Our recommendations

- hot air balloon ride

- snorkeling on the reef

- beginner diving session

- Jazz Pyramids hotel in Giza (I've never seen so many       Hoopoes)

- night show under the pyramids in Giza

- boat cruise on the Nile

What is worth eating?

- fish and other seafood

- ful medames (stew of cooked fava beans with garlic and onion)

- falafel (chickpea or fava bean patties)

- hawawshi (pita filled with spicy beef stew and parsley)

- mahshi (baked vegetables stuffed with meat filling)

- mulukhiyah (broth soup with a puree of chopped leafy greens)

- koshari (stew made with rice, pasta, lentils, spicy tomato sauce, and fried onions)

- spreads for bread (Tahini, Hummus, Baba ghanoush, Harrisa)

Thanks

Every organized trip carries some risk that its program or course may disappoint us. Much depends on the organizer, but most of all on the guide. We cannot fault Rainbow Tour - the program met our expectations 100%. The trip was excellently organized, with very good hotels and meals.

Special thanks to our guide Mustafa, who made this journey even more interesting. Besides details related to history, we learned many fascinating things about daily life in modern Egypt. Mustafa took care of the smallest details during the trip and fulfilled our most unexpected requests. Huge thanks :-)

Diving

If you're starting an adventure with diving, where better than in Egypt? The resorts along the Red Sea offer a full range of courses to obtain PADI certification. The basic 3-day course costs about 360 Euros, and I've never encountered such a short training period anywhere else.

Only in Egypt you can take advantage of one-on-one diving instruction for complete beginners. The trip costs around 100 Euros and includes two 15-minute dives on a reef located a few kilometers from the shore. Underwater, you'll be accompanied by a photographer with a camera, and the training lasts about 10 minutes.

You will learn how to use the mouthpiece of the oxygen apparatus and how to clear it of water. What to do to equalize pressure and unblock your ears. How to blow water out of your mask and how to communicate with the instructor using gestures. You have no idea how the buoyancy vest works, and without a special watch with a compass and depth gauge, you won't know how to return to the boat after a while.

It's a very interesting experience because you'll quickly find out if you like this sport and if it's worth spending time and money on a professional course. The stress is immense, especially on the first descent when you focus on calm, even breathing and equalizing your ears. Water flows into the mask, but since you're breathing through your mouth, it shouldn't be too bothersome. However, it is bothersome because the salt irritates your nose and eyes, so you need to get rid of it.

The equipment weighs several dozen kilograms, and in the water, it adjusts your buoyancy along with a weight belt, but getting back on board via a ladder digging into your feet is not easy. The crew pulls you up by the head, and somehow it works out. Of course, you have to take off your fins before climbing the ladder, or else your legs get tangled.

But the views are magnificent, and you manage to dive down to 8 meters, although your ears hurt a bit. I won't be tempted to take a course after this experience. It's nice to swim in warm seas among colorful reefs and plenty of underwater creatures, but where can you see that in Polish waters? Another attempt in a year or two for 30 minutes? Snorkeling by the reef provides similar sensations. If you hit a good spot, you'll see essentially the same thing without any extra costs. I know that diving enthusiasts won't agree with me, but you can't do everything in life.

As a keepsake, you "receive" a recorded photo session along with a video for about 100 Euros. I must admit that the service is very professional and ensures safety. During the cruise, you have access to cold and hot drinks, as well as lunch served in the yacht's galley. In the evening, the photos and videos are ready for pickup on the website (you receive a secure link to your session after payment).

Egypt

July 2024

The flight over the city lasts more than 20 minutes, which gives an idea of its size. The suburbs stretch for miles - the journey from the airport to the hotel in Giza took 2 hours. There is no defined city center or main streets, and the only walking areas frequented by tourists are located near the most expensive hotels along the Nile.

The Museum and Selected Monuments in Cairo

The Citadel of Saladin, towering over the city, was built in the late 12th century for defense against the Crusaders. Until 1849, it served as the residence of the rulers of Egypt. For 700 years, it was repeatedly remodeled at their command. Among the most interesting monuments within its walls is the mosqueof Muhammad Ali known as the "Alabaster Mosque."

