Milan

The one-day visit to Milan aimed to see Leonardo da Vinci's famous fresco "The Last Supper." It is located in the refectory of the Dominican monastery at the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

The work was created intermittently between 1494 and 1498 on the commission of Duke Ludovico Sforza of Milan. Due to an unsuitable painting technique and the plaster substrate, the painting quickly deteriorated and was barely visible by 1550. In 1652, a passage to the kitchen was cut into the central part of the wall, irreparably destroying a fragment of the table and Christ's feet. Over the centuries, various rescue efforts were undertaken, with the last restoration work lasting 21 years and completed in 1999.

We left the car near the cathedral and, without a map, began searching for the monastery and basilica by asking locals for directions (the absence of Google Maps and GPS in 2006 was quite a challenge). To our surprise, most of those we asked had no idea what we were talking about. No one recognized either the monastery or Leonardo da Vinci's work - so we were somewhat lost. Only when we were nearby did we receive precise directions from a small private shop. It was just a 25-minute walk from the cathedral.

Another surprise was the lack of a queue at the ticket office, which seemed suspicious. We asked for 6 tickets, and the lady asked for when? Of course, for today. And here came the full smile of the cashier - the next available time for a visit is in 3 months. But there’s nobody here! The reason is that to protect the painting, only a few small groups are allowed in each day.

So if you want to see the fresco, first go to https://santa-maria-delle-grazie-tickets.com/#tours and buy tickets. As I write this on April 9, I see the next available date is May 13 at 2:00 PM - there is only one ticket left for 800 PLN.

From the entire trip, we were left with only the purchase of a reproduction at the souvenir shop.

Our recommendations

- The Chapel of Bones and the catacombs in Rome

- The Colosseum, Roman Forum, Vatican, Trastevere

- Trip to the beach in Lido

- Vaporetto rides in Venice

- Doge's Palace, prison, and St. Mark's Campanile

- Visit to Burano

- Bacareto da Lele in Venice (the best Bruschetta I've ever had).

What is worth eating?

- Pizza (it's worth trying every kind - even the simplest ones like with potatoes)

- Pasta, which means noodles in various forms (spaghetti - thin noodles and fettuccine - ribbon noodles, toppings are optional)

- Ragù - tomato sauce with meat added to pasta

- Gnocchi - the equivalent of our dumplings but much smaller with various sauces

- Antipasto (starters like cold cuts, cheeses, olives, pickled and fresh vegetables, bread, sauces, oil)

- Lasagna (multi-layered dish with lasagna noodles)

- fruits of the sea

- Bruschetta (small sandwiches with cold cuts - perfect for breakfast).

We had a bit of time to visit the cathedral and the gallery of Victor Emmanuel II. St. Mary’s Cathedral is one of the largest churches in the world, measuring 157 meters long and 93 meters wide. The roof is open for tours. Unfortunately, during our visit, it was partially under renovation and covered with scaffolding. Construction began in 1386 and lasted almost 200 years, although over the following centuries, additional minor details were added, the last one in 1965. The entrance ticket costs about 80 PLN.

In the eastern part of the floor, there is a meridian line built in 1786 by astronomers from Brera. An opening in the ceiling on the southern wall lets in a sunbeam. It crosses the line at 12 o'clock, which in the past signaled a cannon shot, according to which all the clocks in the city were set. Current studies indicate that the accuracy of the sundial is 2 seconds.

In 1805, Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned in the cathedral as King of Italy. On this occasion, he commissioned the decoration of the facade with pelicans, which was to be funded by the French treasury. The costs were never reimbursed, although in advance, a bust of him was placed on one of the spires as a token of gratitude.

The Victor Emmanuel II galleries, opened in 1877, are the oldest "shopping center" in Italy. On 4 floors, you can find all the well-known shops and restaurants in the world. The oldest survived crises and wars, like the Borsalino hats from 1883.

After passing through the galleries, we exit onto the square with the La Scala opera house. It is one of the most famous stages in the world, opened in August 1778. It has a seating capacity of 3600. Many operas by Puccini, Rossini, and Verdi were specially written for La Scala.

Burano is the most colorful place I have ever visited. The traditional story says that local fishermen used distinctive colors to paint their houses so they could be easily found even in thick fog. On sunny days, the colors of the houses put everyone in a cheerful mood, even if it’s the last day of vacation and it's time to head home.

Another striking feature is the fabric awnings covering the entrances to the houses. On hot days, the doors are often ajar to create a draft, while the awning effectively shields the interior from curious eyes. Additionally, it protects the varnished wood from the damaging rays of the sun, and in winter, it provides extra insulation.

The leaning church tower gives the impression that it is about to topple over. Built in the 17th century, standing 53 meters tall, it leans 1.83 meters off its axis at the top. The square base, measuring 6.20 meters on each side, ensures that the pinnacle remains within its boundaries and poses no risk of collapsing.

Murano and Burano - two islands near Venice that we can visit by water tram, which first arrives at Murano. The journey takes about 30 minutes.

Murano is a group of 7 interconnected islands treated by tourists as one island divided by canals. It has been famous since the Middle Ages for glassmaking, since all glassworks were moved from Venice to prevent fires. The Greeks and Romans made very rough and cloudy glass. It was only the melting technologies developed in Murano in the 13th century that allowed for the production of transparent glass and crystal glass.

Today, several glass factories and workshops operate on the island, offering their unique products. Prices for original small vessels start at several dozen Euros and can go up to several hundred. It is worth walking along the main canals and peeking into a few workshops - everyone is sure to find something interesting as a souvenir or gift.

