Thanks

Special thanks to our caretaker and guide in northern Thailand. Without Mr. Due's help, it would have been difficult to navigate between the temples in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. Thanks to him, we also visited the elephant sanctuary and the "Golden Triangle." You can contact Mr. Due via FB: Pisitsak Bourchum.

Further thanks to the owner of Khao Sok Hill Top Resort. Our short stay was fully successful thanks to her commitment to organizing transport and the trip to Ratchaprapha Lake.

Our recommendations

- walk the streets of Khao San and Patpong in Bangkok

- temples Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Arun in Bangkok

- street food (everywhere)

- trip to Cambodia (Angkor temples and floating villages)

- Pinnacle Lumpinee Park Hotel (Bangkok)

- Laemsai Resort (Phuket)

- Khao Sok Hill Top Resort (great logistical support)

- Khao Sok National Park and tour on Ratchaprapha Lake

- sleeper train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai

- Wat Sri Suphan (silver temple) in Chiang Mai

- Wat Rong Khun (white temple) in Chiang Rai

- "Golden Triangle" at the border

- visit to an elephant sanctuary (a real one)

What is worth eating?

And here begins the problem because everything is delicious. Street food stalls offer a composition of unique flavors and aromas, so we don't fill up completely; rather, we buy small portions of different dishes frequently.

- Pad Thai (stir-fried noodles with optional add-ins - can be vegetarian or with meat)

- Hot Pot (broth in which we choose our add-ins and cook them on the spot)

- Tom Yum Kung (spicy and sour soup with herbs and shrimp, often served in a distinctive heated bowl)

- Yum Nua (spicy beef salad)

- Pad Kra Pao Moo (stir-fried minced meat with herbs)

- Grill with broth (a special set with a grilling plate surrounded by water that collects fat from grilled dishes - this is how the broth is made to which we add vegetables)

- Morning glory (salad made from stir-fried water spinach)

- grilled pieces of meat (chicken, beef, pork, seafood) served on skewers

- grilled fish and seafood

- Tom Yum fish soup

- Chi Tea, Masala chai (strong black tea served with milk, sweetened with honey, molasses, or sugar, with added cardamom, ginger, and cloves).

Taking photos inside the temple built in 1782 is prohibited and strictly enforced. It is famous for the 66 cm tall statue of Buddha made of green jasper, dating back to the 15th century. Depending on the season, the statue is dressed in one of three robes. The ceremony for changing the attire is personally conducted by the king. The robes are woven with golden threads and adorned with diamonds and other precious stones. The walls of the temple are decorated with frescoes depicting scenes from the life of the prophet.

Chiang Rai

The last city in our travel plan, but there are still surprises waiting for us from Mr. Due. We are focusing on the two most famous temples, without visiting which a trip to the north would be meaningless.

Chiang Mai

The northern part of the country is definitely cheaper when it comes to accommodations. The main attractions are the temples, some of which are in the city center, but one requires a drive to reach. We also plan to visit the elephant sanctuary and travel to Chiang Rai. There, the most beautiful temples are scattered within 20 km from the center. Logistics thus pose a significant challenge as we only have 3 days in total. Upon exiting the station, we look for a limousine and our savior from all troubles appears. Mr. Due offers help with transportation and organizing the sightseeing. Initially, we approach the topic cautiously, so for now, just a ride to the hotel. On the way, we discuss what we want to see. At the hotel, we check the prices of local tours, and Mr. Due promises to present a calculation, adding tourist attractions that we missed in our plan. Just an hour later, we know we hit the jackpot. The price for the tour, which also includes transportation to the airport on the 4th day, is very reasonable, and we begin our adventure at the elephant sanctuary.

Express number 13

Landing in Bangkok on time, and I must commend Thai Airways. The domestic flights lasted just under 2 hours, but unlike airlines in Europe, they served warm sandwiches, coffee, tea, a piece of chocolate, and water - well done.

Limousine and transfer to Krung Thep Aphiwat train station. We have tickets picked up in advance, so there's plenty of time before the train departs. The station is three times the size of Warsaw Okęcie airport  and has about 40 platforms. You can wander around the underground for a few hours - there's air conditioning, souvenir and clothing shops, bars with great food. The free restrooms smell fresh and are spotless. Screens provide information about trains and directions to platforms. And here comes the shock - the station operates like an airport. "Boarding" for the train happens under the platform. Escalators are waiting, gates are closed, 20 minutes to departure, and there's a crowd of people with suitcases.

The "priority" gate opens, the display above the stairs shows the carriage numbers and directions on the stairs left-right. Monks enter first, followed by elderly people, mothers with children, and large luggage. Try to push through, and you'll end up at the end of the line, which stands in neat pairs like geese. Everything is monitored by a camera and station staff.