Construction began in 1824 and continued for the next 24 years. The central dome, with a diameter of 21 meters, rises to a height of 52 meters. The two minarets stand at a height of 82 meters. In the marble tomb inside lies the last ruler Muhammad Ali..

The main material used for construction was limestone, which was supplied from Giza. Fragments of the outer smooth cladding fell over the centuries and accumulated at the foot of the pyramids, providing building material for the residents of Cairo.

The interior walls of the mosque up to a height of 11 meters were lined with alabaster. In the courtyard, there is a fountain where pilgrims could wash their feet, as well as a tower with the famous non-functioning clock gifted by France.

Fort Qaitbay, known as the "Alexandrian Citadel," was built in the late 15th century at the entrance to the port. It was considered one of the strongest fortresses along the entire Mediterranean coast. It was built on the ruins of the famous lighthouse of Pharos, which was destroyed by earthquakes in the 11th and 14th centuries. Alongside the Library of Alexandria, it was regarded as the "seventh wonder of the ancient world."

The fortifications lost significance with the development of military technology. After being bombarded by the British fleet in 1882, they gradually fell into ruin and were completely abandoned by the end of the century. Their reconstruction took place in stages and was ultimately completed in 1984.

From their walls, we have the most beautiful view of the coastal part of Alexandria. Unfortunately, during our visit, scaffolding marred the front of the fortifications.

Roman excavations in Alexandria have been conducted by Polish archaeologists since 1960. The ruins of the amphitheater, fragments of baths with cisterns, and residential houses are open for visitors. Compared to Roman monuments in Jordan (the amphitheater in Amman and the city in Jerash), they do not make a big impression, but they are usually included in the tour itinerary for groups from Poland.

The catacombs were discovered accidentally in 1900. The owner of a herd of donkeys found one of the animals with its leg trapped in a hole. It turned out to be an entrance buried for centuries (the graves date from the 2nd to the 4th century AD). The structure is completely different from what we saw in Rome. We descend into a round staircase, from which branches lead to individual corridors. The burial niches carved into the rock are quite spacious and could accommodate several hundred people. Of the three levels discovered so far, only the highest one is open to visitors.

The wooden figures of the writer and the priest make a huge impression, their eyes made of rock crystal look alive. The pyramid explorers were terrified - seeing them in the torchlight, they thought they were real people.

Alexandria

Some people advise against a trip to Alexandria, preferring to relax in a hotel. I believe it is worth taking a ride just to reach the Mediterranean Sea and travel across Egypt from the southern to the northern border.

This second-largest city was founded in 332 B.C. by Alexander the Great. There was previously a settlement here, Rhakotis, whose origins date back to 2600 B.C. Alexandria was the capital of the state for nearly 1000 years during the reign of the Ptolemies. It is now the largest seaport in Egypt.

The walls of the staircase are adorned with perfectly preserved papyri from the tomb of Tutankhamun. In this company, there could not be a lack of the statue of Queen Hatshepsut in the form of a Sphinx.

I took the picture of the golden mask of Tutankhamun from the Internet, but I was able to take the photos on the left of his golden throne and the jackal Anubis guarding the tomb myself.

The smallest statue, measuring a few centimeters, depicts King Cheops. Nearby stands a two-meter statue of Khafre made of dark diorite, which is not found in Egypt. A falcon symbolizing Horus sits on the back of the king's head. Viewing the pedestal from behind, we only see Horus with outstretched wings. The royal "triad" is completed by the statue of Mykerinos accompanied by the goddess Hathor and a woman symbolizing Egypt.

The Egyptian Museum in Cairo, opened in 1902, has been in the process of moving to a modern complex near the pyramids in Giza for several years. Its opening date has been systematically postponed since 2018. As a result, part of the 160,000 collected exhibits is unavailable to visitors, including the mummies of the kings of Egypt. The old museum still features the exhibition from the tomb of Tutankhamun, which contains 1,700 exhibits. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited in this area and is strictly enforced.

