Scotland - Edinburgh
We allocated a few days for a visit to Scotland. A flight ticket from London to the capital, Edinburgh (plus return), costs around £200 depending on the departure times. In the cheapest option with Ryanair, we only take a small carry-on backpack, which is quite sufficient during the summer. We must also add the costs of getting to Stansted Airport in London and Edinburgh Airport - around £60 for all transfers.
The Kingdom of Scotland was established in the 9th century and lasted until 1707 when it officially united with Great Britain. Over the centuries, it waged continuous wars with England in defense of its sovereignty. Currently, cultural and historical distinctiveness is also emphasized, and the Bank of Scotland issues pounds with entirely different graphics and the inscription "Bank of Scotland". Pounds issued in England and Scotland, of course, have the same value and are accepted throughout the United Kingdom, but I once experienced that they were suspiciously examined by a shopkeeper in Cambridge.
Cambridge
Even in Roman times, it was a large trading center, but it gained the most fame from the university founded in 1209. A little-known fact is that the first football matches were played here, and the basic rules of the game were developed and published in sports newspapers in 1863.
Just like in Oxford, we attended open days, so not all campuses could be visited. However, the first stop on the agenda was the Fitzwilliam Museum, which belongs to the University of Cambridge. It was founded in 1816, and the art collection boasts over 500,000 items. I was most impressed by the exhibition of French Impressionists. I didn't think there was such a rich collection outside of France, and moreover, it is available for free. There is also a large section on Egyptian art and classical paintings from the Dutch school.
Canterbury
The city is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the number of monuments, some of which have survived since Roman times. It is visited by over a million tourists annually, which is its main source of income.
The cathedral, whose origins date back to the 6th century, was thoroughly rebuilt in the 12th century and has retained its original shape. It is the seat of the archbishopric of the Anglican Church and its worldwide capital. Following an earthquake in Dover in 1382 with a magnitude of about 6 on the Richter scale, it was partially damaged. Repairs and expansions continued until the mid-15th century. The tallest tower reaches a height of 72 meters, and to maintain its stability, supporting arches were added. Before your visit, it is worth checking the website https://www.canterbury-cathedral.org where you can find opening hours (in summer, the last entry is at 4:00 PM) and purchase tickets online. The number of visitors is limited, and we must reserve entry for a specific time. A ticket costs £19.50.
We arrived too late to enter the cathedral itself, but we could walk around the abbey along with the courtyards and cloisters. There was still plenty to see, so we do not regret our visit.
Dover
The closest place in the United Kingdom to continental Europe. To Cap Gris Nezin France, it is only 33 km away. Regular ferry services operate across the channel, known in the UK as the "English Channel." It is one of the busiest ferry routes in the world. Approximately 12 million passengers, 2.6 million trucks, 2.2 million cars, and nearly a million tourist coaches are transported annually.
The biggest tourist attraction is the "White Cliffs" rising 110 meters above sea level. On clear days, they can be seen with binoculars from the French coast. The line of white chalk cliffs stretches for about 13 kilometers and constitutes a national park.
Richmond
A town on the outskirts of London, which can be reached by the South Western railway line. An open return ticket costs around £9, and the journey from central London takes less than an hour.
Famous for its parks, botanical gardens, and extensive fields preserved as a nature reserve. It is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. While wandering the area, we may encounter many wild animals living there in some symbiosis with humans. Signs indicate a ban on feeding and getting closer than 50 meters.
You can bring a packed lunch and have a full-day picnic on a blanket near the lakes. However, let's remember the existing ban on swimming.
England, Scotland
September 2018, November 2021, November 2023, July 2025
Wandering through narrow streets, we can admire iconic cars from the mid-20th century. Returning to the Thames via the yellow tube line, we will reach the Millennium Bridge - a pedestrian footbridge that was scheduled to open in June 2000. The haste in construction caused instability in the structure. After two days of use, the crossing was closed and reconstruction began. The reopening took place in 2022. From here, we have an excellent view of St. Paul's Cathedral, and in the opposite direction, the Tate Modern gallery and the thatched Shakespeare's Theatre.
Returning to the film with Julia Roberts - you can take the yellow Circle line metro to Notting Hill and visit the street market on Portobello Road. Its tradition dates back to the late 19th century. On weekdays, the stalls stretch for several kilometers along the street, but on Saturdays and Sundays they also include side alleys. The travel book shop inspired by the film enjoys continuous interest.
Heading towards Holborn Street, we arrive at a group of Victorian red brick buildings from the early 20th century. The official name Holborn Bars is often replacedby Prudential Assurance Building, as this was the main headquarters of the insurance company. Prudential still owns the property but moved its offices in 1999.
Another historic house in central London, "Staple Inn," was built in 1586. The wooden structure has survived all disasters. Initially, it housed a wool wholesale business, and now it hosts shops and the Institute of Actuaries (financial risk assessment).
In front of the church entrance stands a column with two knights on a single horse. This is a distinguishing mark of the Templars, already visible on wax seals dating back to the 12th century. The interpretations of the symbol vary greatly, from poverty and frugality to the duality of the order's foundation - being both monks and knights. The monument was erected in 2000 to commemorate the entry into the third millennium. Behind the monument in the courtyard, there is a restaurant - unfortunately accessible only to members of legal guilds.
Returning to Fleet Street, we arrive at the Twinings Flagship Store, the oldest tea shop in London, which has been in operation for 300 years. The entrance is almost opposite the Royal Courts. Next to it is one of the older pubs - The George, built in 1723.
