What is worth eating (and drinking)?

- grilled or baked sardines

- mussels cooked in white wine

- Cataplana of fish and seafood - fish and seafood stew

- Grilled Robalo - grilled sea bass

- shrimp fried in oil with garlic and herbs

- grilled octopus with roasted potatoes

- Pasteis - puff pastry tarts with custard filling

- white or red Porto

- white or red Sangria in a liter carafe with fruits

Our recommendations

- Lisbon's Thieves Market

- Belem, Monument to the Discoveries in Lisbon

- elevators and historic trams in Lisbon

- Oceanarium in Lisbon

- Sintra (Millionaire's Palace and Pena Palace)

- Cabo da Roca

- church and home of the Franciscan order in Porto

- Clerics Church and "Blue Church" in Porto

- train station in Porto

- Lello bookstore in Porto

Lisbon, Sintra, Porto

August 2017, October 2020, June 2022

Fado - a genre of music that originated in the 19th century in the Lisbon neighborhood of Alfama. It is referred to as the Portuguese blues, as it is typically melancholic, performed by a single vocalist accompanied by two guitars. Lisbon Fado can be sung by either a man or a woman. Coimbra Fado is sung only by men. In 2011, it was inscribed on the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage. The genre is known and performed exclusively in Portugal, although in Japan, a few artists perform Fado in Japanese. Experts consider this to be a desecration.

We still have a walk around the town of Sintra itself, full of narrow alleys, souvenir shops, and restaurants. After a whole day of sightseeing, it's a great opportunity to enjoy traditional Portuguese dishes and relax before returning to Lisbon. Along the way, we pass the iconic National Palace with its impressive chimneys and the town hall built in 1906.

At the exit of the Millionaire's Palace, we will find the bus stop for line 434, which can take us to the Pena Palace and back to Sintra. The ticket price is 7.60 Euros.

The Pena Palace is another attraction in Sintra. Designed and built by a German engineer and amateur architect Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwegein in 1847 at the request of King Ferdinand II. The palace was intended to be a summer residence for the royal family. The architect was partially inspired by German castles located along the Rhine. The mixture of many architectural styles and the amateur approach to the design resulted in an interesting effect of chaos. The palace resembles the Neuschwanstein Castle built by Ludwig II in Bavaria in 1869 (famous from Disney animated films).

The palace is situated on a hill, so we have to climb a bit from the bus stop, but at the same time, we explore the palace park full of exotic vegetation. The entrance ticket costs 14 Euros. From the palace, we have a view of the neighboring hills, where the ruins of the Moorish castle are located, which I did not reach despite two visits to Sintra.

We return to the center of Lisbon by metro in the opposite direction and get off at Rossio Square. We can spend the evening wandering around the Baixa and Bairro Alto districts.

4. Trip to Sintra and Cabo da Roca

The easiest way to get to Sintra is by suburban train from Rossio station. On weekdays, trains run every 20 minutes, and the journey takes about 40 minutes. Since we have a very busy day ahead, we need to leave Lisbon as early as possible. A round-trip ticket costs about 6 Euros and can be purchased online or at the automatic ticket machines at the station.

Upon arriving in Sintra, we transfer to bus 1624 (which replaced the bus 403 that operated until 2023) to reach Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of the European mainland. We buy a ticket for 4.5 Euros from the driver. The bus ride takes about 35 minutes and departs from the Portela de Sintra terminal, which we must walk to from the train station (about 15 minutes). We can also choose bus 1253 that departs directly from the train station, but the journey takes a bit longer, making it a comparable alternative when considering the walk to the Portela de Sintra terminal.

The attraction at Cabo da Roca is the several dozen-meter-high cliffs and stunning views. Let's not risk going beyond the barriers to take a "selfie." Occasionally, fatal accidents happen there because the edges of the cliff are not stable. There is a small museum in the lighthouse where we can obtain a personalized certificate of our stay at the cape for a small fee. The A4 diploma is hand-calligraphed with a goose quill by an official and sealed with wax. You can also grab a bite to eat and buy souvenirs here. A walk along the cliffs will take you about an hour, so after 3 hours, you'll be back in Sintra.

Sintra is a small town, but due to its four castles-palaces and charming old town, it serves as a vibrant tourist center.

Most visitors first head to the Palace of the Millionaire - it can be reached on foot from the center.  The owner of the palace and the surrounding park was the Brazilian merchantAntónio Augusto Carvalho Monteiro.

