The city has a climate reminiscent of mountain resort  Zakopane in Poland. Souvenir photos with animals, souvenir shops, horse-drawn carriages, cotton candy, and all the joyful tourist hustle and bustle. After the mountain silence and the deserted Chiatura, we quickly became tired.

The next day we drove to Bakuriani to assess the ski infrastructure, which is considered one of the best in Georgia. Personally, I do not recommend it - we have 30 km of downhill slopes and 20 lifts available. The highest point is 2,700 meters. The main drawback is the far spread of lifts from the town and the lack of connections between them. They are therefore isolated stations that require driving between them.

The deserted train station does not improve the mood, especially the information about ticket prices to Kukushka. The train ran twice a day, so many companies encouraged buying tickets well in advance online. The prices were equivalent to several dozen PLN, while the price on-site is 2 Lari (3 PLN), and tickets are purchased on the train.

What do we eat in Georgia?

Khinkali - dumplings with a filling, e.g., meat in broth

Khachapuri - bread with fillings (most popular with a fried egg)

Tonis Puri - bread in the form of elongated flatbreads

Georgian salad - chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley, onion with a walnut paste

Badrijani - grilled eggplant with walnut paste

Baked mushroomsstuffed with sulguni cheese

Phali - vegetable pastes

Kharcho - beef goulash soup

Grilled skewers -various types of meat

Our recommendations

- grill restaurant in Besik Gabashvili Park in Kutaisi

- Cafe Turist in Borjomi

- beach on the Black Sea in Gonio

- Luxury Apartment at Pirosmani 22 in Borjomi

- Bapsha Guesthouse in Mestia

- Hotel Edemi Castle in Kutaisi

Cafe Turist is a place in Borjomi where, avoiding luxury restaurants and SPA hotels, you can enjoy a wonderful traditional meal at an affordable price. The venue is tiny and accommodates only a few people, so you should be prepared to wait or make an appointment with the host. The meals are prepared by his wife, while the host acts as the waiter, advisor, and entertains with stories.

Chiatura

It is probably the ugliest city in Georgia. For years, it has been a major industrial center, famous for its manganese mines. At the beginning of the 20th century, its output covered 60% of the world's demand.

The city is located on the slopes of the Kvirila River valley, which is essentially a stinking sewer. Biological life has been completely wiped out by waste and sewage from the mines.

Manganese resources were depleted by the end of the 20th century, and the city is slowly dying. The large-panel buildings are inhabited by only a few percent. They are gradually being devastated due to looting by residents. A dubious attraction for tourists is the tours of abandoned buildings.

To service the mines and facilitate residents' movement through the valley, dozens of cable cars were built, remnants of which are still visible. In 2021, none of them were operational, but reportedly a few years earlier, rides were still possible and provided a thrill.

In their place, several modern cable cars were built, but they had not yet been put into operation during our stay. The city's population is shrinking rapidly due to a lack of prospects and currently stands at about 15,000 residents. Perhaps the new cable cars will no longer be needed by anyone?

On one of the mountain slopes is a monastery embedded in the rocky slope Mgwimewi built in the 8th century. It is a true gem, and despite the need to climb stairs in 40-degree heat, it was worth seeing.

Note - strict dress codes are enforced. Since we were wearing shorts, we were asked to leave by one of the monks. The only thing we had in our backpacks were thick rain ponchos. After putting them on, the monk commented on our attire in Russian "но молодцы" - well done and allowed us to enter.

Borjomi and Bakuriani

These are the last towns on our two-week itinerary. The main reason for adding them to the plan is the narrow-gauge railway that connects them. It is called Кукушка - Cuckoo. The line was built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries and is a true engineering marvel. Gustave Eiffel, the designer of the Paris tower, was involved in the project. Borjomi was already a well-known SPA at the time, and in Bakuriani, which is less than 40 km away, there were mineral springs. The railway was an excellent alternative to traveling by horse-drawn carriage through the mountains.

Unfortunately, after the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic, train services were suspended, and our elaborate plan fell apart. I do not use this in my descriptions, but I will include just one photo taken from the Internet to illustrate what we lost.

Mestia and Ushguli

The road to Mestia is quite difficult to traverse even in summer. We pass many sections with bumps or lack of pavement, often crossed by streams and blocked by boulders falling from the mountains. Additionally, for unknown reasons, it is chosen as a resting place by herds of cows.