In the middle of Fleet Street stands the Temple Bar Memorial. Erected in 1880, it marked the boundary of the City of London. During state ceremonies, the Lord Mayor gives official permission for the king to enter the city.
Perhaps due to the rain and the season, Trafalgar Square was empty. Particularly absent were the pigeons, which a few years ago were a complete plague here. The mood was lifted by the holiday decorations that began appearing in early November.
St. Paul's Cathedral was built on the ruins of the Norman cathedral, which was the largest church in medieval Europe. It was larger than the current cathedral, but was completely consumed by the Great Fire of London in 1666. The construction of the new cathedral was completed in 1710. It is slightly smaller than St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. The cathedral's organ is equipped with 7189 pipes and 5 manuals (keyboards). They are the third largest organs in the United Kingdom.
The entrance ticket to the cathedral costs £20.50 and includes an audio guide (available in Polish). We can also climb the stairs to the Whispering Gallery and further up to the Stone Gallery. The Whispering Gallery has wonderful acoustics, and we can hear a whisper from another person from 30 meters away. The Stone Gallery offers a magnificent view of London. The movement is one-way only, and to get to the top we must climb 643 steps. The entrance to the first gallery is via a staircase, while we ascend to the second through open latticework, causing some people to turn back. However, I highly recommend going up as we will be much higher than the London Eye (where tickets are more expensive - starting at £33).
In the cathedral's crypt, you must visit the catacombs, and at the exit, we can grab a bite to eat and shop at the gift store.
From the cathedral, we can head to the Holborn district, where on Fleet Street we find the famous Royal Courts of Justice known from many films. Scenes for Notting Hill were filmed here, among others. The district is an enclave of lawyers, including the legal areas of Inner Temple and Middle Temple, home to the famous Temple Church - a church built by the Templars in 1185. The final action of Dan Brown's "The Da Vinci Code" takes place here.
To visit the Temple, you should check the opening hours on the Temple Church website https://www.templechurch.com. During this time, the gates to the Temple are open; otherwise, the entire area may be closed to tourists. The entrance to the church costs £5, and with the ticket, we receive a guide with descriptions and locations of individual artifacts. You can also climb the spiral staircase to the gallery with a beautiful floor. The continuity of care for the church by one order results in the preservation of the original interior with tombs from the 12th century.
What do we eat in England and Scotland?
Traditional English cuisine is not very popular with us (I don't know why). It has been overshadowed by Asian dishes, thanks to their prices and availability in small family-run pubs (often street food).
- roasted rare steak with fries
- Sunday roast (various meats)
- fish & chips, which is fried fish with fries
- baked potatoes with toppings of choice
- roasted sausages
- hamburgers
- Haggis in Scotland
- Irn Bru in Scotland
- shrimp cocktail
- Asian cuisine.
Our recommendations
- the Wetherspoons pub chain
- a visit to York, Cambridge, Oxford, Canterbury
- the cliffs at Dover
- Cutty Sark
- Westminster Abbey
- the Natural History Museum
- a tour with Highland Experience Tour in Scotland
- small provincial towns.
Interesting Facts
Kilt- a traditional Scottish garment with a history dating back to the 16th century. Initially, it was a very long cloak worn by highlanders. Besides serving as an outer garment during the day, it provided bedding on cold nights spent in the pastures. It was about 2 meters wide and 4 to 6 meters long, and was typically a solid color. Wearing it required a special arrangement on the ground, crumpling it, and lying on it. Then, user had to wrap it properly, fasten it with a belt, and drape the hanging portion over the shoulder and secure it with a buckle.
Over time, the outfit was modified into a skirt made of tartan (the Scottish check). Tartan patterns are officially registered by the Scottish Tartans Society (established in 1963), and there are currently about 2,700 of them, including clans, each with its distinct appearance.
Clan - a group of residents related to each other. Mountain clans were loyal to the rightful rulers of Scotland and actively participated in all battles against England. Attempts to break them up by invaders contributed to the strengthening of traditions, allowing the clan structure to survive into modern times. Clans often fought against each other, conquering smaller clans and annexing their lands.
Haggis - a traditional Scottish dish, akin to our blood sausage. Initially served in a sheep's stomach, it is now presented in a casing made from intestines or wrapped in flaky pastry.
Irn Bru - a carbonated drink available in cans or bottles (similar to our orangeade). It was introduced to the market in 1901 and was initially called Iron Brew. Since it was not brewed like beer, this name was prohibited. Production remains in private hands, and sales in Scotland surpass those of the largest global corporations.
Loch - a body of water that is either a closed lake or similar to a Norwegian fjord. Often, these are river mouths and partially contain fresh water despite being connected to the sea.
Highlands and Loch Ness
We booked a full-day tour to the mountains. The price is around 70 GBP depending on the chosen option. The itinerary included a drive to Loch Ness, a boat trip on the lake, a visit to Urquhart Castle, and a tour of the mountain towns of Inverness, Spean Bridge, Glen Coe, and Ballachulish.
We took advantage of the Highland Experience Tour, and our driver and guide Alan provided great entertainment and unique stories about the history and traditions of Scotland (https://www.highlandexperience.com/). The tour lasts 13 hours, so it's worth bringing drinks and something to eat (meal costs are not included). Warm clothing is also necessary, especially during the boat trip on the lake. There are many breaks along the way for using restrooms and doing grocery shopping.
Leaving Edinburgh, we can admire the historic lattice railway bridge over the River Forth. Built in the late 19th century, it measures 2.5 km. The main spans are 110 m high and 521 m long. Trains travel at a height of 50 meters, using 54,000 tons of steel and over 6.5 million rivets.