In 1893, he purchased the former estate of the Baroness de Regaleira and hired Italian architect and set designer Luigi Manini to build a palace and park. The park was intended as a labyrinth for children to play in daily. It features underground passages, galleries, wells, and lakes. Construction took 14 years and, admittedly, is impressive, even for adults. Visiting the park is Sintra's biggest attraction, and be prepared to wait in line for an hour for tickets. A standard ticket costs €10. Note: the entrance closes at 6:00 PM, even on the longest summer days.

The Nations Park, where the Oceanarium is located, is an area prepared for the World Expo '98. The old industrial areas have been completely redeveloped and now serve as a commercial and entertainment center. There is also a new marina and a modern residential complex.

Along the Tagus River, a cable car has been built, offering views of the Vasco da Gama Bridge. Constructed in 1998, it stretches over 17 km and is the longest bridge in Europe. A walk can also be taken along the cable car line - during the summer months, it gets very hot in the cabins, making the ride less appealing.

3. Trip to the Oceanarium and Parque das Nações (Park of Nations)

I suggest taking the metro from the station at Rossio Square. We can go down from Bairo Alto via the Elevador da Gracia or Santa Lucia. We board the green metro line towards Telheiras and at the Alameda station, we transfer to the red line Vm towards the Airport. We get off at Cabo Ruivo station, from where it's just a few steps to the Oceanarium.

A ticket for an adult costs 25 Euros, and it's best to buy it in advance online to avoid wasting time standing in line. Inside the Oceanarium, we wander around the gigantic main aquarium with a capacity of 5 million liters. Adjacent to it are smaller aquariums, ponds, and pools, where we can find mammals, amphibians, reptiles, and plants. In the outdoor section, we have open pools with birds and mammals.

I won't go into too much detail, as this is something you need to see for yourself. Instead of a comment, I’ll include some photos, and you can decide for yourselves if it's worth going on this trip.

Miradouro - a lookout point. Located in the highest parts of the city, these spots guarantee the most beautiful views, shelter from the heat among the trees, and fast food with snacks and drinks. They are perfect places for a short rest during our trips.

We return to Bairro Alto by walking along the Tagus River to the Markado da Ribeira market that we passed on the first day. We can do some grocery shopping and take the Bica elevator up.

If we head right from the Thieves' Market towards the Tagus, we will reach the bones of Santa Engrácia, which houses the National Pantheon of Portugal.

Since we are on the eastern hills of old Lisbon, before descending, we must pass through the castle hill of Castello and view St. George's Castle, built by the Moors on the ruins of a Roman fortress. It was captured in 1147 by King Afonso I the Conqueror and, after the capital was moved to Lisbon, it became the seat of the court. It was extensively rebuilt over the following centuries and at the height of its glory had 77 towers, 34 entrance gates, and the length of the defensive wall was 5.5 km. At the beginning of the 16th century, the castle began to decline due to the relocation of the royal court to the palace by the Tagus. During the union with Spain, the castle housed barracks and a prison. Reconstruction only started in the 20th century. The entrance ticket costs 15 Euros.

From the castle, we have a beautiful view of all of Lisbon and the Tagus, and descending towards it, we will reach the Se Cathedral. The construction of the cathedral on the ruins of the Moorish mosque began in 1147 and lasted for over 100 years. It regained its current shape only at the beginning of the 20th century after many destructions during the earthquake. The entrance ticket costs 5 Euros.

Azulejo - ceramic tiles covered with glaze. They are most often square-shaped, featuring geometric or floral motifs. They were used to cover the facades of buildings and to decorate interior walls. Over time, entire compositions of historical scenes were created from them, consisting of several thousand tiles.

The technique of production was brought to the peninsula by the Moors and perfected over the centuries. In Spain and Italy, tile production gradually evolved into an industry. In Portugal, it is still regarded as an artistic craft. Tiles from demolitions are sold at markets, and experts can assess the production period. The price of some individual tiles can reach several dozen Euros.

It is worth buying a few cheaper pieces, which work excellently as coasters for hot dishes.

2. Trip to Alfama and Castello.

It's worth planning a visit to this part of the city for Saturday because that's when the Thieves' Market (Feira da Ladra) takes place at Campo de Santa Clara. We must head out in the morning to catch the best shopping opportunities. Generally, it's an antiques market, but you can find the most interesting souvenirs, CDs and vinyl records, ceramic tiles (azulejo) from house demolitions, folk crafts, and delicacies of Portuguese cuisine. You should carry cash and be cautious with wallets and documents due to pickpockets. I've been there twice and haven't met anyone who got robbed. The bad reputation is linked to the market's past when illegal transactions were common.