You bring your ticket close to the code reader, and the gate opens, leading to the platform, and shock. Not only is the carriage in the designated spot, but the platform is empty because only passengers for this train have been allowed in.

I apologize for going on about the organization, but for those using PKP services at Warsaw Central Station, it shows how it can be done well.

Khao Sok

Khao Sok National Park is located in the jungle around Ratchaprapha Lake. We lose our way several times, the limousine struggles to climb up the hills on dirt paths, but we manage to reach Khao Sok Hill Top Resort.

Phuket

A night in a hotel in Bangkok and waking up at dawn because the flight to Phuket won't wait. Half of the trip is already gone, and the plan is to relax on the beach.

You can take a boat to further islands, but the boats run irregularly. If you plan to stay for two days, it's a waste of time. The western coast of the island has the most beautiful beaches, but also the highest hotel prices, more people, and (sorry) the "favorite neighbors" from across the border - Cyrillic signs are mandatory in every store.

We are staying in a small bay on the eastern side. Disadvantages - there is no beach and swimming is not advisable. Advantages - a hotel with a pool, no people, peace, and two affordable eateries. The host is super helpful, and you can arrange any tour.

A Grab ride to the beach takes 30 minutes and costs 100 THB per person.

Cambodia

Before traveling to Cambodia, you need to submit a visa application in advance (about 2 weeks) via the website https://www.evisa.gov.kh. We attach a scan of our passport and a scan of our passport photo. For the destination, we can enter Siem Reap and for the entry point, Poi Pet. A single-entry tourist visa costs 30 USD. After receiving the visa, we print it in two copies for entry and exit.

The cost of a two-day tour is about 350 USD. This amount includes transportation from the hotel in Bangkok to the hotel in Siem Reap both ways, accommodation in a 4-star hotel with breakfast, a guide's assistance, transfers in Cambodia to Tonle Sap Lake, a boat trip to the floating village, a trip to Angkor Wat, and temple tours.

We managed to secure one room in our hotel in Bangkok, where we left the luggage of the entire group. To Cambodia, we took only small backpacks with essentials for two days. The limousine was supposed to be at 6:00 AM, but due to traffic, it was almost an hour late. Fortunately, the driver called the reception because we were already assuming that the money was lost and that we had been scammed. We made up for lost time on the way as we sometimes drove at 140 km/h.

Crossing the border happens in quite an original way. We exit the car, the guide leads us to the pedestrian crossing, takes our photo, and leaves us. We cross the border on our own. On the other side, another guide is waiting, who in the meantime received an SMS with our photo. We are intercepted and packed into a second minivan, which we use to travel around Cambodia. The journey one way takes about 7 hours with a lunch break. Checking into the hotel and after 30 minutes, we head to the lake. Return late in the evening and time to wander through the night markets. On the second day, wake-up at 7:00 AM, breakfast, check-out from the hotel. Transfer to Angkor Wat, temple tours, lunch, and transport back to Bangkok, where we arrive at 10:00 PM.

Note: In Cambodia, we pay for everything in USD or Euro. There are currency exchange offices, so we can ultimately exchange money for Rials, but prices at markets, shops, and restaurants are also quoted in dollars, which is the most preferred currency accepted from tourists.

The Angkor temple complex is the hallmark of Cambodia, even featured on the national flag. It is the largest religious monument in the world, covering an area of 163 hectares. Contrary to popular belief, the structures dating back to the 12th century were never forgotten and were rediscovered in the jungle by modern archaeologists. Initially dedicated to Hinduism, they were later transformed into Buddhist temples. A monk monastery is located nearby the main temple, where religious life is continuously cultivated.

A day ticket included in the tour costs 37 USD. At the tourist center, a photo is taken of us, which is printed on the ticket. We also receive a map of the temples, which we drive to by car. The photo on the ticket is a good solution - one person from our group left the ticket in the car. The guide showed the proof of purchase at the entrance. The ticket numbers and photos were checked in the computer system. Thanks to this, a person without a ticket was also allowed in. We managed to visit 3 temples, starting with the largest one featuring characteristic towers (the tallest is 65 meters high).

The Angkor Wat temple is built on a plan of concentric squares separated by courtyards. On the outer wall, over 900 meters long, a stone "arras" has been carved, depicting more than 20,000 figures illustrating battle scenes, court life, and Indian epics. The entire complex is surrounded by a moat and a low wall shaped like a snake. At the entrances in the wall, we pass a tail on one side and a head on the other. Not everywhere did medieval builders finish their work - there are smooth wall sections that are not covered with reliefs. Weather conditions and nature have caused much damage over the centuries; the original paints have essentially been completely washed off the surfaces of laterite rocks. It is hard to imagine how magnificent the painted temple must have looked. Some of the inner courtyards served as water cisterns, where supplies were collected during the rainy season. Water is essential for maintaining ground stability. If it weren't for the moat and water tanks, the temple would have long been consumed by the sandy substrate.