Halfway to Murano, we pass a small islet called San Michele - the cemetery island. The idea of locating a cemetery there came from Napoleon Bonaparte, who recognized the need to build a cemetery for Venetians at a distance that would allow them to frequently visit their deceased. Representatives of all faiths and non-believers are buried here.

The waterways to the neighboring islets are marked by poles driven into the lagoon's bottom and lit at night.

The Arsenal along with the docks is located at the northeastern tip of the island and is often overlooked by tourists. In some corners, it is quite deserted, especially during siesta when most restaurants are closed.

Construction of the arsenal and shipyard began in the 12th century. Initially, warships and trading vessels were built here for the Republic of Venice. Over time, factories were established to produce weapons and ammunition as well as cannon foundries. It was the largest production center of the pre-industrial era, employing around 16,000 people.

At the beginning of September, there are regattas of historic boats in Venice, and we happened to catch a glimpse of such a spectacle at the Arsenal.

On our way back, we passed through San Geremia Square and next to the Teatro Italia, which was built in the early 20th century and initially served as a cinema, ultimately ending up as a supermarket.

The Rialto is the oldest bridge over the Grand Canal and was the only one until the Academy Bridge was built in 1854. Initially, it was a temporary crossing built on barges. In the 12th century, the first permanent wooden bridge on stilts was constructed. Because a mint was nearby, the bridge was named Ponte della Moneta.

The wooden bridge suffered multiple damages and by the end of the 16th century was replaced by a brick bridge that has survived to this day. It is 48 meters long and 22 meters wide. It rests on a single concrete arch, supported by 6,000 oak piles driven into the canal bed. The bridge has 3 rows of stairs, with the middle row being lined with shops (currently mainly souvenirs and jewelry).

The clock tower in St. Mark's Square was erected between 1496 and 1506. Two statues of Moors at its top strike the bell every hour. The astronomical clock not only shows the time but also the phases of the moon, the seasons, and the position of the sun in the subsequent zodiac signs. On the Feast of the Epiphany, a special mechanism above the clock activates the procession of the Three Kings, which runs for another week.

The architecture of St. Mark's Square is complemented by the buildings of the Old and New Procuracies, which date back to the 15th and 16th centuries, respectively. The expanding offices of the Republic of Venice forced the authorities to gradually relocate offices from the Doge's Palace. After the city was captured by Napoleon, the square was closed off by a building named in his honor "Napoleon's Wing." On the ground floor, there are many prestigious restaurants and cafes that, due to their location, are known for their high prices.

The Campanile of St. Mark's is the tallest structure in Venice. From a height of nearly 100 meters, we can view the entire area. Built between the 9th and 12th centuries, it gradually fell into disrepair until it collapsed on July 14, 1902. Its reconstruction from 1903 to 1912 was carried out using modern methods, preserving only the external shape of the original building.

Bridge of Sighs owes its name to the sighs of prisoners being led to the dungeons. Through the lattice-like skylights, they had a last chance to glance at the city before serving their sentence. Usually, they no longer had the opportunity to see daylight. Even if they were sentenced to several years, the conditions in the dungeons did not offer much chance of survival.

The Doge's Palace - the seat of the authorities of Venice - was initially a defensive structure built in 814 on the site of a Byzantine castle. It has been rebuilt multiple times after numerous fires and took on its current shape in the 17th century. Currently, it houses a museum where, in addition to the frescoed rooms, you can see the armory and walk across the Bridge of Sighs to the prison. On the frieze in the assembly hall, we find portraits of 76 doges. The portrait of doge Marino Faliero is covered with black drapery. The ruler was beheaded in 1355 for conspiring against the republic.

St. Mark's Square is the central point of the city. It hosts the main historical attractions - the basilica, the bell tower, the clock tower, and the Doge's Palace. Ticket prices vary greatly. "Combo" tickets are available that include entry to several places, including museums. We opted for entry to the Doge's Palace and the prison (about 30 Euros) as well as the Campanile bell tower (about 16 Euros). St. Mark's Cathedral was partially under renovation, which discouraged us from visiting the interior. There was a temporary exhibition of the German artist Anselm Kiefer at the Doge's Palace that was impossible to miss.

The Carnival in Venice dates back to the traditions of the 15th century. The custom of dressing up and hiding one's identity behind masks may originate from the mandatory face covering for women in the East, which came to the city after the conquest of Constantinople. However, it is more likely that before Lent, the city authorities wanted to ease the social divisions between the poor and the aristocracy. Under disguise, anyone could freely pretend to be someone else, which was eagerly taken advantage of by bored married women and clergy coming from all over Europe for the occasion.

Over time, the carnival period was shortened to a few weeks, and bans were introduced against entering churches, inns, and casinos in costume. Under severe penalties, men were forbidden to dress as women and enter female monasteries. In later periods, a ban was introduced on wearing cloaks over bare bodies, hiding weapons under cloaks, and dressing as the opposite sex. Subsequent prohibitions indicate a significant loosening of morals during the carnival, which began to spiral out of control of the rulers. After Napoleon conquered Venice, wearing masks and disguises was completely forbidden. The custom returned to the city only in 1979.

Traditional masks derive from commedia dell'arte: the servant Columbina, Harlequin, Dottore, Pantalone. The Dottore mask with its characteristic long nose has its roots in the period of the plague epidemic. Doctors, wanting to avoid infection, wore masks with beaks filled with herbs.

