What do we eat in Jordan?

Hummus with various toppings

Mouttabal - roasted eggplant dip

Baba Ganoush - roasted eggplant dip with blended tomatoes, peppers, and parsley

Labneh - sour yogurt served with almost all dishes

Falafel - patties made from ground chickpeas with spices

Tabbouleh - salad made from finely chopped parsley leaves with mint, tomatoes, cucumbers, and lemon juice

Pita - bread in the form of thin flatbreads

Manakish - Arabic pizza, almost like pita but served with cheese and spices

Shawarma - meat (chicken or lamb) served in wrapped pita

Ara’yes - grilled meat (mainly lamb) also served in pita with grilled vegetables

Kofta bi tahini - meatballs made from ground meat baked with potatoes and tahini sauce

Mansaf- lamb cooked in fermented yogurt served with rice

Knafeh - dessert made from creamy cheese with spices, breaded and fried (served warm sprinkled with pistachios)

Baklava - crispy pastry sprinkled with pistachios, nuts, and drizzled with honey

Our recommendations

- Arab Tower Hotel in Amman (great receptionist who provided many valuable tips)

- Abuzagleh restaurant in Amman (great dishes at a good price)

- Monte Carlo car rental (car delivery to the hotel and transport to the airport)

- Moon Valley Site in Jerash (well-equipped private apartment with a caring host)

- Al Karak CountrySide Hotel & Resort (wonderful place to relax under the care of host LULU)

- Adel Halabi restaurant in Al Karak (delicious food and an owner who will tell you about the dishes)

- Quite Night Desert in Wadi Rum desert (great desert tour and overnight stay in tents)

- Aqaba Adventure Divers Resort (beautiful pool and great rooms)

- Dema Home in Madaba (private apartment with a caring host and his wonderful MOM).

And if you find such a document under your car's windshield, you can be sure it's a ticket for improperly parked car.

The Al Husayn Bin Ali promenade, popularly known as the tourist street, is another opportunity for shopping but also a place to relax. In numerous restaurants, you can enjoy real beer and wine from the Madaba region, which is a huge nod to tourists.

Next, we pass sacred sites with famous mosaics: the Church of the Martyrs, which is part of the archaeological park, the Church of St. George with its famous mosaic depicting a map of the ancient world, and the Church of St. John the Baptist - in our opinion, the most interesting. Entrance to the churches costs 1 JOD.

The Church of St. George is undergoing a long-term renovation. The interior is covered with protective sheets, and the mosaic with the world map can barely be seen between them. This was the biggest disappointment.

At the Church of St. John the Baptist, we have the chance to explore magnificent underground chambers that are about 3000 years old and access to the church tower with a view of the entire city.

A visit to the Madaba museum and the Church of the Apostles are the last stops on our route.

Madaba and Mount Nebo

Madaba and its surroundings are a land of churches and mosaics. Entrance to all sacred sites is charged separately in cash, and the Jordan Pass is not accepted.

We started our tour at Mount Nebo, located about 10 km from Madaba. According to tradition, Moses reached this mountain with the tribes he led, saw the promised land, but died without entering it. On the mountain, there is a sanctuary with historic mosaics. We can admire the views of the Dead Sea and its opposite shore - Israel.

On our way back to Madaba, we pass several centers - workshops where contemporary mosaics, jewelry, and local souvenirs are made. The products offered here are of higher quality than those available in shops in Amman. However, prices are high, and it’s advisable to wait to buy until returning to Madaba, where prices for similar quality are lower.

In Madaba, it’s worth starting with a visit to the tourist center. You can safely leave your car in the free parking lot. The friendly lady at the reception invites us inside and provides a map along with tips on what is worth seeing.

Following the route outlined on the map towards the archaeological park, we pass workshops and shops selling mosaics. It’s worth stopping here to do some shopping.

You cannot swim in the Dead Sea. We enter the water backwards and try to maintain our balance while slowly sitting down. We only make gentle movements to move around, and posed photos like the one above require a lot of energy to keep our heads above water. "Miraculous mud concoctions" are offered, which will make us beautiful and young.

If I haven't discouraged you yet, the further technical details will make you think about this attraction.