Tonle Sap Lake is the largest body of water on the Indochinese Peninsula. The other shore is not visible even in the dry season. The area changes from 2,500 to 15,000 square kilometers, and the depth ranges from 0.2 to 14 meters. It is connected to the Mekong River by the Tonle River. During the rainy season, the river changes direction and flows upstream, pushing Mekong waters into the lake. Along with them, fish enter, making it the most fish-populated body of water on the peninsula. In the photo on the left, a gate indicates the water level. The posts are halfway brown, which was the water level during the rainy season - it reached the floor of the house built on stilts.

Floating villages are the safest solution. It is estimated that tens of thousands of people live there, with about 3,000 in the one we visited. The houses float on floats made from barrels. Each family has several boats used for shopping deliveries. Electricity is provided by batteries, and there is also a grocery store, a church, a gas station, and a school. Shops selling souvenirs and restaurants are being established specifically for tourists. In addition to fish, frogs and crocodiles are also raised. Each house also has a toilet, with waste going straight into the lake. Right next to it, we see a woman brushing her teeth and rinsing her mouth with the same water. The houses are moored with ropes to wooden anchorage points. The deceased are cremated on a pyre, and only the ashes are kept, as burial in the ground is impossible due to flooding.

Ganesh - the god of success, career, happiness, and intellect, has had his artifacts exhibited in a dedicated golden pavilion.

Sometimes we manage to persuade the local beauties to take a photo together.

And no museum would be ashamed of such a golden toilet visible in the picture on the left.

All kinds of ghastly apparitions are an inseparable part of the decor in Buddhist temples.

We essentially have the whole day at our disposal since the flight to Poland is not until 2 AM the next day. Among the plans we had left is the Wat Pho temple (Reclining Buddha). The origins of the complex's construction are unknown, but its major expansion occurred at the end of the 17th century - making it one of the oldest in Bangkok. In addition to the most impressive temple with the 47-meter-long reclining Buddha statue, the monastery is famous for its traditional Thai medicine and massage school. Most tourists focus on the reclining Buddha, but it's worth walking around the entire monastery, which is usually not crowded and has plenty of beautifully decorated stupas. The entrance fee is 300 THB.

Last day - the morning flight from Chiang Rai to Bangkok takes about an hour. We leave our luggage at the airport's storage. In the departure hall, we will find it on the 4th floor, costing 150 THB per piece of luggage.

The view of Myanmar is quite nice, and despite the relatively low height, many people are afraid of moving on the glass surfaces and cling tightly to the railings.

The next attraction is a wax figure museum combined with "works of art." While the figures of the most famous Buddhist monks command respect for their craftsmanship, the other sculptures are somewhat amusing in their kitschiness.

The next item on the agenda is a visit to "Skywalk" on the border with Myanmar (the new name for Burma is hard to swallow). A tourist attraction of the amusement park type, in shades of purple, the colors of the Queen of Thailand.

The entrance ticket costs 50 THB, we receive elegant purple shoe covers and can access the glass platforms stretched across the hillside.

In 2007, the government of Laos established a special economic zone in collaboration with the Chinese company Kings Romans. The area, covering about 3,000 hectares, was leased for a period of 99 years for the construction of casinos and hotel facilities used by Chinese gamblers. This has raised significant controversy among the international community due to suspicions of human trafficking, drug trafficking, and organized crime.

On the other side of the Mekong, Laos is visible, and Mr. Due assures us that a visit to the opposite bank is quite safe. So we take a boat to Laos, tempted by the prospect of visiting the markets in the duty-free zone. It seems to be a common practice because boats are crossing the river one after another, and no one seems to care. The shopping is quite successful, and after 3 hours, we safely return to Thailand.

Since each of the three countries had a different currency, it was easiest to settle trade transactions in gold, and that is supposedly where the name of the area came from.

Now the initiative is taken over by Mr. Due, who is taking us to the "Golden Triangle." This region at the border of Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), and Laos has been famous since the 19th century for opium poppy cultivation and opium production. Although cultivation is officially banned, it is very difficult to control the area at the mouth of the Ruak River into the Mekong. After the Taliban government imposed a cultivation ban in Afghanistan, the "Golden Triangle" became the world's leader.

Wat Rong Suea Ten, or the Blue Temple, is another contemporary building completed in 2016. It is the work of artist Phuttha Kabkaew, who studied under Chalermchai Kositpipat during the construction of the White Temple. It was funded by the local community on the site of the ruins of an abandoned old building. Admission is free.