We passed by several small ski resorts along the way (including in Mestia itself), but I wonder how anyone can get there in winter?

The area is famous for its characteristic defensive towers, which were equipped at every household. The entrance to the tower is several meters high and is accessible via a wooden platform. Each tower has a water source, and the lower floors are designated for a granary and shelter for smaller domestic animals.

In the event of an enemy invasion, the hosts would flee to the tower and burn the wooden platform. They were able to survive there for several months and repel attempts to attack from the firing points located at the top. Usually, all armies avoided such structures as they were not strategically attractive and slowed down the pace of march.

Currently, some towers have hostels, but they need to be booked well in advance.

We reach Ushguli via a country road full of surprises. The only thing confirming that we are heading in the right direction were the "marshrutkas" passing by us. It is a village at the end of the world, serving as a base for trekking. Several trails lead through the mountains back to Mestia.

From Ushguli, you can reach Kutaisi via unpaved roads, but the hostess of our little hotel advised against that route, so we turned back towards Zugdidi and headed to Kutaisi. We somewhat regret it because our friend managed to travel from Kutaisi to Ushguli during that time, so the country roads were passable.

Batumi

In Batumi, we took a short break dedicated to sunbathing by the Black Sea. The beaches are pebbly, but do not require special footwear. The small pebbles are smooth, and the only difficulty is getting out of the water because we slide back down on them. On the beaches, in addition to bars and restaurants, we find rentals for sunbeds and umbrellas. It’s worth taking advantage of this because it’s quite hard to lie on a towel or blanket for long.

We drove towards the border with Turkey because the city beaches are very crowded. After Gonio, it gets empty, and along the way, you can explore the ruins of a Roman fortress from the 2nd century AD.

Batumi itself is emerging as a global resort, and its promenade is filled with luxury, night illuminations, and light-sound shows. However, just a short walk from the beach reveals the characteristic architecture of large concrete block buildings. They appear unfinished because some floors lack side walls. You can also see the enormous creativity of the residents adding balconies in various shapes and sizes. The whole scene creates an image of complete chaos and reflects the loose building regulations.

I recommend taking the cable car that starts near the port. From it, we have an excellent view of the city and the port, and at the top, you can enjoy good drinks.

On the way to Mestia and Ushguli

The next stage was a drive to the mountainous regions in the northeast of the country. Due to the unresolved conflict with Ossetia, tourists can reach Zugdidi and then head north. Remember to fill up your car because it’s hard to find gas stations further on, and you will rely on purchases from roadside vendors.

In Zugdidi, you must see the Dadiani Palace - the residence of the family remodeled in the 19th century in the neo-Gothic style. The palace houses an archaeological-historical museum with many souvenirs from Napoleon Bonaparte and the robe of the Virgin Mary. Surrounding the palace is a botanical garden, which also contains two smaller palaces and the Church of the Virgin Mary.

The Kinchkha Waterfall on the Okatse River is one of the highest in Georgia. The height of the main cascade is about 70 meters. In July, the water flow is not large, and it is practically blown away by the wind before reaching the bottom. Therefore, it does not look very impressive. At the end of the trail, we encountered a zip line - I highly recommend taking the ride. We cross to the other side of the river on it, return back with another zip line, and are driven back up to the parking lot by car.

The Okatse Canyon is impressive. We hike along its slopes on grid-like walkways. I advise against this route for those with a fear of heights, especially since it is one-way and it’s not easy to turn back. At the end, you can take a 4x4 vehicle ride back to the starting point.

The Prometheus Cave was discovered in the 1980s. At the request of the military, groups of scientists were searching for caves that could be adapted as nuclear shelters. It is considered one of the most beautiful caves in the world. At the end of the route, you can also purchase a boat ride on the underground river. Apparently, we were very lucky because this attraction is often unavailable due to too high or low water levels.

In the vicinity of Kutaisi, there are numerous canyons, caves, underground rivers, and waterfalls.

We started with the Martvili canyon, which can be navigated by pontoon. The trip takes about half an hour, but it's worth doing. Afterwards, there is a short hiking trail. Although the water is crystal clear, it appears murky and has a greenish tint.

Behind the fountain in the central square, there is a park bordered by covered markets. I highly recommend this place for excellent spices and very strong ground coffee. Don’t forget to pick up treats for homeless dogs.

It is worth taking the old cable car to Besik Gabshvili Park, where you will find the best restaurant serving traditional skewers grilled on swords.