We leave the car on a high embankment by the road and have to descend a rather steep path to the bay. If the temperature at the top is 40 degrees, at the bottom, with no breeze, it reaches 50. Suffice it to say that after descending, my watch and phone shut down due to overheating.

The hope of cooling off in the sea evaporates upon entering the water, which is the temperature of a warm bath, after which we still have a shower waiting for us. The tank of running water, standing on the embankment by the road, heats up during the day. The shower burns us, but there is no mercy.

After the shower, we submit to having mud applied and stand in the sun. Another dip in the sea and a shower to wash off the sludge. The whole service costs 5 JOD. Oh, and we also have to climb back up the embankment to the car while drinking a liter of water along the way.

Dead Sea

It is an essential stop on every trip to Israel and Jordan. The border between both countries runs through the sea. We have heard that the beaches on the Israeli side are excellently organized. The same cannot be said for Jordan, where the access to the water is wild and unkempt. Traveling north from Aqaba to Madaba on road number 65, you can find a few beaches that offer at least some comfort.

It is important to remember that the high salinity requires caution, and a shower is necessary after swimming. Water must not get into the eyes - it requires immediate rinsing with fresh water. If even a small amount of seawater is ingested, a visit to a doctor is recommended. We swim in shoes because the sand can burn us or we may cut our feet on salt formations.

Aqaba

Aqaba, located at the end of the Gulf of Aqaba, offers little more than a fort and shops selling alcohol. The city borders Israel's Eilat and is largely bypassed by tourists heading to diving spots along the sea. The coastal strip along the sea stretches for about 30 kilometers up to the border with Saudi Arabia.

Before entering Aqaba, you will encounter border and customs control - you are entering a designated economic zone. Tourists usually only present their documents. Residents must be prepared for their cars to be searched by customs officers.

The purpose of our trip was the Aqaba Adventure Divers Resort center, where we spent two days. A fairly strong wind from Egypt blew across the Gulf of Aqaba, carrying hot air that burned our faces like being near a furnace. The pool and swimming in the sea were our only relief.

The dive center staff advised me against starting a basic diving course during such a short stay. For it to make sense and to obtain a PADI certification, you need to book a week-long stay with daily activities. So, the only option left was snorkeling.

The coral reefs in the Red Sea come almost to the shore, so there is plenty to see even at a depth of 1 meter. The fish are used to the presence of people and do not flee - they rather swim closer in hopes of getting food.

Bring swimming shoes to the beach. The bottom is rocky, and you can cut your leg on the sharp edges of the reef. Without shoes, it will be difficult to walk on the hot sand as it will burn your feet.

There are canopies set up along the shore to protect us from the sun while we take a break from swimming. The beaches are not very clean despite the presence of trash bins.

A must-see highlight of the program is the sunset and sunrise, when the desert turns a brick red.

Shared toilets do not provide much comfort mainly due to limited access to water. The tanks are located on the rocks above the campsite. Water flows down by gravity, so it barely drips from the shower. It’s worth checking the temperature beforehand as the tanks heat up in the sun and you can get burned.

Campsites are located under the rocks and spaced apart, at night there is absolute silence, broken only by the sounds of planes (there seems to be some air corridor over the desert).

There is very little space in the tents - usually two beds and a passage between them. Luggage has to be squeezed in at the front and shoes must be stored away for the night. Leather shoes are a delicacy for desert foxes, so if left outside, they will likely disappear overnight.

Breakfast and dinner are served in a large dining tent and are really good. Our host prepared a traditional dish cooked in the ground for dinner. A metal pot is placed in a deep hole. A multi-level grill with various dishes laid out on different levels (chicken, vegetables) is inserted into it. The pot is covered with a lid and buried in sand, on which a fire is lit. After about 2 hours, we dig up the fire and carefully brush the sand off the lid.

Camp owners offer tours by off-road vehicles and camels. We took advantage of both options, although riding a camel should be seen as a novelty rather than a way to explore. After just an hour, everything hurts and you long for the adventure to end. By car, you visit the most interesting places and can learn a lot from your guide. For the entire stay, we paid about 60 JOD per person.

This is a rocky desert with multicolored sand resulting from erosion. The colors range from red, through dark gray to beige. The sand is fine, like that on Baltic beaches. We move in light sneakers and wear socks. Of course, after a whole day, we empty kilograms of sand from our shoes. Flip-flops or sandals are not suitable because the sand is hot and burns the feet. The rocks are quite steep, and their size can be evidenced by the photo above, where one of the camps is located under the rock, and in the lower left corner lies a camel.