The entrance ticket to the White Temple costs 100 THB, but it is only paid by foreigners. Donations are also welcome, but they cannot exceed 10,000 THB. Amounts above this are returned by the artist because he does not want anyone wealthy to influence the shape of his project.

From a distance, the temple looks as if it were made of porcelain. In reality, it is a white-painted concrete structure, with millions of mirrors embedded in its walls. Some parts of the building are not yet decorated and have smooth, raw walls.

On May 5, 2014, as a result of an earthquake, the structure suffered significant damage and it was initially planned to demolish it. After a thorough structural analysis, it was decided to repair the partially collapsed building, and it was reopened in 2016.

Wat Rong Khun (the White Temple) was designed and built by national artist Chalermchai Kositpipat in 1997. The original structure was at risk of collapsing and was not eligible for reconstruction. Chalermchai proposed to invest his own money in the demolition and construction of a new temple. To date, he has spent around 40 million THB, and he anticipates the project's completion by 2070.

You must definitely strike the gong and sign the golden ribbon (it probably gets washed later).

Located at an altitude of 1100 meters, 15 km from Chiang Mai, Wat Prathat Doi Suthep is a very important center of worship for the Thai people. It offers a beautiful view of the city situated in the valley. For the convenience of tourists, a ticket costing 30 THB includes a cable car ride for 20 THB (which is essentially mandatory). You can also climb the mountain via 309 steps.

Believers claim that the temple was built in 1383, but this has not been confirmed in any way. According to legend, a white elephant carried a piece of the Buddha's bone to the hill, trumpeted three times, and then died. To commemorate this event, King Nu Naone ordered the construction of the sanctuary.

Finally, a few more shots from the streets of Chiang Mai because in the morning we are heading to Chiang Rai, which is 240 km away. It may not seem far, but the travel time is almost 5 hours. Along the way, we will also visit Wat Prathat Doi Suthep.

In 1990, under the auspices of UNESCO and the Japanese government, the top of the pagoda was reconstructed; however, this sparked considerable controversy questioning the validity of the project and its final outcome. The historic temple is surrounded by newer buildings, with the most beautiful interior found in the front Wihan. We can only view the old temple from the outside, and the entrance ticket to the complex costs 40 THB, allowing access from 5:00 AM to 10:00 PM.

The Wat Chedi Luang complex deserves special attention. Construction began in the 14th century, but due to ground instability, it was completed only after 100 years. It stood 82 meters tall and had a diameter of 54 meters. After completion, a statue of the Emerald Buddha was placed inside. In 1545, a 30-meter peak of the pagoda collapsed due to an earthquake. Fortunately, the Buddha statue survived and was moved to a temple in Laos, where it remained for the next 214 years. It returned to Thailand (Siam) only in 1779 and ultimately found its way to a temple in Bangkok.

We spent the evening in Chiang Mai visiting various temples while appreciating the intricate telecommunication installations along the way.

In 2022, during heavy rains, the wooden structure could not withstand it and the roof of the pagoda collapsed. Many historical items hidden in the ceilings were discovered at that time. Fortunately, the pagoda was quickly reconstructed and today the temple looks just as beautiful as it did 500 years ago.

Wat Sri Suphan was built around the year 1500. Since the region is famous for its goldsmithing, the wooden structure is entirely covered with plates made of silver, nickel, and aluminum. Each plate is a work of art with patterns embossed in soft metal. Entry to the interior is closed to women, but there is still much to see from the outside. Admission costs 50 THB.

The main attraction of Chiang Mai is the Silver Temple. Since the entrance is open until 6:00 PM, after returning from the sanctuary, we set off on foot through the city. Along the way, we passed other temples, but time was pressing, so we couldn't enter every one.

The next step is a walk by the river and a joint bath. They really enjoy being washed, and in the end, they will thank you with trumpeting and a shower. We had to feed a grandmother around 60 years old, her daughter, and two grandchildren: a 9-year-old boy and a 12-year-old girl. The little ones already weighed about 1.5 tons, so there are no jokes during the bath. I didn't mention earlier that only males have tusks. We usually get to the site in off-road vehicles, and lunch is included in the price (total about 2000 THB per person). It's an interesting business because not only do we work with elephants, but we also have to pay for it. Our visit was included in Mr. Due's services.

During your visit, your task will be to prepare a meal, but before that, you must wash your hands thoroughly. All creams, deodorants, soaps, and mosquito sprays can cause serious illness, and treating an elephant is expensive. You will also receive special clothing because the elephant is always covered in mud, and it’s impossible to avoid getting dirty. Now let's head to the feeding - you can feed them with your trunk, but if you're feeling brave, they'll happily take a sandwich straight to their beak.