The fastest way to get there from Bairro Alto is by the historic tram 28, which stops at the upper station of the Bica elevator. We pass through the Chiado district and next to the Se cathedral to get off at the stop by the Monastery of St. Vincent. If you find a moment, I recommend entering the 17th-century church. Following the narrow passage along the left side of the church, we will reach the market.

Alfama is the oldest district of Lisbon, which served as the city center during the Moorish period. After the reconquest, wealthier residents moved to the new districts of Chiado and Baixa. Alfama remained as a refuge for the poor, mainly fishermen, and survived the great earthquake of 1755 as the only area. It has the most original architecture with houses adorned with azulejo tiles, very narrow steep streets that turn into staircases, and plenty of small family-run restaurants.

The earthquake in 1755 completely devastated Lisbon. Current assessments rate it at 9 on the Richter scale, and the resulting tsunami wave reached a height of about 20 meters. The task of rebuilding was entrusted to the Marquis of Pombal, who is considered the father of seismology. The current shape of Baixa is due to him. The new buildings were tested through military column marches, simulating earthquakes. Since its reconstruction, Baixa has been the wealthiest district of Lisbon (the preserved street names are Golden and Silver), where we find the most luxurious shops.

From the Market Square, we pass under the Arch of Augusta and head towards Rossio. We can take some time to wander through the cross streets that form a regular grid pattern of rectangles. On the way to Rossio, we will pass the Santa Justa Lift, which is one of the symbols of Lisbon. It was built in 1902 by Raul Mesnier, who had previously studied under Gustave Eiffel. Initially powered by a steam engine, it was converted to electric in 1907. The lift is 45 meters tall, and above the upper station, there is an observation terrace that offers a beautiful view of Rossio Square and the neighborhood. The ticket costs 5.30 Euros and also includes access to the terrace. Note - the waiting time in line for the lift often exceeds an hour. It is better to walk towards Rossio Square, turn left onto the first street, and go up on foot. There is no line for the descent in the lift, and the experience remains the same.

Along the way, we will see the "singing sardine shop." This is the most luxurious chain of sardines shops, which, besides olive oil, is a trademark of Portugal. We will likely overpay, as equally good sardines can be bought at the smallest family shop, but we might find a box with the year of our birth. Of course, the sardines in this shop are the happiest as they ride on a carousel and sing.

At the entrance to the upper lift station are the ruins of the Carmo Convent - the only remnant of the earthquake that serves as a memorial to the event and an archaeological museum - the ticket price is 5 Euros. After descending the lift, we can cross Rossio Square and just behind it return to the top to Bairro Alto via the funicular Elevador da Gloria. We end the day at the viewpoint Miradouro de Sao Pedro, sipping a drink as the sun sets.

From the botanical garden, we can walk to the tram stop 15E and visit most famous pastry shop "Pasteis de Belem" to buy some tarts. I haven't had the chance to personally compare them with tarts from other bakeries (which I enjoyed very much) because the queue, reminiscent of the times of the Polish People's Republic, effectively deterred me.

We take the tram back to the final stop and can stroll along the Tagus River to the Commerce Square (Praça do Comércio) in the Baixa district. This is the lowest-lying area of Lisbon, built on the ruins of the Roman city of Olissipo. During the great earthquake of 1755, extensive underground chambers were discovered beneath the district, which are flooded by the Tagus waters for most of the year. Only for a few days in April and October they are open for tours, but reservations for the 15-minute tour are sold out well in advance. The entrance to the underground chambers is on Silver Street (Rua da Prata) - unfortunately, I do not know the price of the tour.

Before we delve into the streets of Baixa, we can take a moment to relax by the banks of the Tagus, where we will find a small beach and plenty of bars serving refreshing drinks.

1. Trip to Belem

Belem (Bethlehem) is somewhat distant from the old town, and to save time, you can get there by bus or tram. We descend from Bairo Alto down towards the Tagus. You can use the Elevador da Bica lift. At the lower station of the lift, on the right side, you'll find a wonderful little restaurant, Barbica, offering seafood dishes.