The landscapes of the Scottish Highlands will long remain in memory due to their colors enriched by lakes and rivers. The highest peak in the United Kingdom, Ben Nevis, which is part of the crown of Europe, stands at 1,345 meters. Despite the mild climate of the islands, there are 5 ski resorts that operate for almost 100 days a year:
Cairngorm Mountain – 11 lifts
Glencoe Mountain Resort – 8 lifts
Glenshee Ski Centre – 21 lifts
Nevis Range – 12 lifts
The Lecht – 14 lifts.
We regret that the tight schedule did not allow for a few days of trekking in the mountains.
The Urquhart Castle, built on the shores of the lake, dates back to the 13th century. It was one of the royal castles, and in 1509 it was gifted to the Grant clan. Frequently attacked by the rival MacDonald clan, it was never captured. It fell into ruin by the end of the 17th century and has remained in that state to this day.
Loch Ness stretches nearly 37 km and has a depth of 230 meters. In terms of water volume, it is the largest body of water in the United Kingdom, and its total volume is greater than the sum of all the lakes in England and Wales. It is part of the Caledonian Canal, which opened in 1810. This canal connects the eastern and western coasts of Scotland and is over 100 km long. The Loch Ness Monster (commonly known as Nessie) became a global sensation in 1934 when amateur photographs were published. It turned out to be a hoax by the photographer, but it attracted hordes of tourists to the area.
The beaches in the Portobello district by the North Sea allow for relaxation after a whole day of sightseeing in the city.
If you have enough time, I recommend a walk up Arthur's Seat. There is a gentle ascent from the city side, but you should set aside at least half a day for the trip.
Opposite the modern parliament building is the Palace of Holyrood, the official royal residence. The eastern entrance has been converted into a row of exclusive shops. The history of the building dates back to the 16th century when King of Scotland - James IV married Margaret Tudor in the ruins of the abbey adjacent to the palace (the ruins still stand in the palace park). It is open for tours when no official ceremonies are taking place. A ticket costs £22 and must be purchased online at https://www.rct.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse#book_tickets.
The "Royal Mile" cemetery, apart from Polish accents, was a filming location for the Harry Potter movie. Cedric Diggory died here, transported by a "portkey" from the maze where he was racing against Harry.
The neo-Romanesque cathedral built in 1814 captivates with its interior. It is a Catholic church and a venue for organ festivals. Entrance is "free" - a symbolic donation of at least 2 GBP is required. If you don’t have change, you can pay by card (they don’t accept Blik yet :-).
The park by the castle is an excellent place to relax. The expansive lawns are usually occupied by tourists waiting for trains. The atmosphere is enriched by bagpipers playing traditional Scottish folk tunes. It turns out that the Polish term "kobza" we use here is completely incorrect. The kobza is a string instrument that resembles a lute. The correct Polish name is "dudy". The instrument was known in the Roman army and became popular in Europe in the 15th century. So in Poland we should say "dudziarz" not "kobziarz."
We can reach the cathedral of St. Mary from the castle along the main street of the old town. Along the way, we find the largest selection of souvenir shops and restaurants.
We flew in from London in the morning, and the apartment was only available from 3:00 PM. The journey from the airport to the city center by bus or tram takes about 25 minutes. So we started our sightseeing from the area near the train station. The "Scott Monument" - a soaring 61-meter tower built in 1844 is dedicated to the author of "Rob Roy", Walter Scott. At St. Andrew's Square, we stumbled upon a parade of old military vehicles completely by chance. I'm not entirely sure what the occasion was, but on June 28, 2022, there was a referendum in Scotland for separation from the United Kingdom (anniversary?).
The old town, located on a hill, is quite a compact area that we can explore in one day. You can use the "Hop on - hop off" tour bus, but it winds around in circles through narrow streets that can easily be navigated on foot (a ticket valid for 24 hours costs about 20 GBP).
The fortress and the settlement around it gave rise to the city as early as the 7th century, but it only became the capital of Scotland in the 15th century. It is situated in a deep bay of the North Sea at the mouth of the River Forth. The castle, towering over the bay, is one of the most fortified fortresses in the kingdom and has survived over 26 invasions in its history. Admission costs 21.5 GBP and should be purchased in advance, preferably on the website https://tickets.historic-scotland.gov.uk/webstore/shop. The number of visitors is limited, so by the afternoon, all tickets are sold out. The hill rises over 120 meters above sea level and is a remnant of an ancient volcano.
All campuses have access to the river and it is private property. You can only see them inside from the water. Bridges span the river, allowing students to move quickly between classes. Wealthier universities have even two bridges, while poorer ones have none. Therefore, students must rely on friendly crossings, which can be troublesome. Anecdotes suggest that the poorest campuses didn't even have their own toilets, forcing students to run to neighbors at night.
Those attending the mass are asked not to leave the ceremony after taking their seats. This causes unnecessary confusion, so if you just want to peek in, please stand right by the entrance and then discreetly "slip away." You can also take a look at the university courtyard and the neighboring buildings.
The streets of the town resemble the architecture of York, and in my opinion, they are more interesting architecturally than Oxford. Once we reach the River Cam, we must definitely book a punt boat ride. A group of 4 will cost you about 150 GBP in the afternoon. The last rides take place around 6:00 PM. In the morning, they are cheaper - around 80 to 100 GBP for 4 people. The ride lasts about an hour, and the operator (usually a student working during the holidays) will share interesting stories and customs at the university.