Wadi Rum often becomes the backdrop for iconic films. In 1962, "Lawrence of Arabia" was filmed there, and after its success, more productions followed, with the most famous being "Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen" (2009), "Prometheus" (2012), "The Martian" (2015), and "Rogue One: A Star Wars Story" (2016).

An essential element of the landscape is the old Mercedes tankers that roam the desert, supplying water to the camps.

Wadi Rum Desert

The Wadi Rum Desert is a reserve that we cannot enter individually. It is best to book accommodation in one of the several camps scattered under the rocks in advance. We sleep in tents resembling Bedouin tents, but in more comfortable conditions. You can book a tent with an internal bathroom and toilet or a traditional double tent with shared facilities - it all depends on your budget.

Once everything is booked, we can check in at the entrance gate to the reserve in the village of Wadi Rum at the agreed time. It is worth coordinating your arrival time with the camp owner because they will be waiting for you. Otherwise, you will be stuck in external parking. A stay in the reserve requires a Jordan Pass or an entrance fee if you do not have one.

Your car will remain in the internal parking lot, and you will transfer all necessary items to the caretaker's off-road vehicle. It is best to take all your luggage as you never know what might come in handy. In the village of Wadi Rum, you will find several restaurants, toilets, and the last shops with groceries. Before you lies only the desert.

Petra

Everything has probably already been written about Petra in guidebooks to Jordan. The city was hidden from the eyes of Europeans for centuries and was discovered in 1812 by the Swiss Ludwig Burckhardt.

Access is through the narrow As-Sik canyon, which we must traverse when leaving the city of Wadi Musa. Here is the tourist center, ticket offices, restaurants, and traditionally, souvenir shops. At the ticket office, we receive a map with a description of the available route.

As you may have noticed, most of the names I mention start with the word "Wadi". In Arabic languages, it has various spellings but a similar pronunciation "Wadi". The word means valley and is associated with a place where life has taken root among the desert sands due to a water source.

In addition to central Petra, we have the nearby Little Petra to see, which is a few kilometers away. It’s worth reserving 2 days for sightseeing, dedicating one day to Petra (which is completely sufficient) and the other to Little Petra.

An interesting option is to leave the car in the parking lot at the entrance to Petra and take a taxi. We reach Little Petra and passing through it, we enter the "Back door hiking route". It leads through the mountains to the Monastery in Petra, from where we descend and return to the parking lot. The route is about 10 kilometers long.

The Monastery in Petra is a small challenge as we enter it via 900 steps. The option of trekking from Little Petra and descending the steps down is a pleasant prospect.

In Petra, we will find many restaurants and stalls with souvenirs. For those who prefer more comfort, there are options to traverse the route on camels or donkeys. Those who seek maximum comfort can use electric vehicle rides.

Originally, Petra was inhabited by the Nabataeans, who settled here in the 4th century BC. The city was located on the trade route between Africa and Asia, which allowed it to grow rapidly. Gradually, it fell into ruin in the new era due to earthquakes and changes in trade routes. It was completely abandoned around the 12th century.

Currently, the Bdoul tribe lives in Petra, taking care of the tourist infrastructure. The Jordanian government allocated the village of Umm Sayhoun for them. Property conflicts regarding land have led to the gradual relocation of residents to caves within Petra itself. In ancient tombs, there are now stables for donkeys and camels, and in the caves, there are garages for off-road vehicles. The silence is disturbed by generators powered by diesel fuel.

In summer, the water level in the canyon is quite low, reaching up to 1 meter in the deepest areas. Depending on the prevailing conditions of the year, the opening dates of the canyon may vary, but generally, the season starts in April and ends in September. At the beginning of the season, the water level can be significantly higher in some places, and completely different than visible on the pictures below.

The starting point of the route is marked by the Wadi Mujib Adventure Centre, which we reach by descending from the main road 65 running along the Dead Sea. Parking is free, and there is a changing room on site. Therefore, we do not have to perform complicated exercises in the car at a temperature of 38 degrees.