As we go lower, we pass by the Jardim Dom Luis park and Mercado da Ribeira - a market and fast food center that you must visit in the evening. We jump on tram 15E heading towards Belem. We will pass under the hanging bridge Ponte 25 Abril, which is over 2 km long. The main platform of the bridge is 70 meters above the water level. The name of the bridge commemorates the "Carnation Revolution" in 1974, regarded as a return to democracy after the period of Salazar's dictatorship. We get off at the Largo da Princesa stop in Belem.

Right by the Tagus stands the Monument to the Discoveries, a tribute to all sailors who contributed to the greatness of Portugal in past centuries and paved the sea routes to newly discovered lands. You can reach the top of the monument by elevator - the ticket price is about 10 Euros. The upper platform is narrow but very safe, so we feel secure. We have a view of Lisbon and the mouth of the Tagus.

Continuing along the shore, we reach a park with a tower in Belem, built in 1520 as a guard post for the port and a landmark for sailors. Interestingly, the tower initially stood in the center of the river's current. The great earthquake of 1755 shifted the current so that the tower now stands right by its right bank and can be accessed by a drawbridge. In later periods, the tower housed a prison, and among others, General Józef Bem was held here. The tower is open for visits - the ticket price is about 8 Euros.

In the park next to the Belem tower, there is a monument - a replica of the Fairey III-F D aircraft,with which two Portuguese aviators crossed the South Atlantic in 1922.

From the park in Belem, we can walk to the Jerónimos Monastery, built in the early 16th century as a thank you for Vasco da Gama's successful voyage to India (the sailor's tomb is in the monastery).

Adjacent to the monastery is a botanical garden, which is often overlooked, but it's worth entering to take a break from the crowds.

We get off at the last stop of tram line number 1 in the center of Porto and as we descend towards the river, we come straight to the Ribeira promenade. In the Middle Ages, this was the commercial and artisan center of the city. It was separated from the river by a defensive wall that was demolished in 1821, opening up views of the waterfront. At that time, the promenade was paved with cobblestones, which have survived to modern times. Today, it is the best place to relax and enjoy a traditional meal.

River docks are starting point for all tourist cruises on the Douro. We can indulge in the beautiful view of the Luis I bridge and the da Serra do Pilar monastery on the hill on the other side of the river.

You don’t have to worry about the need to walk from the Ribeira promenade to the upper level of the bridge, as you can take the Funicular dos Guindais. The ticket price is 3.50 Euro. Of course, after a good meal on the Ribeira promenade, you can conquer the 40-meter height difference (15 floors) by walking up the stairs.

Walking across the bridge to the other side of the river allows you to assess its height. We have a wonderful view of the Douro valley gorge and an opportunity to take photos. However, remember that trams regularly run across the bridge, and they are very quiet. Drivers slow down in this section, having learned from experience that tourists, in a frenzy to take another "selfie," step right in front of the wheels.

Opposite the entrance to the breakwaters stands Fort São João da Fozez. Built in 1567, it guarded the entrance to the Douro River. Over the years, it lost its strategic importance and was transformed into a prison. On the way back to the tram stop, we can walk through Passeio Alegre park and approach the old lighthouse São Miguel-o-Anjo. Here, the navigators' boats await to guide ships into the delta of the Duoro River.

The waterfront on the other side is filled with warehouses of the main Porto producers. From the height of the bridge, you can descend using the Teleferico cable car. A round-trip ticket costs 10 Euros and usually comes with a voucher for a free Porto tasting at one of the warehouses. This is often combined with an intimate Fado concert. Of course, we won't be tasting 5-year-old aged drinks, but we will sample what can be bought in most supermarkets in Poland while enjoying good music. The shore is adorned with classic boats carrying wine barrels.

We can return to the top using the cable car and visit the viewpoint near the Serra do Pilar monastery. We head back across the Luis I bridge towards the cathedral.

The Porto Cathedral was built in the mid-12th century and has undergone numerous renovations over the centuries. Since medieval times, it has also served as a defensive fortification. It is open for tours, but we should remember that it still functions as a Christian cathedral where services are held. Therefore, entrance to the church itself is free, but if we want to climb the towers and see parts of the monastery, we must purchase a ticket for 3 Euros. Tourists are asked not to disturb the services, so walking through the main nave is prohibited during that time. From the cathedral towers, we have the best view of all of Porto. Thus ends the second and final day of our visit.

Regardless of the weather, a walk along the breakwaters extending into the sea will provide plenty of impressions. During our visit, the waves crashed against the rocks at several meters high, and the day was calm. During storms, the breakwaters are closed.

