What do we eat in Norway?

I don't have many examples here because we used supplies taken from Poland. We ate something few times while visiting cities, but these were dishes served in stalls at fairs.

- pickled herring (you can't buy them anywhere, at least we didn't come across such a place, so we only know them from stories)

- grilled whale (it was available only in one place). Apparently, you can buy frozen meat in stores, but we didn't find it anywhere.

- grilled fish and seafood (prices similar to whale meat)

- fish soup

- cheeses with a sweetish taste (4-5 types and it's worth trying each one)

- sweet cones

- raspberry cloudberry jam

- salami (you can buy a set of 3 pieces: moose, whale, reindeer).

Our recommendations

- ride on the Flamsbana railway

- cruise on the fjord from Flam to Gudvangen

- ride on the Floibanen funicular and the old town in Bergen

- cathedral in Trondheim and a cruise to Munkholmen island

- road number 55 and glaciers

- visit to Røros

- ski jumps in Lillehammer

- Cape Smygehuk in Sweden

- TT Lines ferry services

Acknowledgments

Thanks to the drewmet-trans company from Piaseczno for technical support, help during the trip, and patience for inexperienced users https://kampery.drewmet-trans.pl - I took the opportunity of attaching the company logo painted on each camper.

Next time it will be easier.

The Flamsbana is one of the oldest mountain railways in Europe. By decision of the Norwegian Parliament, construction began in 1923 with the aim of electric power supply and a standard dual-rail electric locomotive. The relatively steep gradients limited the load capacity of the train. Along the route, 20 tunnels were built, with an excavation rate of about 1 meter per day. An additional 3 tunnels were constructed for the river Flam to avoid running the railway over bridges. Ultimately, the connection was launched in 1939, but only partially. The outbreak of war caused a brief pause in electrification, and the German occupiers used a small steam locomotive. The first passengers traveled on the electric train only in 1941. It is worth noting that during construction, only two fatal accidents were recorded.

We had quite a surprise as we entered the platform as an organized group (ticket for 15 people). Our carriage was specially marked and cordoned off :-) The ticket price is 270 PLN, children get a 50% discount, and dogs travel for free.

The trip lasts about 2 hours. The train reaches the final station Myrdal, where you can transfer to a train to Oslo or Bergen. Along the way, we pass several tiny stops, where we usually do not stop (unless someone from the local residents is waiting for a courier delivery). The only longer stop is at the Kjosfossen waterfall, which is about 230 meters high. If you are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of a water nymph jumping on the rocks around it. The train returns from Myrdal to Flam after a 15-minute stop.

The vintage carriages immerse us in a unique atmosphere of the early 20th century, and the views outside the window are unparalleled.

Returning to the bus through the familiar center allowed for some more necessary shopping.

A bit about the prices of recreational substances. None of us smoke, but cigarette prices range from 55 to 70 PLN per pack. As for alcohol, in all stores, you can buy beer with a maximum of 4.5% alcohol for around 15 PLN for a half-liter can. Stronger drinks are only available in designated stores. It is not easy to find them as they are hidden in side streets and there are not many. A half-liter of the cheapest vodka costs over 100 PLN.

We walked through the deserted city to the old town along the Nidelva River. The houses along the shore once again amazed us. It's hard to decide whether the ones in Bergen are prettier or those here. We found the iconic pub Antikvariatet, where you can enjoy a good beer while listening to amateurs playing guitar or piano. It's worth venturing into the maze of narrow rooms and corridors to reach the terrace by the river.

The plan for the next day included a ferry trip to one of the chosen places: Hitra island, the Austrått fortress, or Vanvikan beach (ferries 800, 805, 810), but we decided to stay in Trondheim - it might be a shame, but that was the group's wish.

Along the old port canals and warehouses, a shopping center was revitalized. You can spend some time shopping there, but it’s more of a place for youth entertainment. There are a few antique shops nearby, including record stores. I couldn't resist the pleasure and spent 30 minutes in one of them. Prices are below average in Poland, so I consider the shopping a success.

We ended the day with a walk through the streets in the center of Trondheim, not skipping the souvenir shops and landing at the bus stop for line 70.