The Pembroke campus was generally accessible, but the area of the royal university with the cathedral was closed to visitors (the ticket costs £16). However, a queue of people gradually formed at the entrance. "Evening songs" sounded interesting, so we took our seats. Shortly after, we participated in the evening service in the Anglican rite at the cathedral. If anyone hasn't been, I highly recommend it. Beautiful music performed by the male choir and powerful organs. The priestess read passages from the Bible, with no sermons or speeches to the faithful. Participation is free, and the experience will linger for a long time.
The western city gate over the River Stour is the oldest in England. It was built in 1379. The 18-meter towers house a museum of crime, torture, and wars. A ticket costs 4 GBP. You can also spend time in the "Escape Room" and earn a certificate for just 35 GBP in the categories of murder or torture and punishing criminals. The gardens by the river provide a chance to relax after the experiences at the western gate.
Two train stations allow for crossing the city and returning by train to London from the second station.
The old half-timbered townhouses are preserved in excellent condition. We will find plenty of places to eat and do some souvenir shopping.
The tight schedule of the day did not allow us to visit the castle, and we could only view it from a distance. The main goal was a walk along the cliffs. I recommend wearing good shoes because the descents and ascents are quite steep. We should stick to the designated paths because shortcuts end in cliffs, and you have to turn back. The views are unforgettable, and during low tide, you can descend to a section of the beach below the cliffs. We also have an excellent view of the port and the ferry terminal.
I think that exploring Dover requires a whole day. Our ambitious plan included traveling by train from London to Dover, then traveling and visiting Canterbury, and returning to London. It might be worth reversing the direction because the cathedral in Canterbury is only open until 4 PM, while we can access the cliffs until dusk. A group "open" ticket for the journey London-Dover-Canterbury-London costs under 40 GBP.
We can start our tour at the castle located on the hill. Built in the 11th century, this fortress is considered the largest in England (it competes for primacy with Windsor Castle). Its systematic expansion for the needs of the garrison led to the creation of a network of tunnels located 15 meters underground in the early 19th century. The first group of soldiers was accommodated in them in 1803.
During World War II, a military hospital and a telephone exchange operated in the tunnels. After the war, the location was considered for a government command center in case of a nuclear conflict. Ultimately, the idea was abandoned as the chalk rocks were deemed too vulnerable to radiation.
The entrance ticket costs £26 and can be purchased online at https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/dover-castle.
The main campus was built right next to the 12th-century cathedral, and it is impossible to miss it during a visit. It may not be a monumental structure on a European scale, but it has a magnificent interior with a beautiful floor and stained glass windows.
We can conclude our visit with a walk along the boulevards by the Thames, which is very narrow here and does not resemble the river flowing through London.
The buffet next to the dining room is dedicated to the rowing races held on the Thames in London between the Oxford and Cambridge teams. They have been taking place regularly since 1856, with breaks during World War I and II.
At High Street, we reach the university's main campus. The scorching summer has completely dried out the lawns of the courtyard, blending their color with the facades of the historic buildings (what a pity). The main staircase and the large dining hall built in the 16th century served as the backdrop for the Harry Potter adventure films. The walls of the dining hall are adorned with portraits of the most distinguished alumni.
Founded in 1602, the Bodleian Library is the second largest in the United Kingdom. Its collections exceed 15 million volumes. It is also the official registry of all publications in the UK and Ireland, which means that every book published in these countries since 2003 must be kept here in at least one copy.
Opposite it lies the "Bridge of Sighs" connecting the two parts of Hertford College. The name refers to the famous bridge in Venice, although that one leading to the city jail does not promise a bright future, unlike the opportunities for gaining knowledge. Perhaps the students feel like prisoners of the university?
We were quite lucky because during our entire stay in both Oxford and Cambridge, open days were held at the universities. Generally, access to the campuses was reserved exclusively for prospective students. Some schools strictly adhered to this, while others had their doors open to everyone. Moreover, the entrances were free, whereas, for example, a ticket to the cathedral in Oxford costs £22 - £24 depending on the day of the week.
In the oval square at the center of the campuses stands the cylindrical Radcliffe Camera - a library and reading room built in the 18th century. Opposite it is the university church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, where musical concerts are regularly held.
Before the church schism, there were often riots in Oxford between the academic community and the Catholic residents of the city. In 1209, two students were hanged on charges of murder. This led to the departure of some teachers and students to Cambridge and the establishment of the second most famous university. The climax of the riots occurred during the feast of St. Scholastica in 1355 when 93 people were killed in the brawls.
Walking from the train station towards the old town, we will pass the castle built at the end of the 12th century. It never fulfilled its defensive function but for centuries served as a local prison, which was only closed in 1996.
Measuring 23 meters, Carfax Tower is a remnant of the 12th-century St. Martin's Church. It stands at the crossroad of the main streets of the old town by High Street. If we turn left, we will reach the Covered Market - a hall of markets where, in addition to buying souvenirs, we can eat something cheaply.
From the royal observatory hill in Greenwich, we have a beautiful view of the maritime school, the Thames, and central London. Founded in 1675, the observatory is famous for the zero meridian marker located in its gardens. Its location and the division of the globe into meridians was approved at the Washington conference in 1884. 100 years later, research by an international committee shifted the original position 102 meters to the east. Entry to the observatory and gardens is paid and costs £12. However, you can take a free photo against the symbolic marker on a section of the wall.
The pedestrian tunnel under the Thames, opened in 1902, is nearly 400 meters long and located 15 meters underground. It replaced ferry crossings that transported workers to the docks and shipyards on Dog Island. It was partially destroyed during World War II, but after reconstruction and the installation of elevators at the entrances, it is still used by about 4,000 people daily.