About 10 km from Kutaisi is the Gelati Monastery founded in the 11th century by King David IV the Builder.

For many years, there was an academy here that gathered the brightest minds of medieval Georgia. You can admire original frescoes and manuscripts date back to the 12th century.

King David IV is compared by Georgian historians to Polish king - Casimir the Great due to his achievements in construction, education, and modernizing the country.

Kutaisi

It is the third largest city in Georgia. Despite its centuries-old history, it currently does not attract many historical sites and feels more like a transit hub. This may be due to the airport serving low-cost carriers and "marsrutkas" departing from the central square in all directions. The Bagrati Cathedral, which dominates the city, is its landmark. A few years ago, it was removed from the UNESCO heritage list after an awkward renovation that introduced modern architectural forms.

Towards Kutaisi

Returning from Stepantsminda south towards Kutaisi, we visited the rock city of Uplistsikhe and Gori - Stalin's city.

Uplistsikhe is one of several rock cities in Georgia, but it is considered one of the oldest urban settlements in the region. It was established around the 5th century BC and was an important center of political and religious activity in the country. It is estimated that at its peak, several thousand people lived here.

Entry is paid, and drone flying is allowed on the premises.

We visited Gori solely out of curiosity. The cult of Stalin left behind a mausoleum under which lies a wooden hut - supposedly the dictator's family home. Next to it is a historic railway carriage (an armored salon), which is no longer accessible for visits.

In Gori, for the first time in Georgia, we encountered the poverty affecting stray dogs. Their presence accompanied us almost until the end of our journey. Interestingly, they were not visible in the centers of Tbilisi and Batumi, the richest cities in the country.

Dogs seem to recognize tourists by scent and follow us while maintaining a safe distance. They are very malnourished, often sick, and the locals show no concern for their fate. Walking a dog on a leash is considered odd. Feeding stray dogs also meets with disapproval. Despite this, we quickly decided to buy packaged dog food at a supermarket and from that moment on, we always had it in our backpack. It was worth seeing the gratitude in the eyes of those abandoned animals.

Georgia has been famous for wine production for several thousand years. The traditional method of making wine in clay amphorae called kvervi is being replaced in professional vineyards by European barrel production. Everyone produces wine, and it can be bought by the roadside in 5-liter or 1-liter plastic jugs. Vendors encourage tasting and selecting the variety that suits us. Often, the wonderful wine bought on a hot day seems like a misunderstanding when tried in an air-conditioned hotel room by evening. However, this did not discourage us from making further attempts. Local moonshine "chacha" is also available, but it did not win our favor.

On mountain stretches of roads, where there are no gas stations, there is an interesting custom. Men sell wine by the roadside, while women sell fuel for cars in the same plastic jugs. Not knowing Russian makes it easy to make a mistake :-)

Stepantsminda

Stepantsminda is a base for high-altitude climbs to the summit of Kazbek, which stands at 5054 meters. Of course, this expedition is solely for professionals. For amateurs, there remains the trek to the Cminda Sameba monastery. For those who prefer a more leisurely approach, it's possible to drive to the monastery in off-road vehicles. We chose this option and planned a return hike back to the town, which had its Soviet name Kazbegi changed in 2006.

Despite being the peak of the season, the town felt sleepy. We encountered very few tourists, and many restaurants were closed. Perhaps it's a result of the pandemic, but I have the impression that it has generally declined. The view of Kazbek with the monastery at its foot is, however, impressive, and despite the long journey from Tbilisi, it is worth including this place in your travel plans.

On the way to Kazbegi

From Tbilisi, we headed north towards Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) along the Georgian Military Road. It is worth stopping in the old capital of Georgia - Mtskheta and visiting the nearby Jvari Monastery.

Mtskheta was the capital of Georgia until the 5th century AD and still remains the seat of the highest authorities of the Orthodox Church. The rulers of Georgia were crowned and buried here until the 19th century. The cathedral of the Svetitskhoveli and fragments of the defensive walls have been wonderfully preserved. Walking from the parking lot, we pass excellent restaurants and craft shops. It is worth taking a break here during the journey because the further we go, the more difficult the road becomes.