The islet is located less than 2 km from the shore, so the boat trip takes 10 minutes. In Viking times, it was a place of execution. In the Middle Ages, a Benedictine abbey was established here (hence the island's name), but all wooden structures were destroyed in the 17th century when Protestantism reached these areas.

In 1661, the construction of the fort was completed, which also served as a royal prison for the elite. It was no longer used after 1893 as it lost its strategic defensive significance.

During World War II, Trondheim was home to a base for German submarines. Anti-aircraft batteries were placed on the island, and the fort housed ammunition depots.

Currently, the islet is treated as a recreational spot with a small beach and a restaurant. The fort is not open for tours.

Boats to the island of Munkholmen depart every hour from 10:30 AM to 5:30 PM during the summer months. Returns are at o'clock hours. A ticket costs 60 PLN. We can stay on the island for the entire day as long as we return on the last trip at 6:00 PM. With a captain like ours, we had no worries about the safety of the journey.

We returned to the center through Torvet, the central city square, where Christmas markets are held in winter. In summer, we also encounter stalls with handicrafts (not necessarily Scandinavian).

We crossed the footbridge over the train station to reach the small ferry port to get the boat. This part of the city features modern glass architecture. On the left side of the passage above the station, you will find the largest chain souvenir shop "Fjordbuda."

Fort Kristansten is the best-preserved 17th-century fortress in Norway. Construction began after the great fire of the city in 1681. It fully served its purpose by defending the city during the Swedish attack in 1718. The most impressive central bastion was equipped with artillery positions and storage facilities. It now houses a museum.

After World War II, the fortress was a site for executing criminals and war criminals collaborating with the German forces. Earlier, the Gestapo murdered Norwegian members of the resistance movement here.

Entry to the fortress and museum is free, and from the hill, there is a view of the entire city along with the islet of Munkholmen.

The construction of the bridge was completed in 1685. Originally, it was a wooden structure supported by three stone pillars. In the middle, there was an iron city gate that functioned until 1816. On both banks, there were toll booths and guardhouses where fees were collected. In 1861, it was rebuilt, giving it its current shape. The Bakke bridge visible from it is a newer structure from 1927.

At the back of the cathedral, we cross the "Gamle bybro" bridge, which is the old city bridge to the other side of the Nidelva river. Along the way, we pass Radio Otto, a stone monument dedicated to Otto Nielsen, a well-known radio personality. The oldest district of the city stretches along the banks, and by climbing uphill, we will reach the fortress of Kristansten.

On the front wall, we see 57 sculptures of apostles and saints, many details were crafted by English stone masons from Lincoln. Admission is charged and costs 60 PLN (animals are not allowed). Opening hours vary depending on the day of the week as there are masses and ceremonies held in the cathedral. Tickets can be purchased at the box office in the courtyard, where there is also a cafeteria with a bar and a souvenir shop.

The powerful interior captivates with details. The impressive organ in the main nave was built in 1930 by the Steinmeyer company. It has 9600 pipes across 4 manuals and a pedalboard. They replaced the earlier Wagner organ from 1741, which was moved to the side nave.

For an additional fee of 30 PLN, you can climb the main tower via 172 steps. Since the Kristansten fortress looms over the cathedral, providing a better view, we decided to skip the climb.

In the crypt, the oldest tombs and fragments of stone coffins can be found.

Among the most important monuments is the Protestant cathedral of Nidarosdomen, modeled after the English cathedral in Canterbury. It was built in 1152 and for a long time served as a Christian temple. It housed the grave of King Olaf II with a silver coffin. In 1537, during the Danish occupation, the coffin was taken away and melted down for coins. At that time, the last Catholic bishop also fled the city. The cathedral contains the tombs of the royal family, and since 1814, all coronations have taken place there.

The city was founded in 996 and was the seat of the kings of Norway and the capital until 1217 (the capital was then moved to Bergen). It ranks third in population - just over 200,000 residents. It is located at the mouth of the Nidelva River and was initially named Nidaros. The name was changed in the late Middle Ages after the conquest of Norway by Denmark.

Take the painter's masking tape. All cabinets and the refrigerator have self-locking mechanisms, but on narrow winding roads, they tend to open with a bang. Sealing them during travel will improve your comfort. Sleeping bags or bedding will come in handy (whatever you prefer, there's room for it). The central bed lowers over the table, and we climb into it via a steep ladder - by the second night, we won't fall.