The Church of St. Sergius, dating from the 4th century AD, was traditionally built on the site where the Holy Family is said to have stayed during their time in Egypt. Evidence of this is the crypt located in the lower part of the church, which we enter through a special entrance. We have to wait a moment in line because everyone wants to take a picture here.

Geophysical studies rule out the possibility that this was the original site of the Holy Family's stay since the crypt was built in the 2nd century AD. It has been established that it was constructed over an even older structure located 5 meters below, so perhaps there is some truth in the legend?

The "Suspended" Church or the "Stairs" Church is one of the oldest Coptic churches in Egypt, with a history dating back to the 3rd century AD. It was built above the gate that once led to a Roman fortress, which is where its name comes from. Currently, there are 29 steps leading up to it.

It is the seat of the Pope of Alexandria - the spiritual leader of Coptic Christians. In front of the 13th-century pulpit stand 13 columns, representing Jesus and the 12 apostles. According to Coptic tradition, the column of Judas is black, while that of St. Thomas is gray.

Located also within the "Greater Cairo" area, Memphis was the first capital of Egypt during the Old Kingdom. It was founded around 3000 BC, and to this day, only the remnants of the royal palace and the foundations of the temple remain.

In the archaeological museum, there is a lying statue of Ramses II made of limestone and measuring 10 meters. This is essentially the only thing worth seeing in Memphis, so I also advise against a trip from Cairo to Memphis solely for this purpose. It can be visited while touring Saqqara. The museum is also another opportunity to buy souvenirs.

Saqqara and Memphis

Located on the outskirts of Cairo, Saqqara is the burial site of Egypt's first kings. The main attraction is the step pyramid of King Djoser from the Third Dynasty, considered the oldest pyramid in the world. It was built around 2650 BC when the technique for constructing pyramids was not yet mastered. Recent research suggests that the pyramids in Peru are equally old and, interestingly, have a similar structure.

It consists of 6 stacked layers (mastabas) that were gradually expanded. Initially, the structure was less than 10 meters tall and did not rise above the walls surrounding the necropolis. Ultimately, it reached a height of 62.5 meters with a base measurement of 121 by 109 meters.

The area around resembles a miniature version of the capital, designed to provide the king with a worthy environment in the afterlife. We enter the large courtyard in front of the pyramid through a colonnade leading from the gate. Several smaller buildings and pyramids are located nearby. We can enter one of them without additional fees. The corridor leading to the burial chamber is 1.2 meters high and approximately 20 meters long. Not everyone has the courage to squeeze through, but the chamber itself is quite spacious, and it is worth reaching it to understand the structure of the tomb.

The City of Garbage

Imagine a medium-sized city in Poland functioning as a garbage sorting facility (about 65,000 residents). This is what a district of Cairo looks like, dealing with the disposal of all municipal waste from a 32 million metropolis. Small trucks filled with plastic bags arrive here. The stench is overwhelming, with crawling insects, rats, mice, cats, and dogs. Families sit on mountains of garbage, sorting and specializing in plastics, bottles, cans, and rotten food.

Amidst all this, "normal life" operates with shops, food trucks, and restaurants. Children go to school, and hospitals are functioning. The business was reportedly founded by three brothers, who are currently among the wealthiest people in Egypt. They own several luxury hotels in Hurghada and manage their businesses remotely from there.

On the hillside, we encounter the largest Catholic church in the Middle East. The rock-hewn Monastery of St. Simon can accommodate 17,000 people. Its walls are adorned with numerous sculptures carved by our compatriot Mariusz Dybich, known here as "Mario."

The Pyramids of Giza

The most iconic view associated with Egypt is the pyramids in Giza. The tallest, dedicated to King Cheops, was built around 2560 BC. It stands 147 meters high, has a base side length of 230 meters, and consists of about 2.3 million stone blocks weighing between 2.5 and 15 tons. The land for construction was leveled to an accuracy of 2 cm, and the sides are aligned to the cardinal points with an accuracy of 4 angular minutes. The incredible precision of the builders serves as a model for contemporary engineers.

