Our recommendations
- Mainau flower island
- Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas store - Rothenburg
- Neuschwanstein castle
- old towns of Dresden, Regensburg, Rothenburg and Bautzen
- Nordsee chain restaurants
What is worth eating?
- if you go to Nordsee, I recommend the fish soup, but also the fish
- Weißwurst, which is grilled white sausage (rolled in a "snail") with potatoes and beer
- Bratwursts (grilled pork sausage with potatoes and beer)
- Schweinshaxe (roasted pork knuckle)
- Eintopf (hearty meat soup with vegetables and potatoes)
- Bretzel (savory pretzel sprinkled with coarse salt)
- Apfelstrudel (dessert like "apple pie" with vanilla sauce)
- beer (with everything)
Dresden
The first mentions of the settlement date back to the 10th century. Its history is closely linked to Poland. In 1002, the area of Dresden along with Meissen was under the rule of Bolesław Chrobry. In 1697, Augustus II the Strong became the King of Poland and made Dresden a royal residence city. As early as 1705, the first permanent street lighting appeared and cultural development took place to elevate its status as the king's residence. Postal routes to Wrocław, Warsaw, Toruń, and Poznań were also established.
On the night of February 13 to 14, 1945, Allied aviation carried out a carpet bombing of the old town, destroying the entire historic center. The air raid made no strategic sense - the war was already in its final phase. Parts of the monuments have not been rebuilt to this day, especially since during the GDR period, the city hosted the largest number of military units in its history and the socialist authorities had other commitments.
Constancy and Mainau Island
Located on the shores of Lake Constance, Constancy is a border town between Germany and Switzerland. Due to its location, it is frequently visited on weekends by Swiss shoppers taking advantage of much cheaper German stores.
Lake Constance, divided among Austria, Germany, and Switzerland, is the third-largest lake in Europe, measuring 64 km in length and up to 12 km in width. A fleet of excursion boats belonging to the three countries operates on its waters. Just 14 km from Constancy lies the German-owned flower island of Mainau.
The trade route to Italy that passed through here in the Middle Ages contributed to the rapid development of the city. It was the capital of the largest Catholic diocese north of the Alps, where the only conclave in this part of Europe took place (1414 - 1418). During the council, Czech reformer Jan Hus was burned at the stake here, as I mentioned in the blog section dedicated to Prague.
Bautzen (Budziszyn)
In our travels, we have often bypassed Budziszyn due to a lack of time, but the sight of the illuminated old town at night has always caught our eye. The first historical mentions date back to the 11th century, and over the centuries the city has changed hands from German to Polish, Czech, and Hungarian. In 1018, a peace was made here between Bolesław Chrobry and Emperor Henry II. During the Polish-Saxon union, the main route connecting Dresden and Warsaw passed through here.
The oldest monument is the Ortenburg Castle, rebuilt and fortified in the 15th century by the Hungarian King Matthias Corvinus. It is surrounded by defensive walls and towers. The castle makes the greatest impression when viewed from the bridge over the Spree or from the opposite bank. From the side of the old town, it is almost unnoticeable.
St. Peter's Cathedral, dating from 1430, has retained its original shape except for the baroque dome added to the tower in the mid-17th century. The town hall located between the main market (famous for its Christmas markets) and the meat market closer to the cathedral, also dates from the same period. Despite extensive renovations, a medieval sundial has been preserved on the town hall.
The street signs are bilingual, and most residents, in addition to German, speak Sorbian.
Strolling along the Elbe, we have a view from the Brühl Terraces of the Japanese Palace and the Bellevue Hotel. The terraces were built in 1814 on the remnants of defensive walls and became a favorite walking route for the locals. The Dresden Castle, located at the edge of the old town opposite the Zwinger Palace, partially burned down in 1701 and was rebuilt around the same time as the palace. The same architects were employed, so the buildings have a similar character.