The most important monuments of Venice that we should not miss are:

- St. Mark's Basilica and Square

- St. Mark's Campanile that we must climb

- Clock Tower

- Doge's Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and the prison

- vaporetto ride on the Grand Canal

- Rialto Bridge

- Arsenal

Among the main attractions is also a gondola ride, which usually lasts from 30 to 45 minutes. A private ride costs 80 Euros and accommodates 5 people (16 Euros per person). If you are in a small group, there are usually solo couples waiting at the gondola docks looking for others to form a 5-person group to save on costs. You can also book a 30-minute group ride for 6 people, but then the cost will be 30 Euros per person, and the rides only take place outside of peak hours.

With a few days at our disposal, we don't need to plan our sightseeing in detail. Wandering along the canals will lead us to all the most interesting places anyway. It's worth reserving some time for a visit to the islands of Murano and Burano. We must definitely reach the port and the arsenal at the end of the island, where there are usually far fewer tourists and we can take a break from the hustle and bustle.

From 726 to 1797, the city was the capital of the Venetian Republic, which, during its peak from the 13th to the 16th century, was a trading and maritime power in the Mediterranean region. Many monuments from this period have survived, and combined with its location on a lagoon with numerous islands and canals, it constitutes a world-class tourist attraction.

The city-state was founded by Italians, Greeks, and Slavs fleeing from the invasion of barbarian tribes in 452. From its inception, it was a multi-ethnic state with a high degree of religious and cultural tolerance. The republic was governed by a doge (duke) elected by the aristocracy for a lifetime term. However, throughout history, there have been many instances where the ruler was forced to resign early.

In the 13th century, the Venetian Marco Polo reached China. The monopoly on silk and spice trade was only broken by the Portuguese after Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to India in the 15th century. From that moment, Venice's significance began to gradually decline. The republic was conquered by Napoleon in 1797, and after his fall, it was annexed to Austria. It was the longest-existing republic in world history.

The historical part of the city along with the lagoon is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since the mid-20th century, the population has been declining due to the burdens associated with tourism and currently stands at below 50,000. Venice is systematically being flooded by the waters of the Adriatic Sea. To prevent this, a massive system of lock-barriers is being constructed, which are raised from the seabed. Another threat is the gradual subsidence of the city, caused by the industrialization of the Mestre - Marghera area. Large factories draw groundwater for technological purposes, destabilizing the lagoon's foundation. Since the early 20th century, St. Mark's Basilica has subsided by 18 centimeters, and the houses along the Grand Canal (Canal Grande) by 21 centimeters.

Venice

The city is overwhelmed by the influx of tourists and starting from May 1, 2024, it has introduced an entrance ticket and a limit on the number of tickets sold daily. The price of a single ticket is 5 Euros and it can be purchased in advance through the website https://cda.ve.it.

During our stay in 2022, there were rumors about plans to introduce fees, but the date was postponed several times. We stayed on the mainland right by the causeway leading to the island in the town of Marghera. Hotel prices are lower than in Venice itself, and the bus ride to the island takes 30 minutes.

We were persuaded to buy a 3-day ticket for all means of transport including water trams (vaporetto). At first, the expense of 45 Euros seemed excessive, but by the first day, it was almost paid off since a 75-minute ticket on the vaporetto costs 9.5 Euros.

Marco Polo Airport, which serves regular airlines, is also located on the mainland. The bus ride to Venice costs between 10 to 15 Euros depending on the chosen operator. You can also take a water taxi, but the fare is 35 Euros. Budget airlines use Treviso Airport, which is 40 kilometers from Venice, but the bus ride is cheaper and costs 9 Euros.

When moving around Venice on the vaporetto water trams, it's worth familiarizing yourself with the schedule. There are several lines, and the plan resembles the metro in London or Paris. Trams do not stop at all stops and change sides of the canals, so our first attempts at traveling were somewhat traumatic and ended with an unplanned visit to another location. Traveling by tram allows you to see the city from a different perspective, especially when navigating the largest canals or traveling to the islands of Murano and Burano.

Due to the numerous bridges, stairs, and narrow crowded alleys, I definitely advise against moving around with small children in strollers.

Through the Borghese park, we headed towards Piazza del Popolo. Villa Borghese is one of the most popular and the third largest park in Rome. Its history dates back to the early 17th century, but it took its current shape after renovations at the end of the 19th century. The structures located within the park have been built in modern times. On hot days, it is a great place to relax.

Piazza del Popolo has been a site of executions over the years (the last one took place in 1826). The central feature of the square is an Egyptian obelisk, which arrived in Rome in 10 BC from Heliopolis. It was moved here from the Circus Maximus in 1589, and at the beginning of the 19th century, sculptures of lions were placed at its base.

In the southern part of the square stand two twin churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The third, the oldest church from 1099, is located on the northern side.

During the Roman Empire, the most important road from the north led to the square, passing through the city gate Porta Flamina, now known as Porta del Popolo. Thus, the square was the first image of Rome for arriving pilgrims.

Resting by the stone lions and the fountain in the center of the square was the last point of our visit.

We reach Republic Square via National Avenue. The center of the square is adorned with the Naiadi fountain from 1901, surrounded by monumental buildings from the 19th century, characteristic of the period of the capital's reconstruction after the unification of Italy.

The Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels and Martyrs is integrated into the ruins of the Baths of Diocletian. The works were directed by Michelangelo until his death in 1564. The main nave is 91 meters long. In the 18th century, the astronomer Francesco Bianchini incorporated a line of the meridian into the floor of the nave, which serves as a precise sundial. A ray of sunlight illuminates the line through a special roof opening and a cut in the cornice. The clock was meant to precisely determine the date of Easter. The Foucault pendulum was suspended in 2008. The change in the plane of the pendulum's motion proves the Earth's rotation around its own axis.

In the 16th century, the hill was so neglected that sheep were grazed on it. Its renovation was entrusted to Michelangelo, whose design from 1536 has survived to this day. The entrance to the square, paved with black and white cobblestones in the shape of a star, is flanked by the Cordonata steps and the statues of Castor and Pollux on both sides. Originally, there were two palaces on the square - directly opposite was the Palace of the Senators and to the right was the Palace of the Conservators. To architecturally complete the whole, Michelangelo added the New Palace on the left side.

The Palaces of the Conservators and the New Palace house the Capitoline Museums, while the Palace of the Senators is where the city authorities are based. The Capitoline Wolf, proudly gazing towards the Roman Forum, was a symbol of the power of the Roman Empire. The Capitoline Hill ends on the western side with the Tarpeian Rock, from which traitors were thrown.

At the Quirinal Square, we pass the fountain of Castor and Pollux adorned with another Egyptian obelisk made of red granite.

The Capitoline Hill overlooks the Roman Forum from the northwest. At the foot of the hill, the main street Via Sacra ends as it passes through the Forum.

The Capitol has been a symbol of Rome since its inception. A fortress and the main sanctuary were located here. The legend of the Capitoline geese states that the birds warned the sleeping defenders of the Gallic attack. As a reward, one of the geese was paraded in a litter, while the dogs that slept and failed to raise the alarm were punished.

In the narrow streets of Trastevere, we can find plenty of small restaurants serving traditional Italian dishes. It's worth taking a break here for lunch.

We returned to the Ripa district via the Quattro Capi bridge to see the ruins of the Theatre of Marcellus. Completed in 13 BC, the structure could accommodate around 13 thousand spectators across 3 tiers. By the 8th century, only ruins remained, with a preserved section of the audience area. This was incorporated into the building of the Savellich Palace in the 16th century. Until the late 1920s, markets operated in the ground floor arcades.

After successful shopping, we moved to Trastevere to climb to the Acqua Paola fountain. It was built in 1612 as the terminus of the aqueduct of the same name. It was the main source of water for the residents of the Janiculum hill. The fountain is hard to reach because a fairly busy street separates it from the sidewalk. Pedestrians are shooed away by the gendarmerie, and it's better not to argue with them.

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the oldest churches in Rome, built between 340 and 352 AD. The church has been remodeled multiple times, and in 1291, the facade was adorned with mosaics. The decorative coffered ceilings were made in 1617. The clock located on the second level of the bell tower is about 250 years old.

Day four

We tried to make the most of our last day here. The weather was also favorable, as the morning greeted us with light rain and a pleasant temperature.

To get to the market at Campo di Fiori, we walked through Piazza Navona, passing the Madama Palace, which houses the Senate of the Italian Parliament. In the central part of the square stands a monument to Giordano Bruno, who was burned at the stake here in 1600. Bruno's astronomical hypotheses, close to Copernicus' theory, were far ahead of their time and caused concern among the clergy.

The market has a long tradition. Besides flowers and vegetables, we have a wide selection of souvenirs, ranging from traditional Limoncello liqueurs, through honey and spices, to clothing.

We only rested by the Triton fountain in Barberini Square while waiting for the guide. The tour to the Capuchin Crypt and the catacombs on the Appian Way costs around 70 Euros, including the guide's fees and bus transport. The skull crypt makes an incredible impression. It contains the bones of about 4,000 monks. Taking photos is strictly prohibited and enforced by the guide - the ones shown here are from the Internet. The catacombs along the Appian Way date back to Roman times, but the tradition of burying the dead in underground tunnels was adopted by Christianity. I highly recommend this tour. After our nighttime visits to the underground, we happily returned to our apartment.

We had to quickly interrupt our peaceful rest and admire the view of Rome because we had a reserved tour of the catacombs starting from Barberini Square. We began a frantic dash through the city, passing by the Castel Sant'Angelo along the way.

In Monte Citorio Square stands (we are already used to this) the Egyptian obelisk from the 6th century BC made of red granite. It was transported from the temple of Ra in Heliopolis in 10 BC on the orders of Emperor Augustus. Next is Colonna Square and the column of Marcus Aurelius, modeled after Trajan's column. It was erected in AD 196 and commemorates the emperor's victories over barbarian tribes. A spiral relief with battle scenes winds along the 30-meter structure, on top of which a statue of St. Paul was placed in 1589.

After the splendid sidewalk feast, we set off for Janiculum Hill. It is the highest of the Roman hills, which was initially located outside the city limits. In the 17th century, it was surrounded by walls by Pope Urban VIII and became a residential district with beautiful gardens. Over time, monasteries began to be built here as well. After regaining independence and the unification of Italy, monuments were erected on the hill for distinguished individuals. Since 1904, a cannon shot has been fired daily at noon from the hill.

The Janiculum Lighthouse stands 20 meters tall and once allowed visitors to climb to its top. The lighthouse shines in three colors of the Italian flag.