As we head towards the Duoro River, we pass the stop for the historic tram number 1, which we can take for a short trip to the sea. This is the starting stop, and we will go to the end of the line, so we won't have a chance to get lost. The round trip ticket costs 6 Euros. The tram passes under the Ponta da Arabida bridge. The main span, measuring 270 meters, is the longest concrete arch in the world.

The Church of St. Francis is known as the "golden church" due to its gilded wooden interior. Completed in 1425, it is the finest example of Gothic architecture in Porto. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the wealthiest families in Porto chose the church as their pantheon.

The wooden gilded decorations were created in the early 18th century and are considered the most beautiful in Portugal. The incredible amount of detail requires several hours of exploration if we want to take a good look at everything.

A fire in 1832 destroyed the monastery, on the site of which the Palácio da Bolsa was later built. The church and the convent directly adjoin the stock exchange building and can easily be overlooked while touring the city.

Both buildings are no longer used for religious purposes. They are owned by the city and host cultural events. The admission ticket costs 7.50 Euros.

Thus we arrive at the Palácio da Bolsa - the stock exchange building, which was completed in 1850, but the final interior design dates from 1910. The palace is open for tours. The ticket price is 12 Euros.

In my opinion, more interesting sites near the palace are the House of the Third Order of St. Francis and the Church of St. Francis.

The Convent was built in 1749 on the site of a poorhouse that had burned down a few years earlier. It houses a museum dedicated to the history of Porto and the achievements of the order. In the salons on the second floor, we will see original wooden ceilings. In the basement, there are catacombs with the graves of church dignitaries and noble individuals who contributed to Porto. There is also a common grave for the nameless residents of the poorhouse.

As we descend towards the river, we pass the viewpoint Miradouro da Vittoria and walk by the old market hall Mercado Ferreira Borges, built in 1885. The hall was never used as a marketplace because the merchants moved to other areas of Porto. It serves as an art gallery.

Day 2

We begin our hike from the hilltop botanical garden Jardins to the Palacio de Cristal, where the Rosa Mota exhibition hall stands in the center, named for its UFO-like shape. The hall is located on the site of the pavilion built for the world exhibition in 1865, known as the "Crystal Palace." Unfortunately, the building did not survive and was demolished in 1951. From the garden, there is a magnificent view of the Duoro River valley.

As we march towards the Sao Bento train station, we pass the Church of St. Ildefonso. Built in 1739 in the Baroque style, it features a traditionally tiled facade with azulejos. The decoration, consisting of 11,000 tiles, was completed only in 1932.

The Sao Bento train station is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a national monument of Portugal. The construction on the site of the ruined Benedictine monastery was completed in 1904. From the outside, the building does not stand out among Porto's other landmarks. The train tracks are not visible, so the station is easiest to locate by the line of taxis waiting at the front. The railway lines are brought in through a tunnel that was opened in 1893. The tunnel and station are also used by the metro line. The main attraction is the hall adorned with over 20,000 azulejos depicting scenes from Portuguese history.

Due to the pandemic, restaurants and bars closed earlier, so the old town quickly became deserted in the evening. We could relax peacefully before the next day.

The end of Avenida Aliados is crowned by the town hall building with a 70-meter clock tower. Construction began in 1920 and was completed only in 1957. From here, we can head towards the Mercado do Bolhao market, whose history dates back to the 1840s. During our visit, the building was being renovated and hidden behind scaffolding with advertisements. Necessarily, I am posting a photo that is not mine. It is definitely a place that should not be missed.

It is already close to the "Blue Church" Capela das Almas. The name is associated with the facade of the building covered in Azulejos tiles. The area of the Azulejos is 360 square meters, and the total number of tiles is 15,947 pieces. The impression is incredible as the church is located on the busy shopping street Rua de Santa Caterina. In a moment, we will pass the famous Majestic Cafe, which opened in 1921.

The next stop of the tour is Praca da Liberdade (Liberty Square) and the avenue Aliados leading from it towards the city hall.

In Liberty Square stands the statue of Dom Pedro IV, who after a brief period when Rio de Janeiro was the capital of Portugal remained in Brazil as regent. He did not heed the order to return to Portugal, which resulted in his demotion to a representative of the court. This caused general discontent in the colony, and Dom Pedro was crowned Emperor of Brazil as Dom Pedro I. After the death of his father, King John VI, he took the title of King of Portugal as Dom Pedro IV. His indecision between the two countries deepened the discontent and ended with his abdication from both thrones. Dom Pedro IV died in Portugal of tuberculosis at the age of 36.