For centuries, they have been used for work because they are easy to tame, gentle, and intelligent. In the 20th century, they were the main driving force in the timber industry, transporting goods from mountainous forests logged by English companies. The Thai authorities eventually banned logging upon seeing the scale of devastation. Industrialization led to unemployment among elephants, and at present, they do no work. They are usually found in private breeding sanctuaries where their owners and tourists take care of them. The breeding area is not fenced, but the elephants get used to people and return to their ranch. They can cause damage, and then the owner must pay compensation.

The elephant is one of the symbols of the country and is held in great respect. It lives similarly to humans and can sometimes reach 100 years old. They are much smaller than African elephants, weighing an average of 3.5 tons. Females typically give birth to only one calf at a time, and the gestation period lasts 21 months. They move almost silently in hilly terrain, leaving no trace, and can reach speeds of up to 15 km/h. They are vegetarians, consuming 150 kg of plants daily. They eat roughly every hour and digest very quickly because their digestive system lacks a stomach! Note - elephant dung does not smell and looks like sawdust once it dries.

At 6:00, discreet scraping of the curtain. Did you order coffee? I get it unsweetened with milk, just as I said in the evening. At 7:00, movement and cleaning of the train begins. Two staff members walk through the carriage with bags. One takes off the dirty sheets, the other lays fresh bedding and makes the berths. In 10 minutes, the carriage is ready for sitting (I didn't mention, but there's a power connection in every sleeper). We've traveled about 800 km, can you guess the train's delay? Chiang Mai station, around 8:00 AM - the train arrives at the platform 30 seconds!!! late.

Once again, it's embarrassing to lie down in dirty clothes - everything is washed and smells nice (2nd class carriage). The train departs, and shortly after, a lady appears to take breakfast orders for the morning. A warm breakfast or just a snack, coffee and tea from 6:00 AM (we pay extra for that).

The stainless steel toilets may not look great, but you can brush your teeth and freshen up. There's also restaurant carriage but we don't feel like walking there. It might sound strange, but our whole group got a good night's sleep on the train for the first time since our visit to Thailand.

The initial chaos in the aisles can be quickly managed as everyone finds their sleeper berth and space for their luggage.

Was it worth the trip there for just one night? You have to judge for yourselves based on the photos. We really enjoyed it, and after a short night in the tent, we set off on the way back to Bangkok to catch the sleeper train to Chiang Mai.

The proximity of the toilets to the swimming area in the floating hotel effectively deterred us from swimming, even though the water looked inviting (additionally, the necessity of putting on a life jacket).

The owner of our boat doesn't speak English and is not particularly wealthy. However, he tries to be as helpful as possible and shows us with gestures what we should pay attention to. During a break, he picks aluminum drink cans from the trash bins. Wanting to appreciate his efforts, we give him a small tip at the end of the trip - he looks surprised and thanks us very much.

The boat dock is located near the dam, which is scheduled to open for the king's 60th birthday. There is a beautiful garden on the hill and the ruler's mausoleum. The entrance to the national park costs an additional 300 THB plus a 40 THB tax for using the dock.

Ratchaprapha Lake is another highlight of Thailand and it had to be included in our itinerary due to the views of limestone cliffs among which we cruise in a fast "long tail" boat. The trip lasts about 4 hours and, including transportation from the hotel, costs around 1000 THB per person. Our plan includes exploring a cave and a stop at a floating village with a break for swimming.

The previous name of Cheow Lan Lake was changed to Ratchaprapha in 1987 with the construction of the dam and the launch of the hydroelectric power plant. Mostly, it is an artificial lake with a significantly enlarged area caused by the damming of water on the Klong Saen River. Due to the construction, the village of Cheow Lan ceased to exist and 385 families were relocated, ensuring them compensation and new land for farming.

The owner is shocked that we came for just one night; we want to take a boat trip on the lake, and the next morning we need transportation to the airport in Phuket because we have a flight back to Bangkok. Despite such a tight schedule, everything gets sorted out. We have breakfast, and in the meantime, our apartments are ready, and transport arrives to take us to the lake. It’s over 40 km from the hotel.

Our apartment looks modest, but inside there are clean, fragrant sheets, electricity connection on a pole, lighting, and a fan in case it gets too warm. You just have to close the zippers to keep anything from getting in. A night in the jungle is an adventure in itself; the forest is alive, and you can hear the sounds of animals. It’s a bit scary to use the toilet. In the morning, we are greeted by the owner’s dog, and the food in the local kitchen is delicious. There is also a common area on the terrace by the reception and kitchen where you can sit at tables, eat, and share impressions from your visit.