The Jvari Monastery, located on a hill above the Kura River, is visible from Mtskheta. We can reach it by car and leave the vehicle in the parking lot. It is one of the oldest Orthodox buildings in the region and served as a model for the construction of other churches throughout the Caucasus. The view from the hill over the Kura River balances the disappointment of the monument's condition. The monastery is connected to Mtskheta by an underground passage that runs beneath the riverbed. It served as an evacuation route from the monastery in case of enemy invasion. Unfortunately, the passage is not open for visiting.

The next stop on the journey is the Ananuri fortress located by the "blue lake" Zhinvali. The lake was artificially created as a water reservoir for Tbilisi in the 1980s. The Aragvi River was dammed by a hydroelectric power station.

The fortress was built at the end of the 16th century. It is worth climbing the defensive tower, from which there is a beautiful view of the blue lake.

The Georgian Military Road will take you all the way to Stepantsminda, covering about 150 km through the Caucasus mountains. The road is very winding and has heavy traffic. It is hard to find a place to overtake the slow-moving trucks climbing uphill. Along the way, we pass the largest ski resort in Georgia - Gudauri.

The Holy Trinity Cathedral, located on the hill on the left bank of the Kura River, is a contemporary structure. It is the largest sacred site in Georgia. For Orthodox believers, it serves as a pilgrimage destination. It is surrounded by a park and meditation complex with numerous chapels.

A visit to the bathhouse is an important part of the program. We can choose a public bath, the peak of which is visible in the photo below, or purchase a visit to a private bath (photo on the right). The private bath is rented by the hour and provides full comfort and discretion. You have access to a changing room, toilets, a brine pool, a sauna, showers, and a cold bath in a barrel. The entire area is exclusively for you in a closed section of the building. There are several such sections, and you can rent rooms of appropriate size for your group. The downside is the need to book at least a day in advance due to the number of interested parties. You can also order dedicated massages and therapeutic-cosmetic treatments.

The Metekhi Church located on the cliff above the river is one of the oldest monuments in Tbilisi, dating back to the 13th century. It remained alone on the hill, but in the past, it was part of a palace complex that was completely destroyed during the Persian invasion in the 18th century. The imperial authorities turned the church into a prison, which lasted until the 1930s. Among its prisoners was Maxim Gorky. In the 1970s, there was a theater there. It returned to the Orthodox Church only at the end of the 20th century. Wandering through the old town, we will encounter a clock tower that is a mix of a Christmas crib, a music box, and a clock. At noon, a show begins, lasting several minutes. In various parts of the tower, windows open where puppets move. The tower is connected to the puppet theater and serves as a kind of advertisement for it. The panorama of the city can also be admired during a cruise on the Kura River, often combined with lunch and tasting local wines (the story of the wines is another tale).

T

Tbilisi

Tbilisi, the modern capital of Georgia, has a population of about 1.5 million residents. It is situated on several hills cut by the valley of the Kura River. Like all cities in Georgia, it is full of contrasts. Next to historic squares and very modern districts, you will find plenty of crumbling alleys.

Two days seem sufficient to see the main attractions. We had a bit more time since it was the starting and ending point of our trip. What is worth seeing?

The old town center

The funicular to Mtatsminda hill (amusement park)

The cable car from Europe Square to Narikala Fortress

The Betlemi district with Gallery 27

The Abanotubani district and baths

Holy Trinity Cathedral

The Bridge of Peace

Leghvtakhevi Waterfall and the National Botanical Garden

Market

Clock tower

Metekhi Church

Flea market at Dry Bridge.

We started at Europe Square and the Bridge of Peace over the Kura River. From the promenade located in the center of the valley, you can see a large part of the historic city on the surrounding hills.

From there, you can take the cable car to the monumental statue of Mother Georgia. Similar statues can be found in almost every post-Soviet capital. They were usually named Mother Russia, which were changed after gaining independence by removing communist symbols.

The walk to Narikala Fortress will take about fifteen minutes. In the July temperatures (up to 40 degrees Celsius), exploring the sun-heated ruins is not very pleasant. Therefore, we quickly move towards the botanical garden (entrance fee) and the waterfall Leghvtakhevi. It is almost in the city center, and we will feel like we are in the mountains and cool off at the foot of the waterfall.

On the way back, we can stick to the hillside and pass through the Betlemi district with the famous Gallery 27 towards the funicular to the next hill, Mtatsminda. In Betlemi, time has stood still. Walking through the streets, we pass many houses built in the early 20th century with characteristic wooden verandas and staircases.

Gallery 27 is one of the most Instagrammed places, precisely because of its beautiful, stained-glass decorated staircase. On the top floor, you will find a shop with high-quality folk art and crafts.