In addition to the royal observatory and the prime meridian, the Greenwich area is famous for its maritime school featuring the last sailing clipper, Cutty Sark, and a pedestrian underground tunnel beneath the Thames.
Cutty Sark was launched in Scotland in 1869, intended for transporting tea from China. It was the fastest of the sailing ships, reaching speeds of up to 18 knots. In comparison, modern container ships can achieve speeds of up to 25 knots, but fuel consumption forces shipowners to reduce speeds to 12-15 knots.
With 6 sails on the main masts, it had a total sail area of nearly 3000 square meters, and the crew consisted of only 30 people. In a day, the clipper could cover about 650 kilometers and reach China in 90 days. After the opening of the Suez Canal and the improvement of steam engines, it was redirected to routes to Australia for wool transport.
The name was given in honor of the witch Nannie Dee who adorned the bowsprit. The witch appeared to a drunken Scottish farmer returning home near a haunted church. She wore a rather revealing shirt, prompting the farmer to call her Cutty Sark, which in Scots means a short shirt.
In 1896, the clipper was sold to Portugal and used as a training ship. After losing some masts in 1916, it was converted into a brigantine and used as a cargo ship. It wasn't until 1922 that it was repurchased and brought back to England. From 1938 to 1954, it served as a training ship for cadet school, and then it ended up in dry dock in Greenwich.
During the renovation, two fires broke out on it, but ultimately, as a museum ship, it was opened to the public in 2012. In the bow section of the deck, there is an exhibition of figureheads (figures on the bowsprit), we explore two levels of decks inside the hull, an open deck, crew cabins, and then take an elevator down to the dry dock to view the hull from below. There we will also find a restaurant, and at the entrance, a souvenir shop. The ticket costs £22. For an additional £60, we can reserve a climb up the masts in a special harness under the supervision of an instructor.
The Tower of London has been associated primarily with the most notorious prison for over 900 years of its history. Political opponents, including crowned heads, were held here. The last prisoner in 1941 was Rudolf Hess, Hitler's deputy, who flew alone to England on a "peace mission." There was no escape from the Tower as the only entrance was located at the water landing on the Thames.
Over the centuries, there was also a royal palace built in 1220 by Henry III, as well as a royal zoo where exotic animals were kept for the court's amusement. The White Tower, built in 1097 and standing 30 meters tall, was the highest building in London.
The Tower is still inhabited by guardians along with their families, who are supported by the state. Becoming a "Yeoman" guard, also known as a "beefeater," is a special honor. There are only 37 guards, and a vacancy arises only upon the death of a predecessor. A Yeoman can only be a professional soldier after 22 years of impeccable service. The candidate must be awarded a medal for long service and exemplary conduct. The Yeoman's duty is to protect the fortress, supervise tourists, and care for the ravens.
The ravens have a food allowance provided in the kingdom's budget, and a designated guard is responsible for daily shopping and feeding the birds. If the ravens leave the Tower, the kingdom will fall, so the legend goes. Currently, the ravens kept at the Tower have their flight feathers trimmed and cannot fly.
Among the additional unwritten "duties" of the Yeoman is posing for photos with tourists, and I must admit they handle this with calmness and a smile on their faces. In 2007, the first woman joined the ranks of the guards. In the photo, we stand together with the lady guard.
The fortress houses the royal treasury, which is one of its main attractions. Here we will see the most valuable artifacts related to the history of England: the Crown Jewels, robes, and gold tableware. In the section with the most valuable exhibits, we stand on a moving walkway to avoid blocking traffic. Unfortunately, no photographs can be taken, which is strictly enforced, and I do not advise trying.
As a memento of the former zoo in the Tower, artificial animals now stroll around the fortress.
The drawbridge Tower Bridge got its name due to its proximity to the fortress. Opened in 1894, it is not an old structure compared to other London landmarks, but it is a city icon. The original steam drive has been replaced by electric motors, and the bridge spans are still raised.
There is an option to tour the bridge, during which we enter one of the towers, cross to the other side via the upper walkway (34 meters above the roadway, with a glass floor), descend the second tower, and in the bridge's basement, we can see old steam engines and mechanisms for raising the spans.
On the other side of the Thames, opposite the Tower of London, the museum ship HMS Belfast is docked. The ship was launched in 1936. It served during World War II escorting convoys, participated in the Korean War in 1952, and was only decommissioned in 1971. Thanks to public efforts, the ship was preserved and transformed into a museum.
Ticket prices:
- Tower of London 33.6 GBP
- Tower Bridge 12.30 GBP
- HMS Belfast 24.5 GBP.
Guides warn about pickpockets, so we need to keep an eye on our wallets and documents, especially since in some places you have to push through a dense crowd. Camden Town subway station is the most crowded. We didn't even try to enter it, and on the way back, we took the bus. I wouldn't recommend visiting with small children.
Camden Market is the largest market in London. It is visited by over 200,000 people weekly. It is open from 10 AM to 6 PM every day of the year except for Christmas.
Here we can buy crafts, handmade goods, clothing, shoes, glasses, spices, antiques, souvenirs, and electronics. We can take a barge cruise along the narrow canals, passing historic locks along the way. The street food offerings from around the world tempt with their aromas and colors. We will encounter London’s artistic bohemia in unique creations.
The space in St. James's Park along The Mall allows for a bit of a break from the crowds. Please remember to bring nuts for the squirrels. For a park in the city center, there are many interesting species of birds here, clearly accustomed to the sight of people.