The computer controlling the living area informs about water supplies, electricity, and tank usage. It needs to be checked regularly to avoid unpleasant situations. On the maps, you will find service points for campers, where you can dispose of waste and refill water (often marked in Poland as WC BUS).

You can take frozen foods. The refrigerator is powered from several sources: the car battery (during travel and short stops), external power 230 V (at the campsite), gas, and solar batteries. During driving, the gas must be turned off. The ferry trip is critical - the gas must be turned off and there is no electrical power. In our case, the 6-hour ferry ride from Świnoujście to Trelleborg was fine, but if you have the Gdynia to Sweden route, it might be worse. We also had a suitcase with tools, flashlights, and a booster. If you can borrow vegetable crates, it’s best to store supplies in them. It will be easier to keep the trunk organized.

The diesel engine requires AdBlue - a spare 10-liter container will come in handy because the alarm usually goes on at the most unexpected moments. Most cars have a 230 V inverter that provides power while driving and when the gas is turned on to all sockets. It’s good to ask about it because the switch is located in strange places. Photos from the car rental website give a rough idea of what it’s like inside.

From Røros towards Lillehammer, we took the scenic route number 219 along the Rondane massif. It is definitely easier than road 55, but the views are equally interesting. We spent the night in a large parking lot at the Hafjell ski resort, taking advantage of the free toilets and showers. The parking lot is equipped to accommodate campers and caravans during the winter season with many spots offering electrical hookups. The ski resort features 50 km of slopes with the longest run being 7.5 km. The highest peak is 1059 meters, but we don't worry much about snow in winter. There are 19 lifts available, including moving walkways for the youngest.

We were greatly impressed by the glass gallery, where you can take photos with strange headgear, as well as the café with its historic interiors available for guests.

The attractions also include a reconstructed copper mine and a museum. Admission costs 64 PLN - unfortunately, dogs are not allowed, so we only viewed the external part. The tour program includes a descent 50 meters underground on a half - kilometr route in the mine.

We caught a training session on the plastic ski jump, and it was the first live ski jumping I had ever seen. The girls jumped just as well as the boys on both the small and large hills. One of the competitors reluctantly agreed to let me take a photo with his skis. You can also take pictures on the platform in the position of a flying athlete and check out the souvenir shop. Our dog jumped almost as well as I did - he didn't spread his paws, so he lost about 10 meters - but he got a higher score for style.

By the shore, we encountered Sosnowski's hogweed - a dangerous plant that can cause severe burns. That day, there was a gathering of classic American cars at the marina - the well-maintained limousines attracted crowds of onlookers, and country music was playing from a DJ in a cowboy hat.

In the evening, we boarded the night ferry to Świnoujście, saying goodbye to Scandinavia with a beautiful sunset. The ferry arrives at 6:00 AM, so at 4:00, cheerful music and the voice of the announcer came from the speakers to wake us up.

Much more interesting is the Smygehuk cape - the southernmost point of Sweden. It is only 18 km from Trelleborg, so we spent the entire morning there. You can visit the active lighthouse (for free), enjoy some delicious fish, and spend your last money in the souvenir shops. There are quite a few of them, but the prices are high because they are usually artistic handicrafts.

Trelleborg and Smygehuk

Since we were departing on the evening ferry, we had the whole day to explore, but there isn't much to see in Trelleborg. The old town consists of just a few streets with a church towering over them. Next to it is the "Viking Fortress" which resembles more of a children's playground. It's good that there is no fee for visiting.

Lillehammer

The city hosted the Winter Olympic Games in 1994 and is known to ski jumping enthusiasts for the numerous successes of Polish athletes. It has just under 30,000 residents, so a few hours are enough for sightseeing. The main promenade in the center runs among 19th-century wooden tenements with many shops and restaurants. It is worth driving up to the ski jump from where we have a panorama of the entire valley of Norway's largest lake Mjøsa.

Røros

A mining town established in the 17th century near a copper mine. Permission for exploitation of the deposits was granted in 1644. During the war with the Swedes, it was completely destroyed, but nature took cruel revenge on the invaders. The poorly equipped Swedish army became stranded in the surrounding mountains during winter. Over 3000 soldiers commanded by General De la Barre froze to death.