Visiting the inner burial chamber is possible for an additional fee (around 15 USD). Entrance tickets to the other pyramids are slightly cheaper, costing about 4 USD. Since we had planned to visit Saqqara, where you can enter a small pyramid for free, we did not take advantage of the opportunity to enter the pyramids in Giza. The experiences are similar and differ only in the scale of the structures.

A bit

The 30-year younger pyramid of Chephren was built around 2532 BC and is just slightly smaller. Fragments of the outer casing, which also covered the other pyramids, have been preserved at its peak. Originally, their surface was smooth, making it impossible to climb the stone blocks (which is currently prohibited and punishable by up to 3 years in prison). The road leading to the pyramid is guarded by the Sphinx - a lion with the head of King Chephren in a nemes headdress. This is the first monumental sculpture of Egyptian art carved from a stone block. It is 73 meters long and 20 meters high. The Sphinx's task was to observe the subjects pilgrimaging to the tomb and assess the offerings brought, which of course motivated them to make greater sacrifices. The Sphinx also guarded the entrance against potential robbers.

The last of the great pyramids - that of King Mykerinos is much smaller. It has a height of about 65 meters and a side length of 108 meters. Since sources do not specify the exact period of the king's reign, it is difficult to determine the construction time, but it is close to that of the other two structures. Around it, we have several much smaller tombs for royal mothers and wives.

Under the pyramids, you will find many tourist attractions, ranging from carriage rides to horseback and camel riding. Before you take part, make sure to confirm the price. Getting on a camel may cost 1 USD, but try getting off it by yourself. Without the owner's help, this is rather impossible and may cost you another 20 USD.

It is worth watching the evening light and sound show combined with a story about the history of Egypt. A regular ticket costs around 35 USD, and you can use headphones for a translation of the story into Polish.

Cairo

The original travel plan included an overnight train ride from Aswan to Cairo. It was changed at the last minute and we flew to Cairo instead. This gave us an extra day for sightseeing. The train, while somewhat of an attraction, is old and the travel comfort leaves much to be desired.

Shopping

Moving as an organized group limits the opportunities for shopping. We of course pass by shopping areas at every tourist attraction, but there is little time to think. Hotels have shopping centers where you can try on clothes at leisure, but prices are of course higher. There are also duty-free shops with alcohol and cigarettes, which are very hard to find in the cities.

As part of the trip, we visited an alabaster factory, a papyrus shop, and a perfumery. We pass a large souvenir shop at the museum in Cairo. In regular shops and factories, prices are fixed, but at tourist attractions, haggling is a must. Shops on the ship also allow for shopping - mainly clothes and jewelry (a T-shirt with a dedicated embroidered design costs about 20 USD, and dress prices start at 15 USD).

In liquor stores, Egyptian equivalents of Western drinks are available at prices around 10 USD for a 0.75-liter bottle. A can of local beer, available only in liquor stores, costs about 3 USD.

The construction of the temple began around 350 BC and continued during the Greek and Roman periods. It was the longest-functioning place of worship for Egyptian gods and was only closed by order of Emperor Justinian in the mid-6th century AD. Evidence of the site's use by early Christians is visible in the form of crosses carved into the columns. The first destructions also occurred at that time as attempts were made to remove the faces of the gods from the original reliefs.

The Temple of Isis is another monument that was relocated to a different place and saved. It was flooded by the Nile even before the construction of the dams, but the great dam would have led to total destruction. The island of Philae is submerged, with only fragments of the artificial caisson structure that surrounded the temple during its relocation protruding above the surface. Currently, all the surviving fragments stand on the island of Agilkia, which is a few hundred meters away. Small boats run to the island, and colorful hotels have been built along the shores.

During our stay in Aswan, we took a small boat trip to the Kicherera Botanical Garden. It is a true green island located on the Nile, transformed into gardens at the end of the 19th century. The island is very popular among locals as a weekend gathering place amidst the coolness of the trees. Young people try to participate in the trip on old windsurfing boards - they sing songs to earn a few dollars.