In the St. James's Palace, built in the 16th century, Queen Elizabeth II delivered her first speech after the coronation in 1952. Since then, it has been the official place for the accreditation of all ambassadors in the UK. Thanks to the palace, the Piccadilly area has become very fashionable. Here, you'll find the most exclusive shops and clubs.
The traditional Sony advertisement in Piccadilly Circus has been replaced by huge screens displaying dynamically changing images. From Piccadilly Circus, we are close to the Chinatown, which is a must-visit due to its street markets and numerous traditional restaurants.
Nearby the museum is one of the narrowest houses in London, measuring less than 2 meters wide. A great idea is to convert old telephone booths into ATMs.
We started another day by trying to watch the ceremonial Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace. Despite the bad weather, we pushed through the crowds eager to see it as we walked through the park. We didn't take this into account, and it was hard to find a good spot. So it's necessary to arrive well in advance and secure a place by the Victoria monument opposite the main palace gate.
The Natural History Museum is probably the largest natural collection in the world, with over 70 million exhibits. Of course, not all of them are available for visitors. In the few hours we can dedicate to exploring, we will only see a few hundred, and we will remember the largest ones, such as the dinosaur skeletons.
An interesting part is the Earth museum, dedicated to the mechanisms of our planet, starting from the movement of tectonic plates to the formation of gemstones, minerals, and metal ores.
The museum building itself, constructed at the end of the 19th century, is an interesting example of functional architecture. The main hall is illuminated by skylights, and it beautifully showcases.the suspended skeleton of a blue whale - the largest animal currently living on Earth.
The Science Museum and the Natural History Museum in the South Kensington district are adjacent to each other. You can plan a visit in one day. Entry is free, but you must queue for a free ticket (waiting time at each museum is at least 30 minutes). You can "purchase" free tickets online to skip the lines.
The Science Museum has changed a bit since my last visit, and in my opinion, not for the better. There are fewer interesting exhibits, such as the Harrier vertical takeoff aircraft, or the radio cabin interior recreated from the RMS Titanic.
Downstairs remains the display of steam engines with the original Stephenson locomotive - The Racket, a Ford Model T, and a Ferrari steam tractor.
We find a reduced aviation section featuring the aircraft Lockheed L-10 Electra used by the British government before World War II. A new addition is the world's fastest electric aircraft Spirit of Innovation (555.9 km/h). It was placed in the museum on November 1, 2023, and we visited the exhibit the next day.
In the section dedicated to astronautics, there is the Soyuz TMA-19M lander capsule. British astronaut Tim Peake participated in the 185-day space mission. Right next to it is the command capsule from the Apollo 10 mission and, of course, a model of the lunar module.
A few interesting cars remain, including the unique BMW Isetta three-wheeler with a front entrance (I still remember such a marvel driving around Warsaw).
The upper floors have been turned into an IMAX theater and interactive exhibits for school students (the evolution of organisms on Earth, the structure of the human brain, climate change).
The only gravestone that should not be walked upon is the tomb of the unknown soldier buried here on November 11, 1920. Traditionally, in honor of the approaching Memorial Day, it is adorned with poppies.
As we leave the abbey, we pass an interesting building called "Sanctuary," which served as a refuge for those fleeing the law in medieval times.
Along Whitehall towards Trafalgar Square stretches a complex of government buildings. However, if we approach from St. James's Park, we will encounter the government’s wartime headquarters (Churchill War Rooms). It is open for tours, but unfortunately, the entrance ticket costs another 28 GBP.
The Prime Minister's residence at 10 Downing Street is not visible from the park. We must reach Horse Guards Parade, where a ceremonial changing of the horse guard takes place twice daily, and pass through the gates to Whitehall. Of course, entry to Downing Street is closed, so we can only look over the heads of the security and police.
The Cenotaph (war memorial) on Whitehall was complemented in 2005 by the monument "Women of World War II."
Westminster has been the center of political and religious power in England for over 1000 years. The church that existed here in the 11th century was transformed over the centuries into Westminster Abbey. The name of the district actually comes from the word "minster," meaning abbey church.
We were a bit lucky because the years-long renovation of the clock tower at the parliament was recently completed. The popular name "Big Ben" does not refer to the four-faced clock at the top of the tower, but to the 14-ton bell located inside. The clock faces have a diameter of 7.5 meters and the hands are 4.25 meters long.
The Palace of Westminster has been the seat of parliament since the early 16th century. It was previously inhabited by British kings. A fire that consumed much of the building prompted the rulers to move their seat to York.
The abbey located right next to it is a particularly significant place for England. The most important national ceremonies related to the royal family take place here: coronations, weddings, and funerals. Inside, you will find royal graves, as well as the graves of distinguished figures from culture and science. An entry ticket costs £29 and allows the use of an electronic guide (Polish language is not available).
London
One of the most frequently described cities in the world with a rich history, countless monuments, the largest museums, and cultural events. We had several opportunities to visit London over the past few decades, and the most striking change is the modern architecture quite elegantly integrated into the historic districts.
Low-cost airlines use the airports in Stansted and Luton. Stansted, located over 60 km from central London, is quite a large airport by our standards, probably larger than Warsaw's Okęcie. The surprise was significant as we expected something akin to Warsaw Modlin or Radom. There is a special train line to London (ticket price from £15) or one of several bus lines with various routes in central London (ticket price from £11). While there is no problem with train tickets, it is advisable to buy a bus ticket in advance online. The accumulation of morning arrivals can leave us facing long waits at the airport. Unfortunately, the bus journey to London takes about 2 hours. Luton, located slightly closer, is also a large airport, recently equipped with modern baggage scanning devices. It is better to take the train connection at a price of about £10. The train station in Luton is connected to the airport by an automated ground metro, so we no longer need to use an additional bus ride as we did in the past. The train journey takes about an hour.