Similar to Warsaw, the Dresden Old Town is a closed area by the Elbe River, bordered by the Zwinger Palace and the opera house (Theater Square). The Zwinger was one of the first buildings reconstructed after the war.
Its construction was initiated by Augustus II the Strong, modeled after Versailles. On August 20, 1719, the wedding of the next King of Poland, Augustus III, took place in the still unfinished palace with the last Queen of Poland - Maria Josepha.
The reconstruction of the theater building (Semperoper) was only completed in 1985. The original design of the building was by Gottfried Semper, who finished construction in 1841. There seemed to be some kind of fate hanging over the building as it burned down completely after 28 years. In its place, a wooden theater with 1,800 seats was built, which opened in December 1869. In 1871, the construction of the current building began. Semper designed and supervised the construction remotely because, due to his political activities, he was banned from residing in the Kingdom of Saxony.
The wall mural depicting the princely procession was painted by Wilhelm Walther in 1876. It is nearly 102 meters long and 10.5 meters high. Originally, it was created using the sgraffito painting technique, which is very fragile. Between 1906 and 1907, using the author's drawings, the mural was transferred to 25,000 Meissen porcelain tiles. The wall, as one of the few objects in the Old Town, survived the bombing in 1945.
We reach the island of Mainau via a short bridge after purchasing tickets for 26 Euros. The estate belonged to the Swedish Prince Lennart Bernadotte, who passed away here in 2004, leaving the ownership rights to his namesake foundation. He dedicated most of his life to continuing the work of Frederick I, who began creating the botanical garden at the end of the 19th century.
The first giant sequoias were planted here in 1864. Due to the subtropical climate, the collection was gradually enhanced with the addition of banana plants, palms, and bamboo groves. Every year, impressive floral sculptures are created to welcome over a million tourists. Another major attraction is the largest butterfly house in Europe.
We enter the old town through the Schnetztor gate - a remnant of the city walls from the late 14th century. The Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary, dating back to the 15th century, offers a perfect viewpoint. From its 78-meter tower you can see the entire city and the opposite shore of Lake Constance. We must climb 245 steps and buy an entrance ticket for 4 Euros.
The entrance to the harbor is marked by a rotating statue of the Empire, erected in 1993 in memory of the conclave.
Built in 1869, the "Red Town Hall" owes its name to the color of the bricks used for its facade.
Gendarmenmarkt, or the Place of the Gendarmerie, was established at the end of the 17th century as the main market. At its opposite ends, twin-like cathedrals, one French and one German, were built. The longer side of the square is closed by the opera house. From November 25 to December 31, the largest Christmas market takes place here every year, attracting nearly 1 million visitors.
Charlottenburg Palace was built at the end of the 17th century as a summer residence for the Hohenzollerns. It was expanded in the early 18th century in the style of Versailles. The gardens and orangery were also designed according to the latest French fashion. Queen Sophie Charlotte died at the age of just 37, and in her honor, the king named the estate after her.
In 1945, the ruins housed the headquarters of the 1st Infantry Division named after Tadeusz Kościuszko. The complete reconstruction of the palace and its interiors was only finished at the beginning of this century. Currently, it houses museums - admission costs 12 Euros.
The Memorial Church was originally dedicated to Emperor Wilhelm and was built in 1895. As a result of bombing during the war, only fragments of the 68-meter tower survived, which were left as an anti-war symbol. In 2016, a Christmas market near the church was attacked, resulting in the deaths of 16 people. In the cab of the Polish truck that drove into the crowd, the body of the driver was found, who tried to stop the Tunisian attacker until the end. Since then, all markets have been shielded by concrete barriers.
The German parliament building was opened for use in 1894. It hosted sessions of the deputies of the German Empire and later the Weimar Republic. Due to a fire in February 1933, the dome and the plenary hall were destroyed. The fire was caused by an arson attack, but it has not yet been confirmed who was responsible. This fact was exploited by the authorities, blaming the communists. Parliamentary sessions during the Third Reich took place in the opera house.