Aswan and Lake Nasser

The old dam in Aswan was built by the British at the end of the 19th century at the site of the first cataract, which is a natural water barrier blocking navigation on the Nile. It was raised twice because the original construction assumptions did not account for the amount of water accumulated during the rainy season. The dam is nearly 2 km long and 36 meters high. In the second half of the 20th century, the dam was equipped with water turbines and the first power plant with a capacity of 600 MW was commissioned.

Construction of the new dam began in 1960 under the rule of Gamal Nasser, who held authoritarian power after the "officers' revolution." The authorities sought to obtain funding for the investment from Western countries, but after Egypt recognized the establishment of the People's Republic of China, all refused to help. The situation was seized by the Soviet Union, which, in addition to financing the construction, provided equipment, materials, and engineering staff. Under the contract, the USSR received exclusive rights to supply Egyptian cotton for a period of 10 years. The monument of Egyptian-Soviet friendship still stands at the entrance to the dam.

The dam is 3600 meters long and 980 meters thick at its base with a height of 111 meters. The hydropower plant is equipped with 12 generators with a total capacity of 2.1 GW. Electricity, along with water, is one of the cheapest resources in Egypt. Lake Nasser is the largest artificial freshwater reservoir in the world. It is 500 km long, 200 km wide, and 100 m deep. In addition to the advantages of developing fishing and regulating the Nile's floods, the construction involved the displacement of over 100,000 Nubians and the destruction of many monuments in the flooded areas. The lack of regular Nile floods results in soil depletion in the river delta and poorer harvests.

Damage to the dam would flood all of Egypt within 3 days - it is therefore a strategic structure under constant military protection.

Abu Simbel

Abu Simbel is the southernmost temple we visited by bus after arriving in Aswan. It is located near the border with Sudan on the shores of Lake Nasser, in the ancient lands of Nubia.

Construction began around 1250 BC during the reign of Ramses II and lasted about 20 years. The temple was carved into the hillside on the west bank of the Nile and was dedicated to the gods Amun-Re and Ptah (art and craftsmanship). Four 20-meter tall statues of Ramses II guard the entrances. The interior of the first chamber is decorated with reliefs commemorating the king's victorious battle at Kadesh.

In the last chamber, there are statues of Amun-Re, Re-Horachte, Ramses II, and Ptah. Twice a year, the rising sun would shine through a 50-meter corridor and illuminate the king's image on his birthday, February 19, and on his coronation day, October 21. This demonstrates the ancient Egyptians' excellent knowledge of architecture and astronomy.

The temple was discovered in 1813 by the Swiss travelerJohann Ludwig Burckhardt (the same one who discovered Petra in Jordan). The construction of the great dam in Aswan and the formation of Lake Nasser threatened to flood the site and many other valuable monuments in Nubia. From 1964 to 1968, thanks to the efforts of UNESCO and the Egyptian government, the temple was moved 65 meters up to the neighboring hillside. The project, worth about 36 million USD, was directed by Polish archaeologist Kazimierz Michałowski from the Center for Mediterranean Archaeology at the University of Warsaw. A film documenting the process of relocating the site, which was precisely cut into small rock blocks, can be viewed at the local museum. To preserve the original composition of the excavation in the rock, a reinforced concrete cover was built over it, and an artificial hill was created.

The change in the temple's elevation caused a shift of one day in the sunlight illumination cycle of the statues in the last chamber, now occurring on February 20 and October 22. Tickets for these days sell out well in advance.

Right next to it is the rock-hewn Temple of Nefertari, dedicated to Ramesses II's wife. The statues on the façade are 10 meters high and depict both spouses. Interestingly, they are of equal size, placing Nefertari on par with her husband. This is the first time in Egyptian history that a separate temple of this magnitude has been dedicated to a king's wife.

Among the wall reliefs, we can find a depiction of a set of surgical tools and a detailed calendar dividing the months into days and seasons, highlighting the harvest.

In Kom Ombo, the original nilometer, which is about 5000 years old, has been preserved; it is an instrument that allows the determination of the water level in the Nile. Based on its readings, the priests were able to predict periods of drought and river floods, which influenced the determination of tax rates.