The Clerigos Church with its towering spire is visible from nearly every point in the old town and serves as an excellent landmark. The tower stands 75 meters tall and was the tallest structure in Portugal for several centuries. Admission costs around 9 Euros. As we ascend the tower, we pass by a carillon – a relatively uncommon musical instrument. Using a special keyboard, musician plays a set of church bells by manipulating their clappers. Shortly after, we encounter the bells as we continue up the stairs to the viewing terrace. From the tower, we can access the interior of the church and the gallery.

Day 1

Porto is a city of churches, so visiting them all can become monotonous. We chose a few based on intuition, guided by descriptions in guides and tips from the tourist information.

Two connected churches, the Carmelites and Carmo, at Parada Leitao Square, are next to the loop of historic trams on lines 18 and 22. You can take advantage of them for a quick tour of the city. Porto is also rich in Azulejo tiles in pale blue shades depicting biblical, genre, and historical scenes. Such compositions cannot be seen in Lisbon.

Right next to it is the Leoes fountain and the natural history department of the university. Continuing down Carmelitas Street, we reach the famous bookstore Livraria Lello. This place inspired the author of the Harry Potter saga to create the stairs in Hogwarts Castle. The bookstore is visited in small groups - we must therefore wait in line for at least 30 minutes, whether we bought a ticket online beforehand or buy it while standing in line at the cashiers with terminals. The ticket price of 8 or 16 Euros also includes a voucher for purchases in the bookstore of the same value. Some of the books available on the shelves are special editions dedicated to the bookstore. Usually, the same titles can be purchased much cheaper elsewhere (of course, these will be standard editions).

Porto

Located on the banks of the Douro River, Porto is the second largest city in Portugal, but it feels much smaller. The historic district of Ribeira and its surroundings can be explored in a single day. The city's history dates back to the 5th century, and the name of the city is the origin of the country's name.

King John I of Portugal married Philippa of Lancaster in Porto, forming a Portuguese-English alliance. This opened up the Porto wine market, and the local beverage became known worldwide. To preserve the flavor characteristics, the wines were blended with grape spirit and barrel-aged with an alcohol content of about 20%. This halts the fermentation process and retains the natural sugar from the grapes. Porto is made exclusively from grapes harvested in the middle reaches of the Douro River. It is usually aged in barrels for 3 to 5 years, but there are Vintage varieties aged for as long as 50 years.

A distinctive landmark of the city is the double-decked Dom Luís I Bridge, built in 1886 by the Belgian engineer Théophile Seyrig, a pupil of Gustave Eiffel. The height of the upper deck above the water's surface is 45 meters.

Similar to Lisbon, the city center can be reached from the airport via the purple Aeroporto metro line. We stayed on Rua de Miguel Bombarda and got around the city on foot, except for our trip to the seaside where we took the historic tram line number 1.

Our planned excursions did not cover all the places mentioned in the guides, but we were limited by time. Additionally, the year 2020 was the peak of the Covid-19 pandemic, so there were significant restrictions in place. We hit a brief window in travel restrictions and took advantage of low ticket prices and apartment rentals. Unfortunately, we often had to wear masks and had to forget about someone taking picture of us with our camera.

Lisbon

The oldest neighborhoods of the city are located along the Tag River on 7 hills. Each of them is full of tourist attractions and landmarks that must be seen: Baixa, Chiado, Alfama, Castello, Bairro Alto, S'ta Catarina, Belem. To avoid some steep sections, we can use the elevators: Gloria, Bica, Santa Justa or the historic trams. For trips to the modern parts of the city (e.g., to the Oceanarium), I recommend the metro. Check the operating hours because the elevators usually close first, and you will have to walk up the stairs (especially unpleasant with luggage after arriving from the airport).

It's worth staying in one of the old neighborhoods because here we find the best family restaurants, and at night the streets turn into entertainment centers. Therefore, we are looking for an apartment on the 2nd or 3rd floor with windows facing the courtyard. From 7:00 PM, the street party begins - crowds of tourists, open bars, restaurants, Fado concerts, dancing, and drinking continue until the morning. A complete silence falls, which lasts shortly because around 7:00 AM cleaning begins. The cleaning crews connect fire hoses to hydrants and wash down the street with streams of water, flushing away plastic beer cups, plates, bottles, and cans. At the bottom, a barrier awaits, and everything is packed into garbage trucks. The street is dead until evening, all establishments closed with shutters, making it hard to recognize the places we visited.