Entry to the canyon is paid and costs 21 JOD. When purchasing a ticket, we must show our passport as only adults (18 years and older) are allowed in. Each entrant is recorded in a log and must be signed next to your name. For safety reasons, only a certain number of people can be in the canyon at the same time. During the high season, we should expect queues and several hours of waiting to enter.

There is a small shop at the centre where unprepared individuals can buy swimming shoes (about 5 JOD) and waterproof bags at the last minute.

Before entering, we are required to wear a life jacket provided by the centre.

Wadi Mujib

Wadi Mujib is the most famous canyon in Jordan. The Mujib River, which flows from the Syrian Desert, has been interrupted by the Mujib Dam. The most interesting section of the canyon runs from the dam to its outlet in the Dead Sea, but only a small part is accessible for amateur hiking (Siq Trail).

Al Karak

Located at the height of the Dead Sea, Al Karak is an excellent starting point for day trips to the canyons, Wadi Mujib reserve, and the shores of the Dead Sea.

In Al Karak itself, we must visit the Crusader castle. The ruins are impressive as we stand at the foot of the castle hill. Upon entering the castle grounds, they are somewhat disappointing due to the extensive damage done over the centuries. The compensation is the stunning view of the valleys surrounding the city. In the Middle Ages, the major trade routes intersected here, and the fortress towering above them had great strategic importance.

Entrance to the castle is free for holders of the Jordan Pass.

Around the castle, you will find many excellent restaurants and small souvenir shops.

Wadi bin Hammad

When heading out to explore the canyons, remember to bring water shoes. The ground is rocky and can be slippery. There is no way to move without proper footwear - as a last resort, you can sacrifice old sneakers or trainers.

Another essential piece of equipment is a waterproof container, backpack, or case to store documents, mobile phones, and photographic equipment.

While Wadi bin Hammad is relatively simple technically, the most famous Wadi Mujib requires considerable care regarding the equipment you bring.

Entry to Wadi bin Hammad is charged at 5 JOD. The Jordan Pass does not grant access. There are no age restrictions.

The biggest challenge will be the access road. The gravel road stretches for several kilometers through mountain serpentine curves. The climbs and descents are very steep with 180-degree turns. Finally, we have to cross the Hammad stream. The travel time for the last mountain section will be about an hour.

On-site, you can enjoy traditional coffee and tea, and there are also restrooms.

Jarash

Located to the north of Amman, the city of Jarash (ancient name Gerasa) is known for having the largest and best-preserved Roman ruins. It was the main destination of our visit to this city.

Before entering the complex, there is a large free parking area for cars and a shopping center with artistic handicrafts. There are also restaurants and a bar available. Admission is charged, but free for holders of the Jordan Pass.

The size of the archaeological site and the condition of the entire complex is surprising. You should allocate a good few hours for the visit. The entrance gates, streets (including the central crossroad), hippodrome, two amphitheaters, water supply system, and baths. With a bit of imagination, you can step back 2000 years to one of the greatest metropolises of that time. It's worth sitting on one of the hills overlooking the entire city to grasp its vastness.

The area is open and the struggle for a piece of shade is noticeable. Bring water with you, preferably with added electrolytes.

From time to time, you can come across a souvenir or cold drink vendor with portable coolers.

Cultural events are held seasonally in the amphitheaters, for which admission may be additionally charged.

Amman

Jordan is home to about 12 million people, with 6 million living in Amman. This gives an idea of the size of the city located on several hills. Amman airport is 40 km away from the city. You can reach Amman by bus, which runs every 30 minutes during the week and every hour on weekends. Tickets are purchased at a kiosk after exiting the airport. Buses arrive at the station in downtown Amman but have stops along the way, allowing you to get off at a more convenient location. This is the cheapest and quite comfortable way to travel.

At the bus station, you will be surrounded by taxi drivers (legal or not). It is advisable to use the Uber app, which guarantees the cheapest ride to your hotel.

Getting around Amman by car can be difficult, so it's worth finding a hotel in the center from where most historical places can be reached on foot.

What is worth seeing in Amman?