In the museum, we will find several mummified crocodiles, over 300 of which were discovered on the temple grounds. Just like the mummies of kings, the crocodiles were placed in tombs as incarnations of the god Sobek, along with supplies of food and everyday items.

Kom Ombo

Halfway between Edfu and Aswan, we arrive at the temple of Kom Ombo, which was also built during the reign of the Ptolemies. The structure is quite unusual as it consists of two parallel temples dedicated to different gods.

The southern half is dedicated to Sobek - the crocodile-headed god. The Egyptians believed that the more crocodiles there were in the Nile, the more successful the harvests would be. Sobek thus represented fertility and abundance. At the same time, having the nature of a crocodile, he was a god of sudden death but helped the deceased by restoring sight to their souls. The second northern mirrored half of the temple was dedicated to Horus. The division of the temples is already visible at the double entrance.

Edfu - the Temple of Horus

It is one of the best-preserved Egyptian temples. It was built between 237 and 57 BC during the rule of the Greek Ptolemaic dynasty.

The wall reliefs are less meticulously crafted - many figures, for instance, have two left hands. We managed to find the first scenes of a fast food bar and the installation of a portable WiFi transmitter.

The central sanctuary with the ark of Horus is likely a remnant of an earlier temple that stood on this site during the New Kingdom (Ramses I and Ramses II).

Like most temples, it was forgotten with the introduction of Christianity as the mandatory religion during Roman times. In 391 AD, the worship of the old Egyptian gods was prohibited.

For centuries, the temple was buried under the sands of the desert and the floods of the Nile to a height of over 12 meters. In 1798, a French expedition discovered only the tops of the highest pylons protruding from the ground and began archaeological work.

The architectural concept was used to construct Temple Works in Leeds, England, in 1840. The building housed a steam engine with a power of 240 horsepower driving the mills. The building still stands today as a Class I monument.

On the ship

All the places described above are the closest surroundings of Luxor. We are living on a moored ship, and the cruise has not yet started, with 200 kilometers to sail and a jumble of thoughts about the monuments we have already seen.

The ship, commonly referred to as the "Nile cruiser," is a four-star hotel with comfortable 2-3 person cabins (air conditioning, toilet with shower, television). The opening windows have Venetian mirrors, and from the outside, you can't see what is happening inside. The designs of the cruisers are standard and only differ in interior decor. Level zero is the reception, crew quarters, infirmary, and guest rooms. The central part features a spiral staircase. Level -1 has a restaurant for several dozen people and a kitchen.

Breakfast and dinner are served buffet-style, and it was the best food during the entire trip (I especially recommend the fish). With the "all inclusive" option, all alcoholic drinks are included, but it’s worth calculating. The surcharge is about 800 PLN per person, but it must cover all people in the cabin. So for a couple, you will pay 400 USD - we spent a total of 120 USD, so it was cheaper without this option.

Level +1 is for guest rooms and shops in the central part. Level +2 has guest rooms, a banquet hall with a bar, shops, and access to the upper deck. On the upper deck, you will find a small pool at the bow, as well as loungers, covered tables, and a bar.

Besides stops at the ports of Luxor, Edfu, and Aswan, the ship sails (also at night), but the engines are hardly heard. Time is mainly spent by the pool sipping drinks and admiring the surroundings, and the views are magnificent. Ladies frequently visit the shops and always find something worth buying.

In the evenings, events are organized in the banquet hall: belly dancing, Nubian night, whirling dervish dance. It’s a bit "touristy," but it’s worth spending time together and exchanging impressions after the morning sightseeing.

The ship is regularly visited by "pirates," meaning traders who attach themselves with motorboats and sell towels, scarves, clothing, and other goods over the side. They can cleverly toss goods through the window even to level +1. They assume the honesty of potential buyers, negotiate prices, and expect returns of goods in case of misunderstandings.

Karnak stands out among other temples due to its size, as construction was carried out by over 30 kings. The main hall covers an area of 5000 square meters, and its now-nonexistent roof rested on 134 columns arranged in 16 rows. The columns range in height from 10 to 21 meters and are richly decorated. The variation in column height allowed for the insertion of a wall with "louvered windows," which illuminated the interior.