We have stayed in Bairro Alto twice, and I personally recommend this neighborhood for its good communication with other parts of the city, a good number of small shops useful for morning shopping, and of course bars, cafes, and restaurants.

I will describe below the routes of our excursions from Bairro Alto, which are a proposal for sightseeing that allows you to see as much as possible during a 4-day stay.

What is worth knowing before a trip to Portugal

We have visited Portugal three times and since our first visit in 2017, we have not noticed any significant changes. It is a multicultural country, so you will encounter people of all skin tones from various continents. Centuries of coexistence have taught them mutual tolerance, cooperation, and a good spirit.

Since the 3rd century AD, the Iberian Peninsula was ruled by the Roman Empire, which led to a rapid civilizational development and gradual Christianization. The 5th century brought invasions by Germanic tribes, who did not enjoy their rule for long, as in the early 8th century the entire peninsula was occupied by the Moors.

Europe could not reconcile with this loss, and from the north, a gradual Reconquista began, lasting until the mid-13th century. The Portuguese state in its current territory with its capital in Lisbon was established in 1249.

The Portuguese continued the Reconquista by moving the battles to northern Africa. In this way, they became the first colonial power by occupying Ceuta (now a territory of Spain on the southern side of the Strait of Gibraltar), and later the Madeira and Azores archipelagos in 1432.

The creator of Portugal's maritime power was Henry the Navigator. As the third royal son, he became the Grand Master of the Order of Christ in 1420, from whose funds Henry's ideas were sponsored - a navigation school in Lisbon and the world's first maritime school in Sagres. In reality, Henry was not a sailor and only made 3 short sea voyages to Africa as a passenger in his life.

The golden age for the Kingdom of Portugal began with attempts to sail around Africa and clear a sea route to India. This led to the discovery of the Cape Verde Islands and the territories of present-day South Africa with the Cape of Good Hope. The ultimate success came from Vasco da Gama's expedition, which reached the port of Calicut (now Kozhikode) in 1499. Some sources state that the navigator of the expedition was a Polish Jew from Poznań who was naturalized in Portugal and took the name Gaspar da Gama. He was undoubtedly an excellent translator and was well-acquainted with the customs of the African tribes along the route of the expedition. The financial value of such discoveries is evidenced by the fact that the load of pepper brought from India was enough to cover the costs of building the Hieronymite monastery in Lisbon.

At the beginning of the 16th century, Portugal was the largest global power, encompassing the territories of India, the Far East, Africa, and Brazil (accidentally discovered in 1500 during a trading expedition by Pedro Álvares Cabral). The navigator of Cabral was none other than Gaspar da Gama.

Due to its small population resources, Portugal was unable to control and maintain its colonies, gradually losing them to other European countries. The situation was worsened by the personal union with Spain, the Inquisition, and the expulsion of Jews. The decline occurred during the Napoleonic Wars when the royal court fled to Brazil, and Rio de Janeiro was declared the capital in 1808 (this is probably the only such case in history).

During World War II, Portugal remained a neutral country, although in 1943 it provided military bases in the Azores to the Allies.

Hmm... I have written a lot about the history of the country, but it is from this history that the multiculturalism and vibrant atmosphere of the streets of Lisbon and Porto arise. Flights from Poland to both cities are not serviced by low-cost airlines, so we must rely on regular connections, usually with a layover. Direct flights are scarce and not at very convenient hours. It is easier to find a flight connection between Porto and Lisbon and plan a trip that allows you to see both cities during one stay.

However, you should reserve at least 2 days for Porto and 4 for Lisbon. While in Lisbon, you cannot miss Sintra (at least 1 day). Thus, it becomes a 7-day trip, which may turn out to be too intense a program. The airports in Porto and Lisbon are connected to the city centers by metro lines, so there are no problems with transportation. Single tickets can be purchased from machines at each station. Credit cards or cash (Euro zone) are accepted. We enter without a visa with a passport or ID.

Bring good shoes with a sturdy flat sole. The cities are situated on hills, and you will face numerous steep ascents and descents. The sidewalks and streets are paved with cobblestones, which are quite sharp and very slippery when it rains. At the same time, it is hot, so decent sandals will work (but not loose flip-flops).