The first early Christian basilica was built by Emperor Constantine the Great around the year 324. According to tradition, it was situated over the grave of St. Peter. At that time, it was located outside the borders of Rome. After being plundered by Arab pirates in 846, the Vatican hill was surrounded by defensive walls.

By the early 16th century, the technical condition of the building was already very poor and threatened to collapse. Pope Julius II decided to demolish it and construct a new basilica in its place. During the demolition work, many monuments and the graves of saints were destroyed. The construction lasted over 100 years from 1506 to 1626. The project concept was changed multiple times by successive architects (Donato Bramante, Raphael Santi, Baldassare Peruzzi, Michelangelo, Carlo Maderno, and several others).

It is the second largest church in the world, covering an area of 23,000 square meters. The main nave measures 186 by 27 meters. Above the entrance is a hall connected to the papal palace. From its central window, the pope gives the blessing "To the City and the World."

The interior of the basilica, designed in the Renaissance-Baroque style, impresses with its vastness and magnificent decorations. It is impossible to list all the works of art, so I will mention only Michelangelo's sculpture "Pietà," which he created at the age of 24 while still completely unknown. The sculpture is protected by a bulletproof glass after being damaged by a madman in 1972.

In the center of the basilica, above the grave of St. Peter, stands a canopy designed by Bernini. It is the largest artistic bronze casting in the world, nearly 29 meters tall.

Behind the canopy is the entrance to the Vatican grottoes, which we can visit without an additional ticket. The exit is already outside the basilica, so it is worth saving this part for last. The grottoes contain the tombs of many popes and the symbolic grave of St. Peter. Currently, there is no evidence that St. Peter was buried there.

The central dome of the basilica, with a diameter of 42 meters, is supported by four pillars. Outside the dome is a viewing terrace accessed by 551 steps. You can also use an elevator, which leaves only 320 steps to climb. An additional ticket must be purchased for 8 or 10 Euros, depending on whether you want to take the elevator.

From the basilica, we exit to St. Peter's Square, surrounded by Bernini's colonnade built between 1656 and 1667. The top of the colonnade is adorned with 140 statues of saints. The central place of the square is occupied by another Egyptian obelisk dating back to the 13th century BC.

The history of its transportation to Rome on the orders of Emperor Caligula begins in the year 37 AD. Since the obelisk weighs 487 tons and measures almost 26 meters, a special single-masted ship was constructed for its transport, considered a marvel of engineering at the time. It had a displacement of 2,500 tons, and the mast had a circumference that required four men to embrace it. For ballast, the ship used 60,000 measures of lentils. After being transported to Rome in 41 AD, around 20,000 people participated in moving and setting it up in Nero's Circus. It was not until 1586 that the obelisk reached St. Peter's Square.

After visiting the Vatican, we decided to take a short break and rest. We chose the famous pizzeria Bonci, which has only two locations: Rome and Chicago. Don’t expect a pizza place in the way we understand it. Pizza Bonci in Rome is sold from a window on the street. You can sit at most on the curb or on the grass. There is also no toilet, and after a whole morning spent sightseeing, you won’t wash your hands before eating. However, the pizza is unique, as the menu depends on the temporarily available ingredients and the owners' creativity. Italian pizza does not have 10 ingredients like in Poland; 3 is already a lot. Pizza Bianca is just the dough drizzled with olive oil to taste. It can be pizza only with roasted potatoes or tomato and basil - compared to our pizzas, the choice is very modest, but the quality of the dough is excellent.

The Sistine Chapel, built between 1475 and 1483 on the orders of Pope Sixtus IV, took its name from the founder’s name. From the beginning, it was intended for important church ceremonies, and today it is most associated with the Conclave, the election of a new pope. For this occasion, a special stove connected to a chimney is placed inside. Black smoke informs the faithful that a new pope has not been elected, while white smoke confirms the election of a pope.

Theoretically, any baptized man in the world can become pope. Practically, the pope is elected by the voting cardinals from their ranks. During the Conclave, the cardinals are locked inside the chapel.

Visiting the chapel is, to put it mildly, "not very comfortable." Groups of tourists are "packed" inside regardless of whether they are guided tours or individuals with tickets. When the room is filled to capacity, the entrance doors are closed, and viewing of the interior begins. A priest standing on a raised platform closely monitors whether anyone attempts to take photos (using mobile phones is also prohibited). Conversations are forbidden, so every now and then a request for silence is reiterated from the pulpit. After a specified time, the audience is "swapped" for a new group.

At the end of the chapel, there are small doors marked with a notice prohibiting entry for individual tourists. Groups with a guide can use them to proceed directly from the chapel to St. Peter's Basilica. In the crowd, it is easy to stick to a large organized group and "sneak" into the basilica. I recommend this solution because otherwise, you will have to end your museum tour and enter the basilica from St. Peter's Square.

The greatest treasure of the chapel is the frescoes. The side walls were decorated by artists from Tuscany and Umbria between 1481 and 1483. They depict scenes from the Old and New Testaments.

The frescoes on the ceiling and the wall opposite the entrance were painted by Michelangelo. The artist was in conflict with Pope Julius II after the contract for the design and construction of the tomb was canceled. Michelangelo considered himself primarily a sculptor, and painting frescoes was not among his main interests. Nevertheless, he accepted the commission and began work on the ceiling in 1508. Frequently urged by the pope, he completed the work in 1512. The frescoes depict the biblical story from the creation of the world through original sin to the flood.

The wall directly opposite the entrance is adorned with the fresco "The Last Judgment," painted on the commission of Pope Clement VII between 1536 and 1541.