During World War II, in the ruined building, the company AEG established a factory for radio equipment, and later a field hospital was moved here. After the war, the ruins of the building were located in West Berlin, and the authorities in Bonn decided to rebuild it for use as a museum. This was completed in 1973, but the building lacked its characteristic dome.
Its glass structure was completed in 1999, along with the reopening of the building for the use of the parliament of unified Germany. It has a diameter of 40 meters and a height of 24 meters. It is one of the major tourist attractions due to the view it offers. Admission is free, but it is necessary to book a visit by registering at https://visite.bundestag.de.
The Brandenburg Gate was built in 1791 as part of the city walls. Customs officials stood guard at the gates on both sides. During the city's expansion in the following centuries, the walls were dismantled, eliminating all city gates except for this one. Thus, it became one of the symbols of Berlin and all of Germany. The quadriga driven by the goddess Victoria was seized by Napoleon Bonaparte's troops and transported to Paris. It returned to its place only after the defeat of the leader.
During the Cold War, the gate stood at the border of West Berlin. Despite this, the victorious powers managed to agree on its reconstruction, completed in December 1957. Until the reunification of Germany, approaching the gate was prohibited. Only exceptional guests, accompanied by border guards, were invited to the viewing platform from the GDR side.
So we enter the main avenue of Berlin - Unter den Linden leading towards the Brandenburg Gate. Stretching 1.5 km long and 60 meters wide, it connected the Berlin Palace with Tiergarten park. Over time, public utility buildings and the most expensive shops were established along it.
The Berlin Cathedral in its current form was built at the beginning of the 20th century. From the start, it was an Evangelical church where the most important state ceremonies took place before the outbreak of World War II. The reconstruction after the war damage was only fully completed in the 1990s.
Adjacent to the cathedral is the 19th-century building of the Old Museum, which was constructed with the intention of showcasing ancient art.
The route of our city walk was defined by the Christmas markets, which were the main purpose of our visit. From Alexanderplatz, we headed towards the Neptune Fountain, passing the Church of St. Mary along the way. The construction of the temple was completed in 1413, and it is an example of brick Gothic architecture. Despite the significant destruction of Berlin during the last war, the church has been well-preserved, and inside we find original baroque furnishings from the 18th century.
The Neptune Fountain, built at the end of the 19th century in front of the Berlin Palace, was moved to its current location in 1969 due to the demolition of the damaged building. After the reunification of Germany, a debate began about the reconstruction of the building, and ultimately in 2007, the parliament approved the project. The front of the palace was rebuilt along with the dome, but as far as I know, the fountain has not returned to its original location.
The first conflict with the USSR in 1948 led to the blockade of West Berlin and the cutting off of power supplies. The enclave survived solely thanks to the airlift and deliveries to Tempelhof Airport. In the 1980s, the wave of hijackings of LOT Polish Airlines planes by defectors from Poland to that very airport became the basis for a popular joke. The abbreviation LOT was humorously interpreted as Landing on Tempelhof.
After the Berlin Wall was built in 1961, communication between the sectors ceased, and the subway lines running through the western part did not stop at stations that slowly became deserted.
The architecture of Alexanderplatz changed in accordance with the new power's vision. The central feature of the square became the "Fountain of Friendship" and the "World Clock Urania." The main part of the clock rotates on a pole, indicating the time in various parts of the world. The square was surrounded by department stores, and a television tower was built in the southeast.
The tower, standing at 368 meters, is the tallest building in Germany. Construction was completed in 1969, and since then it has attracted great interest from tourists due to its rotating restaurant at a height of 208 meters and observation deck. Admission costs 26.50 Euros.
Berlin
We began our visit at Alexanderplatz, which was named in 1805 in honor of the Tsar of Russia - Alexander I. The previous Parade Square was the site of the Tsar's welcome during his visit, and to commemorate this event, the name of the square was changed.