The rapid development of the mine and the town began in the mid-18th century. From 1870, dynamite and machines were used, and a railway line was also built. Ultimately, the copper and zinc mines were closed only in 1977 after 333 years of operation.

In 1980, the town was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. More than 80 wooden houses from the 17th century and a stone church built in 1784 have been preserved. All buildings are still inhabited, with shops selling souvenirs, antiques, cafes, and bars on the ground floor. The main street is always full of tourists, but just turning into an alley will reveal only a few people.

Trondheim

The northernmost city on our route. After three days of driving from Bergen, we also planned a longer break at Storsand Gård campsite. Located by the fjord about 20 km from the center of Trondheim, it has excellent facilities including a swimming area, a wooden pier, and a fishing spot. The cost of stay is 63 PLN per person per night with all amenities.

A huge advantage is the bus stop number 70 located 300 meters from the entrance. The bus takes you to the city center in 30 minutes and runs 3 times an hour. Note - you need to install another mobile app from atb.no on your phone because Skyss serving Bergen does not operate here. A single ticket costs 20 PLN.

The weather did not disappoint us once again, although the evenings were already cool, especially when the cold wind blew from the fjord and the sun had already set. That’s when hats and warm sweatshirts came in handy. At this latitude in July, it hardly gets dark. At 12:00 AM it starts to get dim, but by 2:00 AM it is already getting light again. Fortunately, all the windows in the camper have blinds, so you can simulate night.

What to take on a trip?

The answer is not simple because the camper has a specific load capacity that we cannot exceed. From the initial ideas, bicycles and the Thermomix were quickly ruled out. With a tight sightseeing schedule, no one will be sitting in the kitchen, and we might only use the bikes once or twice to go to the store at the campsite. Of course, clothes for all weather, flip-flops for the shower, and a beach towel are essential.

We took a supply of food for at least two weeks (of which half came back): pasta, groats, rice, ready-made meals, canned goods, bread, vegetables, coffee, tea, and spices. A toaster for hot sandwiches came in handy, and the other kitchen utensils are included with the camper along with the tableware. It's worth bringing drinking water in 5-liter containers. The clean water tank in the camper can be "sludged" and we usually only use it for washing.

Road number 55

One of the most beautiful scenic routes leading through the national parks of Breheimen and Jotunheimen. It is not one of the easiest, and there are sections where it is difficult to pass another vehicle. Along the way, we use the ferry crossing at Lærdal.

More glaciers are visible in Bøverdal. There is a large shelter and a viewing path at the pass. Along the way, many campers are "overnighting" on the shoulders.

Located closer to Trondheim, the Snøhetta viewpoint requires a detour via side roads. We have to walk about 1 km, leaving our cars in the parking lot. The area is praised as a haven for wildlife, such as musk oxen. Unfortunately, apart from a flock of sheep, we did not encounter anything else. However, it is worth climbing just for the view. At the summit stands a futuristic cabin with a huge panoramic window, a fireplace, and seating arranged in an amphitheater style.

We've spent night in a small parking lot by the road near Lom. Interestingly, around 10 PM the traffic stops and it is very quiet until morning - you can get a good night's sleep.

We took the risk of another entry on the paid gravel road to the Spiterstulen lodge, from where you can start mountain trekking in the area. The mountains in Norway are not very high - the highest peaks reach 2500 meters. Payment for the road must be made on the Autopay.io website. The lodge is comfortable, and at the entrance, we take off our shoes and put on the slippers provided for guests. There is also a small souvenir shop here.

It's getting cold here. The weather has been kind to us, and we spent most of the time in shorts and sandals, which is not typical for Norway even in July. The water in the fjords is icy, and there are few bathers. I went in twice, but I didn't swim - it was more of a quick dip like after a sauna. On the Bøverdal plateau, you need to switch to warm clothes and jackets.

Climbing it is not easy due to numerous crevices and falling ice chunks. In recent years, several people have died there.

In the mid-18th century, during very harsh winters, the glacier expanded significantly, destroying nearby farms. Since then, it occupies a slightly smaller area.

Lake Nigardsbrevatnet is a body of water formed by a melting glacier. Walking along its shore, we pass through rock formations polished by ice over the past thousands of years.