The photos next to this text are not my own and, for obvious reasons, I copied them from the Internet.

We ended the day at the Spanish Steps built in 1725. They are among the longest (138 steps) and widest stairs in Europe, second only to those in Odessa. This place is frequently visited by tourists. Fashion shows are held here, in spring it is adorned with floral decorations, and in winter - a Christmas crib. In 2019, the city council introduced a ban on eating and sitting on the steps.

Day three

We began the third day of our stay by visiting the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter's Basilica. The price of a ticket that skips the entrance line is 49.19 Euros. The ticket does not include a guide, but it is still difficult to follow the group in the crowds present in the museums and chapel. The museum exhibition has a linear corridor layout, which increases chaos and congestion at the most interesting exhibits.

We start with the Picture Gallery, which is the building of the Pinacoteca. In the room dedicated to Raphael, there is a collection of tapestries that previously adorned and warmed the Sistine Chapel. In addition to the tapestries, there are also paintings by the artist, including the most famous "Transfiguration."

The only painting by Leonardo da Vinci in the collection, "Saint Jerome in the Desert," has a very interesting history. It was discovered in two fragments. The head cut from the painting was the top of a stool in a shoemaker's workshop. The remaining part served as the lid of a chest at an antique dealer's.

Another famous painting is Caravaggio's "The Entombment of Christ." As usual with this artist, the figures emerge from the darkness, creating a characteristic gloomy atmosphere.

From the external terrace of the Pinacoteca, we have an excellent view of the dome of St. Peter's Basilica. It stands 132 meters high and is the tallest structure in Rome. An unwritten law states that no building can be taller than it.

After leaving the Pinacoteca, we pass through a courtyard with a contemporary sculpture by Arnaldo Pomodoro depicting a rotating sphere. A similar sculpture by the same artist can be seen in the Royal Baths in Warsaw.

The Pio-Clementino Museum in the Belvedere Palace is filled with ancient sculptures, the most famous of which are Apollo, the Laocoön group, and the Belvedere Torlonia. Laocoön - the priest of Troy warned the defenders about the horse given by the Greeks. The Greek goddess Athena sent two snakes to silence the priest. The Belvedere Torlonia is a fragment of a male figure found in Rome in the 15th century.

In the Round Room, there is a massive basin made of Egyptian red porphyry, whose original purpose we do not know. It could have been a fountain or a bathtub from one of the imperial houses. In the Round Room and the next Greek Cross Room, we move across magnificent mosaics.

After the stairs, we reach the Gallery of Maps, which impressed me the most. The maps depict Italy in the 16th century, and the ceiling, drowning in opulent decorations, shows scenes from the lives of Italian saints.

Before entering the Sistine Chapel, we pass a room with a Polish accent. The largest painting in the Vatican Museums hangs there - "The Siege of Vienna" by Jan Matejko. The painting was presented to Pope Leo XIII on the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Vienna.

Piazza Navona was built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, constructed in 86 AD on the Campus Martius. Athletic competitions were held there. The current buildings of the square were created in the 17th century while retaining the dimensions of the stadium, which are 54 by 276 meters. Until the mid-19th century, a market operated in the square, moved from the Capitol.

The square features three fountains: the Fountain of Moors, the Fountain of Neptune, and the centrally located Fountain of the Four Rivers, topped by another Egyptian obelisk brought by Emperor Domitian from the temple of Serapis.

The next stop was the Church of St. Louis King of France, famous for its three darkly themed paintings by Caravaggio.

In the square of the Rotunda in front of the Pantheon stands another fountain adorned with the obelisk of Ramses II, relocated from the Temple of Ra in Heliopolis. To this day, 8 ancient Egyptian obelisks have survived in Rome.

The Pantheon is one of the best-preserved buildings of ancient Rome. The original undamaged concrete dome, with a diameter of 43 meters, is the largest unreinforced dome in the world. The circular opening at the top has a diameter of 8 meters. The building was dedicated to planetary deities and the emperor. Since the 7th century, it has been used as a Catholic church and houses the tombs of King Victor Emmanuel II, Raphael, and Peruzzi. As of July 2023, entry to the Pantheon is paid and costs 5 Euros.

The name Colosseum derives from the "colossal" statue of Nero that stood in front of the amphitheater, which, according to descriptions, measured 35 meters. The bronze sculpture was erected in 64 AD and has been preserved on many Roman coins. The exact date of the statue's destruction is unknown, but it must have occurred before the end of the 10th century.

After leaving the Colosseum, we headed down the Via dei Fori Imperiali towards Trajan's Column, passing the Forum of Augustus and the Forum of Trajan along the way. Trajan's Markets, built in the 2nd century AD, had 6 levels and contained offices and possibly schools, in addition to shops. The column was erected in 113 AD to commemorate the emperor's victories over the Dacians. It holds an urn with his ashes in its base. The statue of the emperor that stood at the top was removed by Christians in 392 AD, and in its place, St. Peter was installed in 1587.

The column stands nearly 40 meters tall and consists of 17 marble rings. The internal spiral staircase with 185 steps leads to an observation deck that is not open to the public. The column is adorned with an external relief in the form of a spiral with 23 coils. The bas-relief tells a continuous story of the course of two victorious campaigns against the Dacians. The length of the coil is almost 200 meters, and the emperor's silhouette appears 90 times within it. The width of the lower coils is 89 centimeters and gradually increases to 125 centimeters at the very top. The 2500 figures, which gradually get larger, create the impression for the viewer below that they are all the same size.