Taking the funicular to Mtatsminda hill is interesting due to the funicular itself, which was opened in 1905. It caused so much concern at the time that frightened passengers were paid to take a seat in the carriage. From those times, the original upper and lower stations remain. At the top, there is an amusement park, mainly an attraction for children. We can relax and eat in one of the many restaurants with a beautiful view of the city below.

What's going on here?

While exploring Tbilisi, we often came across interesting murals created by Gosha ART (check out the author's page on Instagram). I hope I'm not violating any rights by posting them here. Was it the year of the cat in the calendar (all are from 2020)? We know that Tbilisi hosts an international mural festival, but I don't know the dates, and I'm also not sure if it's a recurring event. In any case, we send our regards to the author and wish for equally successful creations.

Travel plan

We had two weeks at our disposal and we tried to develop a travel plan that allowed for an extra day for unforeseen circumstances along the way. Keep in mind that not the entire country is accessible to tourists. Areas bordering South Ossetia and Russia are blocked by military patrols. Overland transport between Georgia and Russia is impossible. Therefore, we can only enter Georgia from Turkey, Armenia, or Azerbaijan.

Tbilisi

Mtskheta

Jvari

Stepantsminda (Kazbek)

Uplistsikhe

Gori

Kutaisi

Batumi

Zugdidi

Mestia

Ushguli

Chiatura

Borjomi

Bakuriani.

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What you should know before flying to Georgia

Poles are treated with great sentiment in Georgia since the conflict with Ossetia and the intervention of Russian forces supporting the separatists. Poland's unequivocal support for Georgia and the visit of President Lech Kaczyński are remembered to this day.

Flights from Poland to Georgia regularly operate to Tbilisi and Kutaisi (budget airlines). We chose Tbilisi due to our planned car rental. A visa is not required for Polish citizens; we can enter using only our ID card.

Offices of well-known car rental companies are not open 24 hours. Therefore, after landing on a morning flight, be prepared to wait at the airport, which is not much larger than Warsaw Modlin. We used the Georgia4You website where you can rent a car from a private owner. Prices are lower, and the car will be delivered at the time of your arrival. The cars are old and in poor technical condition. Upon pickup, check if everything is functioning. In our Mitsubishi Outlander, several warning lights were on, but the owner confirmed that this is normal. The vehicle was equipped with a PowerTape spool, which proved useful on the third day for securing a loose bumper. Traffic is right-sided, but vehicles can vary, and it's worth confirming that yours has the steering wheel positioned correctly.

Since our arrival was very early, we decided to book a hostel room for the previous day along with breakfast. This way, we could get some rest in the morning after our journey before we set out to explore the city.

The official currency is the Lari ₾, which is approximately 1.5 PLN. We exchanged Lari at a currency exchange where Euros or Dollars are accepted - the rate is better than in Poland. We also bought local phone cards with internet access to have navigation in the car.

The Georgian language resembles Arabic languages, including its script. The lack of signs in Latin letters can often be a hindrance, and you may need to ask locals for help. We can mainly communicate in Russian. You can only count on English proficiency in large cities.

Along the streets, there are devices resembling our parking meters. They have several uses, such as paying rent, taxes, electricity, and also for parking. They have menus in several languages, but only at a basic level. When paying for parking, as soon as you set the parking time, you will be switched to the Georgian language, and you will need assistance. Note - payment machines do not give change. If parking costs 2 Lari and you insert 10, the change is lost... well, almost. With local assistance, you can allocate the remaining 8 Lari to recharge your phone card. You will receive a neat SMS on your phone, completely unreadable as it is in Georgian.

Driving in Georgia is not a pleasant experience. The roads between major cities are not highways, even if they have two lanes and are separated by greenery. Cows and sheep may graze in the middle of the road. Trade in various goods occurs on the roadside. It is worth filling up before leaving the city because the next gas station may be closed. Credit cards are accepted, but in rural areas, you need cash, and ATMs are also scarce.

Mountain roads are a complete challenge. There are no directional signs, streams flowing across the road, wandering animals, and dirt paths. There is no phone signal in the mountains, so navigation does not work.

A popular form of local transport is "marshrutkas," which are small vans that run to practically every small town. If you are unsure of the route and a marshrutka passes you, it means the road is passable and you are heading towards "civilization."

GEORGIA

July 2021

travel memories and some practical tips