As a result of the city's division into occupation zones after World War II, the square came under Russian control, and Berlin became the capital of the GDR. The three remaining occupation zones, administered by the Western Allies, were merged in 1949 into West Berlin. It formed a closed enclave outside the administration of the socialist authorities of the GDR.
During the holiday season, souvenir shops were filled with seasonal ceramic decorations.
The House of Goliath was built in 1260. A fresco three stories high depicting the battle between Goliath and David has adorned it since 1573. Such decorations were very fashionable in the 16th century, but only one has survived in Regensburg.
St. Peter's Cathedral is the second most valuable monument. Construction began in the 15th century and the design of the building was changed several times. The final shape, with two towers reaching a height of 105 meters, was only achieved in the late 19th century.
Regensburg
The history of the city of Regensburg (Ratisbon) dates back to the 2nd century AD, when the 3rd Roman Legion established a fortification named Regina at this location. Over 6000 soldiers were stationed here, which was an anomaly in the Roman administrative system.
Its location on the Danube River led to the rapid development of the city, aided by the establishment of a bishopric in the 8th century. By the 13th century, the population had already reached about 10,000. A stone bridge was built over the Danube, which was the only permanent crossing over the river between Vienna and Ulm. The bridge is one of the largest monuments of the old town, which was inscribedon the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2006. In the Middle Ages, two bridge towers defended the crossing, but only one has survived to this day.
A 30-minute walk from Neuschwanstein Castle, we can see another building - Hohenschwangau Castle. Built by King Maximilian II (father of Ludwig II) in 1837, it is less frequently visited by tourists. Since 1912, the castle has housed a museum. The entrance ticket and guided tour cost 21 euros.
Neuschwanstein
Since we are in Bavaria, it's worth driving to the Austrian border near Lake Alpsee. It is almost 200 km from Munich, but Neuschwanstein Castle is one of the biggest tourist attractions, visited by over a million tourists each year. We know it from the opening scenes of Disney movies.
It was commissioned by King Ludwig II of Bavaria, who eventually earned the nickname "Mad King." He was a well-known patron of the arts and a great admirer of Richard Wagner's work. The castle was intended to serve as a living backdrop for the artist's works. Unfortunately, the construction consumed all of the king's income, and he became indebted for over 7 million marks. The Bavarian government declared the ruler incompetent, incapacitated him, and forced him to abdicate in 1886. Ludwig lived in the castle for just 172 days, and Richard Wagner never visited the estate. The king died shortly thereafter, and the castle was taken over by the Bavarian government and opened to the public. Thanks to ticket fees, all debts were paid off by 1899.
Visiting is only possible with a guide and costs 52 euros. It is best to book your entry in advance through the website https://neuschwansteintickets.com/
A beautiful view of the castle is available from the opposite hill at the Marienbrücke bridge. We leave our cars in the parking lot in Schwangau and walk uphill to the castle (about 30 minutes). Unfortunately, the view from the foot of the walls is somewhat disappointing, so it's worth spending another 20 minutes to reach the bridge.
The central place in the market is occupied by the "Mary Column" from 1638, erected in gratitude for the city's salvation during the Thirty Years' War.
In the 15th-century cathedral, we can admire the stained glass windows and the tomb of Louis of Bavaria. The two characteristic towers, which are symbols of the city, reach a height of nearly 100 meters. One of them is open for visiting - the ticket price is 7.5 euros. The cathedral houses a total of 46 graves of princes and rulers of Bavaria.
We enter the old town through the Isartor gate built in 1337. An interesting feature is the clock, which is equipped with two dials placed on opposite sides. Since they are driven by the same axis, the hands of one of them rotate in the opposite direction. Hence the famous saying of Chancellor Willy Brandt: "In Bavaria, clocks run differently."