Opposite Trajan's Column stands "Il Vittoriano" - a palace whose façade is adorned with a monument to Victor Emmanuel II - the first king of unified Italy. This building is relatively modern in the context of the city's history, as it was constructed between 1885 and 1925. The palace houses memorabilia from the period of the struggles for the unification of the country.

Strolling along Via del Corso, we turned onto Via delle Muratte and reached the Trevi Fountain. It's hard to push through the crowd of tourists to the edge, but if you manage to do so, you can take a break from the heat. It is the largest fountain in Rome (26 meters high, almost 50 meters long). Construction was completed in 1762 and lasted exactly 30 years.

Day Two

With a 24-hour ticket in our pocket, we started the day by visiting the Colosseum. This is the cheapest ticket, so it does not include a guide, and not all areas are accessible to us. Nevertheless, it is necessary to reserve at least 3 hours for the visit, including 30 minutes of waiting in line to enter.

This most iconic structure in Rome was built between 72-90 AD. It was the largest ancient amphitheater, capable of holding up to 80,000 spectators. It remains a model of engineering approach to the design of sports facilities. With 80 entrances and a proper layout of corridors, it allows such a large audience to exit the stands in less than 6 minutes.

Initially, the arena was just a sandy stage. Over time, two underground levels were added beneath it, which were covered by a wooden floor. The underground areas contained rooms for gladiators and wild animals, which were brought in from outside through a special corridor. A separate corridor was designated for the emperor and his entourage so they could take their place in the honor stands without mixing with the crowd at the entrances.

A system of lifts delivered animals and people to the arena. Reports also mention a hydraulic solution that allowed the arena to be flooded with water in a matter of minutes to simulate a naval battle. This has not been confirmed based on current research.

The last games took place in 528 AD. Later, a small church was built in the center of the arena, and the arena itself was used as a cemetery. Around the year 1200, the walls were partially fortified, and the Colosseum began to be used as a castle. In 1744, it was declared a site of martyrdom for Christians, and on Good Friday, processions led by the Pope began to be organized here.

The martyrdom of Christians at the Colosseum is merely a myth often described in novels. Executions of common criminals were carried out in the arena, whereas if the first Christians were murdered, it took place in the Circus Maximus.

Rome is served by two airports: Ciampino (low-cost airlines) and Fiumicino (the main airport for regular carriers).

From the Ciampino airport, located 15 km away, we can reach the city center by public transport. Buses 520 or 720 will take you to various metro stations. A single ticket costs 1.5 Euros and is valid for 100 minutes from the first validation. You can transfer as many times as you like, but the metro gates will only open once. An alternative is the airport buses operated by Terravision or Sit-BUS Shuttle. Travel times to the main Termini station are about 40-45 minutes. Buses depart every 20 minutes, and the ticket price is 6 Euros. The advantage is special luggage spaces and no stops.

Fiumicino Airport is located a bit further away (34 km from the center). The most convenient way to get there is the Leonardo Express - a train that runs directly to Termini station without any stops. The journey takes 32 minutes, and trains depart every 15 minutes. The ticket price is 14 Euros. An alternative is the airport buses, which take about 70 minutes, and the ticket costs 8 Euros.

Before arrival and departure, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the operating hours of individual carriers, as most buses do not run at night. Tickets can be purchased online (2 Euros cheaper), at the airport, or from the driver.

At Termini station, two main metro lines intersect - A (red) and B (blue). The green line C is still under construction and only part of the route is operational. A single ticket valid for 100 minutes costs 1.5 Euros.

I will continue to describe the trips we managed to take during our 4-day stay.

The July heat really took a toll on us. We chose the advice of our apartment caretaker and set off to the sea.

From the Roman Forum, we headed towards the Porta San Paolo train station (about a 30-minute walk). Along the way, we passed the Pyramid of Cestius built in 12 BC. The structure mimicked the original Egyptian pyramids but was erected on a concrete skeleton and faced with marble blocks from the Luna quarries.

The suburban train to Lido takes about an hour. If we buy a day pass for public transport (7 Euros), the train is included in the price. A swim in the sea after a whole day of walking around the city is an unforgettable pleasure.

Upon arriving at the Colosseum, it turned out that the agency through which we paid for the tickets no longer exists. Fortunately, it was just a broker, so we managed to get our money back. This is yet another case where an earlier booking through well-known international agencies fails to materialize. We had to change our plans and move our visit to the Colosseum to the next day.

We took advantage of the opportunity to purchase a combo ticket for the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill. The ticket is valid for 24 hours and currently costs 25.40 Euros.

From the Palatine Hill, you can see the Forum perfectly, and I think it’s worth starting the tour from here. The area is shaded by trees, so we can hide from the sun. According to legend, in a cave on the hill, a she-wolf nursed Romulus and Remus, and this is where the story of Rome begins. Gaius Octavius was born here and continued to live in very modest conditions even after he became the first emperor, Augustus. Only his successors, Tiberius, Caligula, and Domitian, built lavish palaces.

Among the most magnificent monuments are the ruins of the Palace of Septimius Severus and the "Stadium." We are not sure of the original purpose of the "Stadium." It might have been a horse-riding arena or a private garden. Official records of competitions held here date back only to the 6th century, after the fall of the empire.

