home gardens or on car dashboards, there stood a cheerful statue of Buddha.

The currency in use, DONG, has a very favorable exchange rate for us. 10,000 Dong is about 1.7 PLN. On the other hand, you can hardly buy anything for 10,000 Dong. A bottle of milk costs 34,000 Dong, which is about 6 PLN. A Banh Mi sandwich - a great breakfast from a street stall, costs about 30,000 Dong, which is just under 5 PLN. A full-day trip from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay costs 700,000 Dong (just under 120 PLN).

The two main airports are Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh (formerly Saigon). We do not have a direct connection from Warsaw, so we need to make transfers, and the cost of travel will be the biggest expense. A good idea is to fly into Hanoi and return from Ho Chi Minh or vice versa. This will allow for planning a trip across the entire country, which is a narrow strip of land between the mountains and the South China Sea.

On the website https://travel-online.org/vietnam/, we submit a visa application with the required document copies before departure. Usually, we receive an electronic visa within a week. We need to print it in several copies as it may be checked during our stay in hotels. Also, scan the main page of your passport and take several copies with you. Do not leave the original passport at hotel receptions - a copy is accepted.

Upon arrival, we must buy a local mobile operator's SIM card at the airport (Internet access without the need for calls). I have not encountered such well-functioning mobile Internet anywhere in Europe. I assume that each of you uses some messaging app on your phone. Even if you get separated from the group while sightseeing, you can call each other via WhatsApp or Messenger.

The second essential app is GRAB (the equivalent of our UBER). With it, you will save a lot, starting from the ride from the airport to the hotel. GRAB drivers in Vietnam use special models of Toyota Innova, which can carry 7 people, so even a larger group will fit.

In Vietnam, you travel using local transport, utilizing local travel agencies available on every major street. In smaller towns, the hostel owner will help you. Forget about renting a car - even crossing a street with traffic lights will be a challenge for you in the first few days. The rule is "chest forward, eye pale," meaning you boldly step into the street on red and walk at a steady pace - they will avoid you. Any hesitation will lead to disaster.

We eat exclusively on the streets, which may seem risky due to the ubiquitous insects and low hygiene standards. But that's how the locals eat, and we are guaranteed that everything is fresh. Meals in restaurants (even chain ones) carry a much greater risk of food poisoning. Street food is really delicious, from Banh Mi sandwiches to traditional Pho soups.

The legacy of colonialism is the Latin alphabet, which makes it easier to navigate the country. The signs are readable for us, and English is fairly universal. Poles, as former allies of northern Vietnam, are treated very well. At the mention of Bolanda (Poland), we see smiles on the faces of security guards in night markets. There is no visible police on the streets, but every ATM, pharmacy, and market is guarded 24 hours.

ATMs are available even in smaller towns visited by tourists, as are currency exchange points. It's worth bringing some cash reserves (USD) as a safety net accepted everywhere despite the previous animosity.

During the tour, we do not stray from the designated paths. The consequence of the 20-year conflict is millions of unexploded ordnance littering the jungle. Since the end of the war, official statistics report several thousand deaths. Only in 2022 did the international organisation "Mines Advisory Group (MAG)" remove over 15,000 unexploded ordnance.

VIETNAM

February 2020

travel memories and a few practical tips