Munich
We had a few hours for sightseeing, during which we only managed to visit the market square and its surroundings. The city was founded in the 11th century at the foot of a castle and a Benedictine monastery. The name Munich derives from the phrase bei den Mönchen, meaning "by the monks." The monk is also featured in the city's coat of arms. Its location on the salt trade route, the bridge crossing over the river Isar, and the privilege granted to the monks to hold fairs led to the rapid development of the city.
Before World War II, it earned a bad reputation due to the Munich Agreement, where Western powers agreed to cede part of Czechoslovakia to Germany. Munich was also the birthplace of the Nazi party. It was here that Adolf Hitler attempted to carry out a coup and seize power in the Weimar Republic.
During the war, the old town was largely destroyed and only partially rebuilt. Many historic tenement houses are separated by modern glass buildings.
The new town hall at Marienplatz makes the biggest impression. It was built in the early 20th century in the neo-Gothic style and looks much older. The clock tower, equipped with 43 bells, is the fourth largest of its kind in the world.
The Old Town Hall, with its simple white facade, dates back to the late 15th century. The "White Tower" was previously part of the defensive walls and was constructed in the 12th century.
Rothenburg
This small town is located 60 km from Nuremberg, where time has stood still since the Middle Ages. It is a global phenomenon in terms of the number of historical monuments - it essentially consists entirely of the old town, where car access is restricted. We managed to find accommodation in an old inn right in the center.
The history of the city dates back to the 10th century when the construction of the first defensive walls around Count Rothenburg's castle began. The family had strong ties to the imperial court and founded 7 towns of the same name in Europe (5 in Germany, one in Switzerland, and one in Poland - the present-day Czerwieńsk on the Oder).
Every year on Pentecost, the "Festival of Saving the City" takes place. The residents dress in folk costumes, and markets and festivals are held. The wine consumed is measured in gallons. The celebration is related to a legend about the siege of the city during the Thirty Years' War. The clock on the town hall tower emitted the sounds of a mechanical lark. The besiegers declared that the city would not be destroyed if, during the duration of the sound, one of the residents drank a gallon of wine. This was accomplished by Mayor Nush.
One of the main attractions of the town is the Käthe Wohlfahrt shop-museum. It is a year-round Christmas store occupying 3 floors of a tenement building. The history of the shop is worth recounting. The couple Käthe and Wohlfahrt bought a music box for Christmas in 1963. The toy was very popular with their American visitors. Unfortunately, after the holidays, it was impossible to find a similar device anywhere. It was only in February that Mr. Wohlfahrt came across a wholesaler who could supply 10 music boxes on order. Besides the gift for their guests, the couple decided to sell the remaining 9 pieces among American soldiers. Street selling was prohibited, so the couple was stopped by military police. Since the toy was also very popular at the station, they were advised to sell it at a charity bazaar run by the wives of American officers. The company was founded in 1964, and purchases can also be made through the website https://www.kaethe-wohlfahrt.com.
Germany - some practical information
Our visits to the western neighbor were usually related to skiing trips or Christmas markets. Therefore, they occurred in the winter and lasted very briefly - sometimes just one day. Descriptions will not be very detailed, and certainly most readers have already had the chance to explore Berlin or Dresden and know these cities better than I do.
I don't have many practical tips, maybe apart from what has changed over the years. We definitely don't drive as recklessly on the highways anymore. I’m not even mentioning the increased number of cars on the roads, with the infrastructure not having changed much. Speed limits have simply been introduced, set at 100 or 130 km per hour. There are few sections where you can drive "as fast as the car can go."
The second topic is accommodations. In the past, we would travel assuming we would find something along the way depending on where we managed to reach, and it would be inexpensive. Perhaps the pandemic caused many roadside budget accommodations to close, or maybe there are fewer people willing to work? Our recent travels forced us to look for lodging in large hotels in city centers. It was no longer cheap.
However, food at gas stations remains unchanged - in self-service restaurants, you can always find something budget-friendly. Fuel prices are only slightly higher than in Poland.