If you decide to drive up to the Nigardsbreen glacier in Sogn, you will enter a paid gravel road. Within 48 hours, you must make the payment through the PassPay.no website by providing your vehicle registration number. The fee is 40 PLN. From the parking lot, you can continue on foot, but I recommend taking a boat trip on the Nigardsbrevatnet lake, which will shorten the hike. The price is about 35 PLN.

For climbing enthusiasts, "professional" guided trips to the glacier tongue are organized. You will receive crampons and ice axes, and you need to have appropriate trekking shoes - I haven't checked the prices.

Wandering around the harbor pool, we come across a cluster of outdoor restaurants offering a selection of relatively inexpensive lunch dishes. I particularly recommend the fish and seafood. Despite humanitarian scruples, we decided to try whale steaks. Scandinavians treat these mammals like any other marine catch, and frozen whale meat or sausages can be bought in stores. The price of a lunch portion is similar to grilled salmon and is about 80 PLN. The meat tastes like beef tenderloin, perhaps just a bit tougher. I highly recommend giving it a try.

The old port is used exclusively by small tour boats and yachts. Larger vessels dock at the new quay. In our tight schedule, we only had one day to explore the city. We somewhat regret that we couldn't stay longer as we had to skip some interesting places.

The famous painting "The Scream" painted in 1893 by Munch is the subject of many funny parodies. We were unable to reach the museum in Oslo. Time also did not allow for a visit to Edvard Grieg's museum, which we passed on our way into Bergen.

The most recognizable part of the city is the Bryggen waterfront promenade. The old wooden buildings with narrow corridors invite tourists to delve into the maze of shops selling souvenirs, handicrafts, clothing, and food. The entire block of streets is wooden and mostly dates back to 1702. Part of it was destroyed in a fire in 1955 and has been carefully reconstructed.

The oldest districts of the city are concentrated around the port and are easy to reach. It is worth starting the sightseeing by taking the funicular to Mount Fløyen. The line was established in 1918 but has been modernized and equipped with new carriages. From the hill, we have a panoramic view of the entire city (the ticket price for adults is 80 PLN). You can relax in the park, enjoy the restaurants and bars, and there is a playground built for the youngest visitors. Tickets can be purchased at the automatic machines at the lower station.

Bergen

The second largest city in Norway, with just under 300,000 residents. The fishing and trading settlement was founded in the late 11th century. It was an important political center and the capital of Norway until the early 20th century. It also served as a cultural and scientific hub.

I advise against driving a camper into the city center due to the lack of parking spaces. It’s best to leave the car on the outskirts near a tram or bus line. You should install the Skyss app on your phone to purchase tickets (the price for a single journey is about 20 PLN).

Traveling with a dog

If we want to take our four-legged friend with us, we must arrange this in advance with the camper rental. It is not always accepted, sometimes it requires an additional fee, and sometimes it is not a problem.

The pet must have a passport and a "chip". The passport contains information about the current rabies vaccination and confirmation from a veterinarian of deworming within 48 hours before entering Norway.

When purchasing ferry tickets, we select the option to travel with a dog. We then receive a special cabin - it differs from the standard one by having plastic flooring instead of carpets. On the ferry, you will find a special outdoor area with artificial grass and a sandbox.

It is mandatory to keep the dog on a leash and to use a muzzle in all means of transport. The latter is not strictly enforced, and our dog did not wear a muzzle anywhere. We cannot do without a leash - you do not see any animals running free (setting aside my own worries that a stressed dog might run away somewhere).

We brought our own food and bed, which we set up in the cabin on the ferry and in the camper. A major inconvenience for the pet is the lack of windows at their height during the journey. Dogs accustomed to outside views are distressed by the shaking vehicle seen from floor level.

Dogs are privileged: we do not pay for them on any means of transport, and there are no additional fees at campsites. However, they are not allowed in shops and restaurants.

During the cruise, we can use several outdoor decks. Inside, there is a common area with chairs and tables, as well as a buffet (available for an additional fee).

On the way back by bus, we will pass through a 25-kilometer tunnel - the longest in this part of Norway. Inside, there are several maneuvering areas that allow for stopping in case of a car breakdown or turning around even with a large truck.