In the further exposed area stand the obelisks of Thutmose II and his wife, Queen Hatshepsut. The obelisks were a form of connecting the king with the god Amun-Re, and of course, height played a significant role in the quality of this bond. King Thutmose II constructed 4 obelisks, each 23 meters tall (one has survived). His wife wanted to leave behind something larger, and her obelisk measures 30 meters (it is the second-largest Egyptian obelisk in the world). The queen planned to erect two obelisks, but the second one broke during carving, and its fallen fragments can be seen in Aswan.

In front of the sacred pond stands a statue of a great scarab. Walking around it to the left seven times will fulfill the wish we are currently thinking of. It is therefore very difficult to catch the moment when the area around the statue is empty.

Karnak

At the entrance to the temple in Karnak, a pocket knife was found on me at the security checkpoint. I didn't really want to part with it because it was a souvenir, so I started a discussion with the shift commander to keep it safe while I explored. The situation was a bit tense when suddenly our bodyguard from the bus appeared out of nowhere. He showed his documents, took the pocket knife, and said he would take care of it. I got it back on the way back and politely thanked him for his help - it was the first time I saw a smile on his face. Our guide advised me against trying to give money as a token of gratitude.

By the way, during the checks at the entrances, an important piece of information regarding the restrooms. They are available at all tourist attractions and are well-maintained. However, it's necessary to have some small change because the entry fee is 1/2 dollar. Usually, people go in pairs handing over a one-dollar bill at the entrance.

The construction of the temple complex in Karnak began around 2000 BC and continued until the time of Queen Hatshepsut. Only a portion dedicated to the god Amun-Re is accessible to visitors. The avenue of sphinxes with ram heads leads, as we remember, to the temple in Luxor. In the entrance courtyard, you can admire a model of the site and a reconstruction of the ritual ark in which the deities were transported.

The mortuary temple of Ramses III at Medinet Habu was originally connected to the royal palace and surrounded by a defensive wall made of mud brick. This has allowed its walls to remain in very good condition.

It was built around 1150 B.C., and the wall paintings still retain vibrant colors. While this is not surprising in tombs where daylight hasn't reached for centuries, the sunlight-exposed walls indicate a superb selection of paint ingredients.

The reliefs depicting the king's victories over the Libyans and "sea peoples" in defense of Lower Egypt cover more than 7,000 square meters. A maritime invasion around 1175 B.C. threatened the loss of the Nile delta but was halted thanks to the courage of Ramses III.

In the central part, there is a row of statues of the king in the characteristic mortuary pose of Osiris with crossed arms.

Deir el-Medina and Medinet Habou

Deir el-Medina - the Valley of the Workers is one of the few inhabited places on the western side of the Nile (in the world of the dead). The settlement functioned for about 500 years and was founded around 1500 BC. Continuous work on the tombs in the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens required a constant presence of skilled craftsmen. To shorten the travel time to the site, it was decided to establish a settlement in this unusual location. At its peak, there were over 70 houses here.

The valley community lived in complete isolation, and their work on the tombs was kept secret. In return, the state provided them with all the goods necessary for life, even servants to help with household chores. The settlement had a school, a local court, and a temple. Most of the workers and their wives could read. A temporary shortage of food supplies during the reign of Ramses III triggered a strike considered the first workers' strike in human history.

The workers, or rather highly skilled craftsmen and artists, were uniquely privileged to build their own tombs. To date, over 500 have been discovered, of which 53 are richly decorated. The tombs are much smaller than the royal tombs, yet the quality of the decorations is remarkably better, and the paints have retained beautiful, vibrant colors after more than 3000 years.

Ballooning

A balloon ride is an additional paid highlight of the trip ($120), but it's hard to resist this adventure even for those with a fear of heights. The basket can hold up to 32 people and has high sides, making it impossible to fall out. It is divided into four-person sections to evenly distribute the "ballast" according to passenger weight. The largest central section is designated for the pilot and spare gas tanks. Above this section is a burner that can tilt and direct the flame to different areas inside the balloon.