The sightseeing plan was quite intense, greatly hindered by the dreadful weather. Additionally, the quickly falling darkness in November forced us to return home earlier. What did we see in London?
- the Westminster district (Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Whitehall)
- Science Museum, Natural History Museum
- Piccadilly and St. James, Green Park, around Buckingham Palace
- Soho and Trafalgar Square
- Holborn, Fleet Street, Staple Inn
- Camden Market
- St. Paul's Cathedral
- Tower of London and Tower Bridge
- the Temple district and the Templar church
- Greenwich.
Oxford
The history of the city dates back to the 9th century, and the name comes from the crossing over the Thames, ox (ox) and ford (ford). In the 12th century, King Henry II banned studying at the University of Paris, which forced the establishment of the first institution in England. The choice of Oxford was due to the large concentration of scholars and potential students in the city. Before long, the university became one of the most esteemed in the world.
In 1844, the first railway line connected Oxford with Paddington station in London. A round trip on the 'open' option costs £37 and takes just over an hour. It is best to purchase tickets online and load them onto your phone. The open option allows you to choose trains at any time, but you must check which ones you can actually use (not every train accommodates open ticket travel).
At the beginning of the 20th century, the population quickly increased, and industrial development occurred. The Morris Motor Company car factories were established here, producing the famous Mini. Nevertheless, the city center has retained its historic and distinctly university character.
Liverpool
"The City of the Beatles" is the second largest port in England. It mainly handles freight and passenger traffic to North America. It was granted city rights only in the 12th century, but there was already a settlement here during the Viking era in the 6th century, located among the marshes at the mouth of the River Mersey.
The city experienced rapid development in the 18th and 19th centuries, and the oldest buildings from this period have been preserved. Generally, there aren’t too many monuments here. The most interesting are the old dockyards with warehouses converted into shops, and the Cathedral of Christ the King. The arches in the cathedral have interesting acoustic properties. If we whisper towards the arch, a person standing on the other side will hear everything despite the considerable distance and the noise in the church.
We visited Liverpool, lured by the magic of The Beatles, but I don’t feel the atmosphere left by the band in the city. It’s probably the least interesting place we visited in England.
Ilkley
Like most towns in Yorkshire, the history of Ilkley is linked to a Roman camp established in the 1st century AD. Located closer to Leeds, it became known in the 17th century for the qualities of the local water springs.
In the 19th century, the Middleton family began to build and maintain the "White Wells" - the equivalents of modern-day spas. These were enclosed structures with changing rooms and bathing areas. To this day, the last White Well stands majestically over the town.
The town became fashionable enough that special railway lines were established from Leeds and Bradford. Among the notable visitors were Charles Darwin and Madam Tussaud.
In 1967, Jimi Hendrix performed here. Unfortunately, the concert was interrupted by the police as local newspapers reported that the artist's fans had gone wild. In 1987, on the moors, a retired police officer was abducted by a UFO, where he was subjected to detailed examinations and then released.
Currently, the moors are a popular destination for tourists and novice rock climbers.
Knaresborough
Located 30 km from Leeds, this quiet town was a fortress in the Middle Ages. The name comes from the combination of two Anglo-Saxon words "knarre" (rock) and "burgh" (fortress), meaning fortress on a rock.
It became known when Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury, was murdered here in 1170. The murder was carried out by four assassins on the orders of King Henry II. Another notorious murder occurred in the 18th century when Daniel Clark, a member of a three-man gang of thieves, was killed by his accomplices, and his body was hidden in St. Robert's cave. It was discovered by chance only after 14 years.
Among the dark curiosities remains the 'Petrifying Well'. The River Nidd is rich in minerals. It has been noted that random objects carried by the current become encrusted in a stone coating after being trapped in the water's edge for several months. This led to the deliberate suspension of everyday items on ropes, creating macabre sculptures. Even John Wayne's cowboy hat hangs there.
The railway viaduct over the River Nidd collapsed just before the completion of construction in 1848. Huge amounts of limestone debris caused river pollution and fish deaths. The new viaduct was not completed until 1851, which simultaneously necessitated the relocation of the railway station.
Today, the town is regarded as an excellent place for relaxation and recreation, with the most expensive properties located along the river.
November 11 is a day of remembrance in England and other Western European countries dedicated to the victims of wars. It commemorates the signing of the armistice that ended World War I on November 11, 1918, at 11:00 AM. The symbol is the red poppy worn on clothing and adorning public spaces.
Part of the 19th-century center has been transformed into a pedestrian zone with numerous shopping galleries and exclusive stores of the most prestigious brands.
Not all churches are currently serving the faithful. Due to the rapidly shrinking number of active worshippers, many parishes have been closed, and churches have been converted into public utility buildings. Museums, exhibition and promotion spaces, and even nightclubs are being organized in them.
The cathedral of the Anglican church, which serves as the seat of the bishopric and is also a parish church, originates from a similar period.
The Old Wellington Inn - two timber-framed buildings from the 16th century located in Shambles Square are among the oldest monuments in the city.
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Manchester
Like York, Manchester was established near a Roman fort, but only in the 11th century. It is therefore a city with a much shorter history and does not have such magnificent monuments. For this reason, it is often overlooked by tourists.
However, it is a mecca for football fans due to the clubs Manchester United and Manchester City. For football enthusiasts, the biggest attraction is, of course, visiting both stadiums and the National Football Museum.