The attraction for children is the Viking village, where young trainees can practice archery. The Vikings, dressed in appropriate costumes, turned out to be a Polish reenactment group with a contract for the entire 2026 season.

Visiting the village costs 105 PLN for adults. Children receive a 50% discount, and dogs are not allowed.

Along the fjord, we find a grassy beach with wooden benches. There is a grocery store near the gas station. Those desperate can take a bath; there is also a sauna by the shore, but I haven't checked the prices.

The electric ferry trip from Flam to Gudvangen is a must-do on the itinerary. You can choose to return by ferry or bus. We have several sailings daily and different bus departure times. It’s worth taking a 2-3 hour break in Gudvangen, where we can have lunch at several self-service restaurants at quite reasonable prices. The ferry takes about 2 hours, and the bus ride takes 30 minutes.

The cost of the trip with the bus return option is 330 PLN per person. As everywhere, children receive a 50% discount, and dogs travel for free.

The Stegastein viewpoint is considered the best view of the fjords in Norway. The wooden-glass structure resembles a ski jump. Admission is free, but the access road is not suitable for campers. From Flam, you can book a minivan tour for 210 PLN per person. The stop at the top lasts about 20 minutes because the parking is very small, and drivers try to ease the congestion at the viewpoint platform. Including the ride, the entire trip takes about 2 hours.

Whether it's worth spending money on this, you will have to judge for yourselves based on the photos.

Due to the large group, I booked the stay and excursions well in advance, using the official websites:

https://www.flaam-camping.no/

https://www.norwaysbest.com/

Booking calendars usually open 3 months before the planned stay. It's worth checking them regularly because some attractions are booked up by large travel agencies and soon become unavailable. Suffice it to say, we had our Flamsbana train ride at 7:20 AM. The remaining times were already booked by groups from the cruise ship.

The only stave church in Norway that has survived to this day can be found in the village of Borgund near Flam. It was built entirely of wood around the year 1150. The structure is supported by 12 pillars, which form the main nave. The decor is extremely austere, as is typical of Protestant churches. Inside, there is a dim light because the only illumination comes from narrow windows. The entrance fee is 60 PLN. Dogs are not allowed inside the church, but a walk in the courtyard with a leashed dog is permitted.

We arrive in Świnoujście at 5:00 AM and spend the day on the return trip to Warsaw.

The first day after picking up the cars was spent traveling from Warsaw towards Świnoujście. The overnight stay at the rest area beyond Gorzów Wielkopolski was not the most pleasant due to the McDonald's and gas station. The ferry departed at 4:00 PM, so after breakfast, we headed towards Szczecin. We arrived in Trelleborg by 10:00 PM and found a quiet place to stay 30 minutes from the city.

The next day was spent driving through Sweden to the border with Norway at the historic Svinesund bridge. We reached the previously booked campsite in Flam on the third day and stayed there for three days. I will describe the attractions in Flam later.

On the seventh day, we set off for Bergen in the morning; it seems close, but it takes us over 4 hours to get there. We explore the city and in the evening, we head back towards Flam, staying overnight in Gudvangen.

The next stage includes national parks and glaciers in Jostedal, with an overnight stay in a field near Lom. On the ninth day in the evening, we reach the Storsand Gard campsite near Trondheim. Here, we take another break in our journey and spend two days exploring the city.

We drive to the old mining town of Roros, spend the whole day sightseeing, and then take the next picturesque mountain route to Lillehammer. We stay overnight in the parking lot of the Hafjell ski resort.

On the thirteenth day, we arrive back in Sweden and stay overnight near Udevalla. On the last day, we reach Trelleborg. This time we have a night ferry at 10:00 PM, which allows us to explore the city and visit the southernmost point of Sweden - Smygehuk.

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Flam

A small town located at the end of the Aurlandsfjord, which is a branch of the Sognefjord. Sogne is the largest fjord in Norway, stretching 203 km in length with a depth reaching 1308 meters.

Flam has about 450 permanent residents. During the summer, over 1500 people stay at the campground, and every morning a cruise ship docks at the waterfront, disembarking 5000 passengers. It gets crowded in the small center then. You will find a tourist information point with ferry terminals, a Flamsbana train station, a bus station, and plenty of souvenir and clothing shops. The picture is completed by a few restaurants, a small market, food trucks, and a grocery store.