The weather was really great, and we managed to relax a bit by spending the whole day by the sea. The water temperature allows you to linger in it for hours. Along the beach, there are plenty of food stalls - I especially recommend the fried fish. There’s also an opportunity to buy souvenirs, but due to the wealthy neighbors, the prices are quite high, making it hard to haggle. In the meantime, we are arranging accommodation in Khao Sok National Park, and our host is helping with transportation organization. A "limousine" is waiting for us at dawn the next day.

The last of the visited temples, Ta Prohm, has been completely taken over by nature. It was established at the turn of the 12th and 13th centuries as a university, where at times over 5,000 priests and assistants resided.

The massive roots of pumpkin and fig trees have literally grown into the walls of the temple. The age of the oldest trees is estimated to be over 500 years, with some exceeding 25 meters in height. The wood of the pumpkin trees is water-resistant and is used for building boats and underwater structures along the shores. The interference with the structure of the building is so significant that the death of a tree leads to the collapse of the building and the tree itself.

Kapok trees usually grow independently of the walls. Their delicate fibers (obtained from seeds) are used to make quilts and pillows, as well as toys for children. They have properties similar to cotton but contain up to 80% air, making them much lighter. They are definitely younger than the two previous species. They can live up to 80 years, but due to their very rapid growth, they can reach heights of up to 70 meters. After death, they turn to dust and leave no trace behind.

In 2001, the temple served as the setting for the film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider.

The rooms in the temple are quite cramped, connected by narrow winding corridors. Therefore, even though the building is small, we managed to lose the group, and gathering them took a good fifteen minutes.

For the first time during our travels, we encountered macaques here, despite Angkor's fame for them. Generally, they are calm and not afraid of humans, but it's best not to provoke or feed them. Often, these are monkeys raised by people as pets, and when they grow up, they are abandoned in the jungle. They are not accustomed to living in groups and cannot find food on their own. This poses a significant problem, causing aggression within natural wild groups.

Despite the generally poor condition, many wall reliefs have been preserved perfectly. They depict battle scenes, wrestling fighters (the first gambling establishments), figures of Buddha, students in school, and even a dinosaur.

The Banteay Kdei temple is in much worse condition due to mistakes made in the roof construction and poorer quality stone (it is made of sandstone). Unlike Angkor Wat, it was built on a plan of an elongated rectangle and has only two inner courtyards. It is also significantly smaller. From its inception until 1960, it was partially designated as a Buddhist monastery. The towers with powerful faces of Buddha are very characteristic.

The evening at the market in Siem Reap and dinner at a Khmer restaurant concluded the first day of our visit. I don't know where the food is better - in Thailand or Cambodia, because local dishes like Amok blew us away. The return to the hotel in a wild Tuk-tuk cost us 3 USD for 4 people.

After covering 11 km (that’s what my watch showed), a proper foot massage (150 THB) and a rest in the hotel pool are well-deserved before the next day.

This is one of the most iconic landmarks in Bangkok, whose images can be found in every travel agency advertisement. Illuminated at night, it looks even more beautiful than during the day. The temple has existed since the 17th century, but the central spire was only added in the early 19th century. There is disagreement about its height, with various sources stating it ranges from 67 to 87 meters.

It is impossible to enter the very top, but you can climb very steep stairs to the first terrace and walk around the tower. It is horrendously narrow, and you have to push through because traffic is not one-way, and everyone stops to take photos.

The walls are covered with pieces of porcelain and shells of porcelain crabs. Many young couples, as well as individuals, take their photoshoots here in traditional attire. The entrance fee is 200 THB.

Today we are set to visit another temple. Wat Arun is located on the other side of the Chao Phraya River, so we need to take the ferry which costs 15 THB.

The complex surrounded by a white wall also includes the royal palace and the offices of government institutions. After visiting the temple, the next part of the tour leads around the palace buildings, but we can only view them from the outside. It is less crowded here, and the architecture is equally magnificent.

The amount of architectural details, decorations, and colors is overwhelming, making it hard to focus on anything. When you find a spot on a bench, it's nice to sit for a moment and calmly admire the individual buildings without paying attention to the crowds.

You must also take a stroll down the most famous shopping street, Khao San. Here you'll find plenty of small restaurants, but you can also grab a bite from the portable street kitchens. Market stalls are set up from early morning - it's a great place to buy clothes and souvenirs. The charm is enhanced by the smell of burning marijuana and gentlemen discreetly handing out business cards for pleasure establishments.

On that day, we also learned about the advantages of river transport. In the old town center, it is often the fastest and cheapest option. The views from the Chao Phraya River allow you to see everything from a different perspective.

You can still hang a golden heart with wishes and move on, passing the workshops along the road. Prayer groups in front of temples are a common sight.

The lower hotel building with the golden dome was the filming location for The Hangover Part II in 2011 (photo on the left).