Our stay in Manchester took place a year after the bombing at Ariana Grande's concert in 2017. The city was still living with the aftermath of this event, and to pay tribute to the victims, artistic visions of bees were placed in many locations. The worker bee has been a symbol of Manchester since the mid-19th century. The industriousness and cooperation of the residents during the industrial revolution promoted the city as the capital of the textile industry.
The remnants of the economic boom are the market halls on Liverpool Road, now used as marketplaces and warehouses.
The library buildingJohn Rylands, founded in 1900, is a magnificent example of neo-Gothic architecture. From the outside, it looks unassuming, but you must go inside. Even the restrooms command respect by maintaining the original style.
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York
Until the end of the 19th century, York was the largest city in northern England. Its history dates back over 2000 years. In the 2nd century AD, it was the main military base of the Romans, where many emperors resided, and two of them died in York.
In the 9th century, York was captured by the Vikings and only joined England at the end of the 10th century. It became the capital of the county of Yorkshire and the seat of the archbishopric.
The city is famous for its well-preserved monuments, including the largest medieval cathedral in northern Europe. The old town's alleys and the train station are frequent filming locations. Among others, the first part of Harry Potter and Elizabeth I were filmed here. The Shambles, a street unique in Europe, is entirely made up of medieval buildings.
One day is more than enough to walk around the historic part of the city, unless we get stuck in one of the pubs. As regulars claim, there are so many pubs in York that you can spend every day of the year in a different establishment.
The city is crowded with hordes of tourists, aided by its short distance from Leeds. Depending on the chosen train, the journey lasts from half an hour to one hour, and ticket prices start at £4. We get off at the station in York, where Hagrid handed Harry Potter the ticket to Hogwarts.
In addition to typical souvenir shops, we will find a few dedicated solely to the Harry Potter saga. We can become the owners of a Nimbus 2000 broom or a Black Wand. However, the prices are somewhat discouraging.
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Leeds
The history of Leeds dates back to the 13th century when it was merely a manor estate, gradually transforming into a market town in the 16th century. When carbonated water was invented here in 1760, the city became a major center for its production and quickly began to evolve into a significant industrial and commercial hub. From this period, there remains Kirkgate Market - the largest covered market in Europe.
The city is also a major university center (Elliott Hudson College, Leeds City College, Leeds College of Building, University Technical College, University of Leeds). During the school year, over 60,000 students study here. In the evenings, shopping centers, restaurants, pubs, and cafes are filled with young people, and after Saturday nights, city services have a lot to clean up.
The commercial and entertainment center of the city is pedestrianized, allowing for easy wandering between modern and historic buildings.
The River Aire flowing through Leeds and the Leeds-Liverpool Canal constituted a transport connection system between the east and west coasts in the 18th century. The canal, which exceeds 200 km in length, survived World War II and still operates today with some limitations related to the modernization of several locks. In the center of Leeds, the canal widens in several places into dock areas, where comfortable lofts and office buildings currently stand.
What you should know before a trip to England
During previous visits, the United Kingdom was a member of the European Union, so travel could be done with just an ID card. Currently, passport and ETA (Electronic Travel Authorisation) are required. The best way to get ETA is installation of mobile application on your device. ETA is valid for two years and cost 20 GBP.
We managed to explore central England during two visits, with Leeds as our base. We took advantage of cheap flights to Bradford Airport, which is 16 km from Leeds. The bus ride to the city center costs about 2 GBP.
Leeds itself is a very interesting city, and from there, you can plan trips to Manchester, Liverpool, York, Edinburgh (the capital of Scotland), as well as to the quiet towns of Yorkshire and the seaside.
You can use bus services (around 30 GBP for a round trip) or train services, which are slightly more expensive. The exchange rate usually exceeds 5 PLN for 1 GBP. It’s good to have some cash on hand, but all credit cards are accepted. We have been using a Revolut card for several years, which allows for quick currency conversion for payments and can be topped up instantly from any account as long as there is Internet access on a mobile phone. The cost of mobile Internet access post-Brexit is 29 PLN for 1 GB with Play.
You can get the cheapest meals at McDonald's, where a Big Mac meal costs 6.5 GBP. In a pub, you will find a more varied menu, but for the popular fish & chips (fried fish with fries and salad), you will pay about 12 GBP. You can also stick to soup for 5 GBP. And of course, beer, with the average price for a pint being around 4 GBP.
Now we move on to measurement units, where we can get a bit confused:
- distance 1 mile = 1.609 km
- distance 1 yard = 0.91 m
- weight 1 pound = 0.454 kg
- volume 1 pint = 0.568 l, 1 pint is half a quart, and a gallon is 4 quarts, which is 4.546 l
- currency 1 GBP = 100 pence, but only since 1971. Previously, 1 GBP = 20 shillings = 240 pence. Fortunately, time is given in the same units, but usually in a 12-hour format with am (before noon) and pm (after noon) noted.
Driving is on the left side, so be careful at pedestrian crossings. In the centers of large cities, there is usually a warning before entering the crosswalk, but on side streets, you need to concentrate hard to look in the right direction.
The United Kingdom, or Great Britain, is a union of the kingdoms of England, Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland, which differ culturally. The union occurred in 1801, and Queen Victoria ascended the throne in 1837. During her reign, which lasted until 1901, the country experienced the greatest economic development, transforming into a global empire with numerous overseas colonies.
The official language is English, but local dialects create significant difficulties in communication, even for those who speak "bookish English". Communication is great in London, but it will be much more difficult in Cwmbran in Wales.