- The Citadel of Jabal Al-Qal’a, a Roman fortress overlooking the city

- The Temple of Hercules located within the Citadel

- The Roman Amphitheater

- The Market

- The Grand Husseini Mosque

- The King Abdullah I Mosque

- Rainbow Street

- The Old Town

Apart from the King Abdullah Mosque, the other sites are within a 20 - 30 minute walk, so you can plan a full-day itinerary without needing a car or public transport. The market and shops on Rainbow Street are open until late, as are the restaurants.

Entry to the Citadel and the Amphitheater is paid, but the Jordan Pass allows free entry. The Jordan Pass is valid for 14 days from the first use, so the controller will stamp it with the date upon your first entry.

The path from downtown Amman to the Citadel hill can be shortened by using the stairs. It's worth asking about them in souvenir shops or at the hotel.

When parking on the street, make sure to check whether and how long your car can stay. Traffic police are keen to fine cars with rental signs. Fortunately, the fines are not high (a few JOD). You can settle the fine with the rental company when returning the car.

Travel plan

In the travel plan, we tried to include the most interesting historical sites and geographical attractions. We only had 11 days, so we couldn't see everything.

Amman

Jerash

Al Karak

Wadi bin Hammad

Wadi Mujib

Petra

Wadi Rum

Aqaba (Red Sea)

Dead Sea

Madaba

JORDAN

July 2023

travel memories and some practical tips.

A few things to know before flying to Jordan

The official currency is the Jordanian Dinar, known as JOD. The exchange rate is quite high and currently stands at nearly 7 PLN. It's advisable to get some Dinars before your flight, as cash will be useful upon landing at the airport in Amman or Aqaba. Local banks and exchange offices accept Euros and Dollars. Usually, the exchange rate is similar, and don't be fooled by exceptionally favorable prices, as they are often associated with high commissions. When exchanging money, you must show your passport. Payments in local markets using any currency other than JOD are virtually impossible. Credit cards are accepted in shops, tourist attractions, and gas stations.

Be sure to purchase a "Jordan Pass" online before your trip. It serves as an entry visa and a free pass to many tourist attractions. The Jordan Pass can also be bought at the visa control point at the airport, but it is more expensive there. There are 3 options available (70, 75, and 80 JOD), which determine the number of days allocated for visiting Petra (1, 2, or 3 days). One day to explore Petra may not be sufficient. The Jordan Pass needs to be printed.

At the airport, buy a SIM card with internet access, which will allow you to use navigation during your travels. It’s a good idea to choose an option with calling so you can contact the car rental company in case of a breakdown or the hotel you are heading to.

Take medication for food poisoning with you. Our bacterial flora is quite different, and even with good hygiene (e.g., brushing teeth with bottled water), we cannot avoid food poisoning.

This is an Islamic country, so consuming alcohol in public places is prohibited. The import limit is 1 liter of vodka per person. You won't be able to buy alcohol anywhere except in designated shops in Amman, Madaba, and Aqaba. Non-alcoholic beer is available, but even that is wrapped in a gray bag if you want to drink it on a bench in the park. Alcohol is expensive (a 0.33-liter bottle of beer costs around 25 PLN).

It's worth paying attention to clothing. We do not wear shorts and skirts. Women should cover their arms and hair. This is not strictly enforced, but appropriate attire will be appreciated by the locals. Additionally, it protects against the harsh sun.

Public transport is poorly organized, so renting a car will be necessary, which is best arranged before your flight. Often, you can arrange to pick up the car at your accommodation (delivered by the agency's agent to your hotel, for example). When returning the car, you can also arrange for the agent to take you to the airport. The cost of renting a car is one of the larger expenses of the entire trip. It's also worth considering additional insurance. We drive slowly, being particularly careful of pedestrians and animals. The roads are difficult (lack of lanes) and dotted with "sleeping policemen" in the least expected places. Even on so-called highways, bumps are frequent. Expect numerous road checks, which sometimes end with just greetings, but document checks can also occur.

A somewhat embarrassing topic, but every toilet is equipped with a bidet. Toilet paper is used to dry your bottom after washing and should be thrown into special waste bins. Given the prevailing temperatures, this is a very good solution.

Summer temperatures can reach up to 45 degrees Celsius. A good time for sightseeing is May, June, or September, October. Our trip in July was quite a challenge, but there are many fewer tourists off-season, and we didn't have to stand in lines. The climate is very dry, so even at 40 degrees, we are unlikely to sweat.