An interesting exhibit is the "computer-gambling" game visible on the left picture. Two mice were let into the maze, and bets were placed on which one would reach the central balcony first.

Golden Mountain Temple is the first of the temples on our route. It may be a bit monotonous, but Thailand is mainly about temples, nature, and cuisine. We were fully aware of this during the travel planning stage. We climb several hundred steps and make sure to ring the rows of bells along the way, which produce different sounds. We also have to hit the gong with the horoscope. I'm not quite sure how it works because usually, the mallet just dangles without indicating any sign? We enter the temple barefoot, and of course, women must cover their legs and shoulders. It's not always allowed to take photos inside. From the terrace at the top, we have an interesting view of modern Bangkok.

Patpong should be visited after dark because then the street becomes a night market. Shows in the "venues" basically run non-stop and we are encouraged to visit only by gentlemen. They are not pushy, handing out business cards and assuring us that their venue is the best. We absolutely will not encounter any ladies. The market offers everything including good food.

We arrived at the beginning of the Chinese New Year, so the district was particularly decorated. I recommend eating at local street restaurants. It is really delicious and inexpensive, but you won't be able to buy alcohol (even beer). Packaged durian fruit doesn't smell too much, but we still keep our distance.

Bangkok day three

We already feel like regulars and head out to the Grand Palace and the Wat Phra Kaew temple complex (Emerald Buddha). The earlier we start, the better, as it is a massive complex that takes several hours to explore (even a brief visit). Be prepared for crowds, which unfortunately takes away some of the enjoyment. Visiting hours are from 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM, and the ticket costs 500 THB. At the entrance, it's a good idea to grab a map and a brochure with the history of the various buildings.

Bangkok day two

Having become somewhat familiar with the realities, we started the day by booking a trip to Cambodia as the deadlines were approaching. The mobile internet was working well enough that we could do this while lounging on benches in the park.

Visiting the city usually includes a tour of the Jim Thompson House Museum. It may be very commercial, but we will learn about the principles of traditional construction and the organization of life in high society, see one of the largest collections of drawings depicting life in Thailand, and many historical exhibits gathered by the owner (entrance fee 200 THB).

Jim, who came from a wealthy American family, graduated from Princeton, the University of Pennsylvania, and West Point. In 1945, as an OSS agent (the predecessor of the CIA), he was stationed in Thailand. With good connections and a knack for business, he invested in the silk industry and became one of the largest entrepreneurs in the field. He dedicated part of his amassed fortune to collecting local art and preserving the traditions of the locals. He disappeared in 1967 during a trip to Malaysia. The case has not been resolved to this day.

Bangkok Day One

The flight from Doha lands around 6:00 AM - it seems we have the whole day for sightseeing. However, the formalities at the airport take over an hour, followed by buying and exchanging the SIM card in the phone and looking for transport to the city center. If we manage to reach the hotel before noon, it's a success (unless it's another visit and we have everything sorted out). Note: it's worth booking the hotel a day in advance, as otherwise, we won't get into the room until after 2:00 PM. After the journey, a shower awaits us, and we are hit by jet lag, so we move sluggishly, are hungry, and generally don't know where we are. From the plan for the first day, we manage to visit Patpong (the "red-light street") and Chinatown.

Bangkok

The capital of Thailand is a relatively young city - in the mid-18th century it was a tiny fishing village. Today, it is home to 15 million people, and nearly 6 million cars are registered, not including tuk-tuks, scooters, and motorcycles. It’s no wonder that the city is perpetually congested, with the fastest modes of transport being the elevated rapid transit BTR Skytrain, the MTR subway lines, and the water taxis that operate on the Chao Phraya River and canals.

The easiest way to get from the airport to the city center is by the BTR Skytrain. Tickets can be purchased from a vending machine or at a ticket counter, depending on the number of planned stops, costing between 15 to 60 THB. At many stations, you can transfer to the MTR subway, which has several lines, and ticket prices range from 21 to 71 THB.

A more expensive option is Grab, with its pickup point located in the parking lots directly across from the airport exit. Four people can reach the city center for 300 - 400 THB, but the driver will only take 2 suitcases. If you have more luggage, you will need to split into smaller groups of two. An additional fee for the highway will be added to the price.

With our large group, an alternative was a limousine. In the arrivals hall, you will find a "Limousine Service" desk. Please do not confuse it with a luxury "wedding" vehicle. A limousine in this context refers to a van, most often a Toyota Commuter, which can carry up to 10 people plus a substantial amount of luggage. The fare for a group to the center of Bangkok is around 1100 THB. An essential feature of the limousine is a 300-watt amplifier with powerful speakers and a ceiling adorned with dazzling neon lights.