We chose this place for a 3-day stay and planned several excursions around the area using local transportation to take a break from driving the camper. The cost of stay per day is 72 PLN per person (camper, electricity hookup, 4 people, dog, all kitchen and toilet amenities). The camper service point is included in the stay - try comparing it to a stay at a campground in Hel Poland.

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On the way to Flam

Traveling through Sweden is quite comfortable because we move along free highways, and the few slowdowns we encounter are only near Gothenburg. However, we do not exceed speeds because it wastes money, and the camper consumes a lot of fuel at speeds over 90 km/h. If we have cruise control, 105 will be fairly economical (on highways you can drive up to 120, on regular roads up to 80 km/h).

The journey with breaks for meals and rest will take the whole day anyway. If we reach the border near the historic bridge in Svinesund in the evening, today’s travel plan has been achieved. We have a few spots by the bridge for free overnight stays (including toilets) and we explore the bridge. The Sweden-Norway border is an opportunity for "Tax Free" shopping, but the offer is not very rich. On the Norwegian side, a customs police patrol watches over, mainly focusing on locals.

Construction of the old Svinesund bridge began in 1939. It was partially interrupted during Sweden's defensive actions during World War II. A section of the bridge was blown up in 1942 out of fear of Sweden being occupied by the Germans who were occupying Norway. Ultimately, the crossing was completed in 1946. The bridge is 420 meters long and rises 65 meters above the water surface.

On the stretch to Oslo, the views are rather dull and somewhat reminiscent of traveling through the Baltic countries. The area is sparsely populated, mainly forests, fields, and pastures. The terrain becomes a bit more varied further on when the mountains begin. The road narrows to a single lane with numerous tunnels. The average speed drops to 50 km/h.

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Travel plan

From the beginning, we were aware of the time constraints, so we planned to reach Trondheim and return. Dreams of the Lofoten Islands and the Arctic Circle will remain unfulfilled unless we fly to Oslo, rent a car there, and head directly north.

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Camping through Scandinavia

A trip to Norway is rather expensive so a camper will be the most economical choice. If you split the rental costs among 4 people, a two-week stay will be manageable. In the summer months, the availability of vehicles is limited, so it is advisable to book a vehicle as early as autumn. The rental agreement is very detailed and includes regulations, which we need to study carefully to avoid misunderstandings later. A significant point is the lack of a mileage limit, which allows for flexible route planning.

The second stage is booking the ferry crossing. Ferry operators usually open their online reservation calendars 6 months in advance. If you are traveling alone, there is no need to stress, as something will be available for the planned day. In our case: a trip with four campers and two dogs is getting a bit nerve-wracking. There are special cabins for those with dogs, but their number is limited. It’s nice to travel together on one ferry to synchronize the rest of the journey. The only line that opens reservations earlier is TT-Line. Therefore, in December, we all bought tickets for the round trip on the Świnoujście - Trelleborg route.

On our smartphones, we install useful travel apps: Park4Night and EPASS24. The first one helps find decent free overnight spots. In Poland, these are often rest areas - if you decide to stay overnight, look for one without a gas station and dining options (McDonald's, KFC) - it will be quiet and peaceful. In Scandinavia, you can camp pretty much anywhere you find a spot, but we must adhere to local rules and regulations, such as being at least 100 meters from buildings. Park4Night usually contains detailed descriptions of places with comments from other travelers, making it easy to find something that meets our expectations.

EPASS24 will handle the toll payments for roads in Sweden and Norway. After creating an account, we register our camper. Please remember to indicate that the vehicle is rented and specify the usage period. This way, we can avoid accidental charges for other vehicle renters. We add our credit card for payments. After registration, the app will perform a test transaction to verify the card (with a zero charge). Payments take a long time to process, so there’s no need to worry (it can take few months after returning).

Finally, we can plan the trip taking into account our preferences and the drivers' endurance. I advise against driving longer than 400 km a day - the camper moves slowly, and 8 hours in the car will ruin the entire enjoyment of the trip. Every two to three days, it’s worth planning a stationary stay at a campsite, where we can set up camp and not move the car.

NORWAY

July 2026

by camper through Scandinavia