From the Palatine, we descend to the western part of the Forum. Before Rome was founded, this area was a swamp stretching along the stream, whose bed became the main street, Via Sacra. The swamp separated the Palatine and Capitol hills. It was drained after the unification of the Latin and Sabine tribes. The Forum was the center of civic and economic life during the Republic. In the times of the Roman Empire, it served commercial, entertainment, and representative purposes. Triumphal processions and religious pilgrimages marched along the Via Sacra towards the Capitol.

In the 18th century, cattle were grazed on the grassy ruins, and the area was called Campo Viccino (Cow Field).

In most cases, only fragments of colonnades remain from the numerous temples. The best-preserved structure is the triumphal arch of Septimius Severus, erected in 203 AD to commemorate victories in the military campaign in the east of the empire.

Day one

In July, temperatures reach up to 30 degrees Celsius, and the heat is particularly felt in the open spaces of the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum. Be sure to bring hats and something to drink. In many places, you can find street wells with drinking water that can be poured into bottles, but it’s better to buy bottled water from a store.

We stayed in the Appio Latino district, which is a 40-minute walk from the Forum. Since we had reserved tickets for the Colosseum, we decided to walk, allowing us to pass through the Lateran district. After crossing parts of the defensive walls, we arrive at the Basilica di San Giovanni. Right next to it is the Lateran Palace, which houses part of the Vatican Museums' exhibition.

In front of the palace stands an obelisk, which is the largest preserved standing Egyptian obelisk in the world. Originally, it was 32 meters tall and weighed 413 tons. It was built in Karnak around 1400 BC. It arrived in Rome in 357 AD and was erected in the Circus Maximus. With the fall of the empire, the circus fell into ruin, and the obelisk collapsed and remained buried in the ground until 1580. At the command of Pope Sixtus V, it was restored, adorned with a cross at the top, and placed in its current location. Due to damage, it lost 4 meters in height and now weighs about 300 tons.

Rome

The city was founded in the Iron Age and initially was a settlement of the Latin tribe, located on the Palatine Hill. Rome's wealth came from the sale of rock salt obtained in salt pans at the mouth of the Tiber by evaporating seawater in the sun. According to legend, the founder of Rome in 753 BC was Romulus, who became the first king. The city lacked women, and as a result, the Romans decided to abduct them from the neighboring settlement of the Sabines located on the Quirinal Hill (the legendary abduction of the Sabine women).

The population of Rome was divided into patricians (the aristocracy, descended from the Latin tribe) and plebeians (workers, small traders, craftsmen, and farmers), who were members of the Sabine tribe or were newcomers. Plebeians sought the protection of the aristocracy by submitting to one of the families. Interestingly, only patricians were obligated to military service.

In the 5th century BC, the inhabitants rebelled against the royal rule of the Etruscan dynasty of the Tarquins and established a republican government. The city expanded rapidly and included additional hills: Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, Esquiline, Caelian, Capitol, Aventine, Janiculum. Around 200 BC, the population of Rome was about 500,000 inhabitants. Compared to Slavic settlements like Biskupin, which is estimated to have had a population of 800 to 1,000, this was an unimaginable colossus.

In 27 BC, Gaius Octavius was granted the title of Augustus by the Senate, meaning 'exalted by the gods.' From that moment, the Roman Republic became an empire, and the city experienced a rapid flourishing. During this time, the most famous buildings were constructed: the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Baths of Caracalla, the Roman Forum, the early Christian Basilica of St. Peter, and the Via Appia. The fall of the empire occurred at the end of the 5th century AD. Like most Italian cities, Rome changed hands many times in the later period, only to become the capital of the Papal States and the residence of the popes by the mid-8th century.

Finally, as a result of the unification wars in 1871, it became the capital of Italy. In 1929, the Lateran Treaties guaranteed the independence and sovereignty of the Vatican State located within the borders of Rome.

What you should know before a trip to Italy

Italy is a very popular tourist destination, both for skiing enthusiasts and for those who enjoy wine tasting in Tuscany's agritourism farms. We must also mention the numerous groups visiting Rome as part of organized church pilgrimages.

There are many direct flight connections. We can take advantage of cheap flights with Ryanair or Wizzair. Off-season ticket prices start from several dozen Euros, and it's worth considering these offers because there will be fewer tourists, and the temperatures are more favorable for city walks.

Polish name "Wlochy" is interesting exception not used in other countires. It occasionally happens that someone says Italia, but this is rather an incident in Polish vocabulary. So where does the name "Wlochy" come from? We need to go back to Slavic times before the establishment of statehood. The Apennine Peninsula was inhabited by the tribes of the Wolks and this is how they were referred to by the peoples of Central Europe. The borrowed words from the West, walh/wealh "foreigner," "stranger," have survived to modern times as "Wloch - Wlochy."

As in all European Union countries, we move around based on our ID card and do not need an entry visa. We are in the Euro zone, and in most places, we use credit cards. Cash will come in handy at local markets.

Driving a car in larger cities requires circus skills and keen observation of local drivers, who seem to be exempt from any rules. If we want to keep our car in good condition, I recommend leaving it in a parking lot outside the city and using public transport to get to the center.

In Rome, watch out for seagulls that seem interested in food but can snatch a gold chain from your neck. While waiting in line for tickets to historical sites, you will also meet many "friends" who will engage you in conversation about the Polish pope and our football players. Soon they will offer small gifts and conclude the conversation with an amount that you need to pay for 10 minutes of polite exchange (usually around 20 Euros depending on the number of received trinkets).

Rome, Venice, Milan

June 2006, August 2018, September 2022