In the city center, we also have water taxis available for about 40 THB and Tuk-tuks, which are the most expensive option (costing 300 THB per person and accommodating 3 passengers).

Travel Plan

We had a very tight schedule and at times I was afraid I had overdone it, but the group was very brave and well-organized. Two weeks allowed us to visit the planned places. Even in Poland, we bought tickets for 3 domestic flights with Thai Airways and a night sleeper train ride. Bangkok was our operational center, and the Thai flight tickets provided flights to Suvarnabhumi airport. Cheaper airlines use Don Muang airport. The distance between them is over 60 km, so it's worth considering logistics to avoid traveling through the congested city center.

We also bought tickets for the night train in Poland through the 12Go website: https://12go.com/en. Note: ticket collection takes place in Bangkok at the blue line metro station Chatuchak. It is over 12 km away from the train station, so it's better to pick up the tickets earlier. They are usually available 48 hours before departure, but you can contact customer service and ask for them to be prepared for an earlier date.

On site, we organized a two-day trip to Cambodia and a one-day trip to Khao Sok National Park. The latter was not a problem, but Cambodia was only accessible through the international operator Viator: https://www.viator.com. We could not find an office in Bangkok that could help organize such a trip.

Places visited:

- Bangkok

- Siem Reap in Cambodia via the Poi Pet border crossing

- boat trip on Tonle Sap lake in Cambodia and a visit to the floating village

- Angkor Wat temples in Cambodia

- Phuket

- Khao Sok National Park

- boat trip on Ratchapraha lake

- Chiang Mai

- Chiang Rai

- "Golden Triangle" with a short visit to the market in Laos

THAILAND

February 2025

Some practical information

The main cost of the trip is the airfare. We can choose from several carriers, but if the journey is to last a reasonable dozen hours, the options are Qatar, Emirates, Turkish Airways, and Finnair. It is rather doubtful that we will find anything below 1,000 Euro.

From May to October, it is the rainy season, so it is best to plan your visit for February, March, or April. Expect temperatures above 30 degrees and very high humidity, particularly oppressive in Bangkok. So, warm clothes are only for travel, and later sandals, something for your head, plus sunglasses. When hiking, it's good to take water with electrolytes, hand sanitizer (they always seem dirty), plasters for chafing, tissues, and something to cover your shoulders and legs (ladies at temple entrances).

The official currency THB (baht) is necessary in cash. You can hardly pay by card anywhere, but ATMs are very common in every major city. The standard commission is 220 THB, so we choose larger amounts. The current exchange rate of 1 THB = 0.12 PLN places our currency quite high. If you plan to visit the provinces, make sure to have cash in your wallet (a reasonable reserve is 10,000 THB per person).

A tourist visa is not required - they will stamp your passport at the airport. If you plan further trips within the country, it’s worth sorting some things out from Poland (flights, train travel). In the provinces, hotel owners will help with planning transfers, but this does not work in Bangkok where number of local travel agencies is limited.

Thailand is a constitutional monarchy, and state symbols and the royal family are held in high regard. At sunset, the national anthem is played, and national flags are lowered. At this moment, all residents stand still in the streets and rise from their seats in restaurants. It is worth respecting this custom - it will be well received.

You need to install the Grab app (the equivalent of our Uber) on your phone, which allows you to use cheap transport. You can also rely on public transportation services, but more on that shortly as it mainly concerns Bangkok.

Upon arrival, we exchange the SIM card in the phone for a local operator with internet access. The 7-Eleven store chain offers a highly recommended True 5G card for 30 days for only 200 THB. Unfortunately, it is usually unavailable at the airport. You can buy cards from other operators at kiosks, but for 700 THB. Sometimes there is no choice, and you have to opt for the more expensive one to be able to move around the city. We had no problems with 5G network coverage.

There are quite a few public toilets (parks, markets, visited monuments). Some are free, while others cost 3 THB. There is no toilet paper, but there are bidets like in most Asian countries, so disposable tissues brought in your backpack come in handy.

We eat on the street or at markets. The food is excellent and relatively inexpensive. For 200 THB, you can have a good meal. A small skewer on a stick to eat "on the go" costs 10 THB. You can choose from chicken, pork, and beef. There are few fresh vegetables, but plenty of fruits and juices. Usually, sellers will ask if you want it spicy (every local knows a few basic words in English). At the markets, we have illustrative boards with menu information, so we just provide a number.

When it comes to other purchases at the markets, bargaining is a must. We probably won't get down to half, but 30% is usually achievable. If we see a written offer stating: one t-shirt costs 300 THB, but for two, you pay 250 THB each, and for three, 200 THB each, we probably won't be able to bargain anything (you can pool together with a few people and buy three t-shirts together - this works even with randomly met people ready to buy).