The balloon itself is the size of a tennis court hangar and is made from fireproof material. Dozens of balloons are laid out on a large landing field by the launch crews (the so-called catchers). The crew has a truck that brings the balloon, equipment with the basket, and gas tanks to the site. Deflated balloons lie on the ground tethered to the basket and truck. The flight control at the landing site checks the weather conditions every 15 minutes. A launch permit will only be granted if the wind direction is favorable. The balloon is essentially unsteerable except for altitude - it responds very sluggishly. The wind must blow towards an empty several-kilometer space to ensure a landing area.

Launches are possible from sunrise until 7:00 AM. After that, the air temperature rises enough that the heated balloon will no longer have lift. Wake-up is at 4:00 AM, and we head to the launch field. Fifteen-minute windows pass, but the wind is blowing in the wrong direction. We wait, time passes, and it gets tense. 6:45 - the last time window and permission is granted, so everyone rushes to the balloons. Heating of the lying forms begins, which slowly inflate and rise to a vertical position. "Ballast" takes its place in the basket, and empty starting tanks are replaced with new ones. The catchers release the ropes, and we take off.

Complete silence except for the hissing of gas and the roaring flame. In the air, dozens of balloons, some bumping against each other. They fly at different altitudes roughly in the same direction. The pilot, ranked as captain and wearing asbestos gloves, talks about the scenery below. Behind us, a truck with catchers follows along the backroads. After 30 minutes, we start looking for a landing spot, but below us are high-voltage lines, radio masts, farms, and surprised farmers. We wait for a piece of empty space, and finally, there it is.

At the captain's command, we take the landing position, crouching at the bottom of the basket with our backs to the direction of flight. This is to soften the impact with the ground and protect our noses from injury if the balloon drags the basket on the ground. The first catch attempt by the "catchers" fails, and we rise a few meters. The second attempt - the balloon drags the basket on the ground, but the catchers hold on. Phew, we finally managed to stop the beast, but the backward wind causes the balloon's remains to start covering us. The catchers must quickly pull it off us because the heated gas burners could ignite something. A few years earlier, there was a case where the crew burned after landing, covered by a descending balloon.

Commemorative photos and a personalized certificate of the flight help cool the emotions. It's time to return for breakfast.

Luxor - the ancient Thebes

Thebes was the capital of Upper Egypt and competed for primacy with Heliopolis (the capital of Lower Egypt) and Memphis. Along with neighboring Karnak, it was also the center of worship for the god Amun-Re. The city's greatest development began during the reign of King Montuhotep II in the Second Intermediate Period around 2000 BC. Montuhotep II reunified Egypt and chose Thebes as the seat of the kingdom's authorities.

The Temple of the Resurrection of the Kingdom in Luxor was built around 1400 BC and was not dedicated to any gods or kings. Coronation ceremonies took place there, and even Alexander the Great claimed to have been crowned in Thebes. Official sources contradict this, confirming that he did not venture further south than Memphis.

Originally, there were two obelisks in front of the temple, but the smaller one was transported to France and stands in Place de la Concorde in Paris. The French "returned the favor" by gifting Egypt a clock tower that never worked.

In the Middle Ages, the temple was partially buried and forgotten, and a city grew on the resulting hill. Many new buildings were constructed on it without realizing what lay hidden beneath the sand. Archaeological work, which began in the late 19th century, gradually revealed the temple, and the structures built on it were demolished. The only remnant built over the temple is a mosque that was not removed.

The temple of the god Amun-Re in Karnak, located 2 km away, is connected to the temple in Luxor by an avenue of sphinxes. During the annual Opet festival, a procession with a barque bearing the statue of the god Amun-Re, his wife Mut, and son Khons would pass along the avenue of sphinxes from Karnak to Luxor. Here, a symbolic ceremony of the god's marriage to the reigning king took place, after which the barque would sail back down the Nile to Karnak.

The Colossi of Memnon are remnants of the mortuary temple of King Amenhotep III, built around 1370 BC. The temple was completely destroyed due to an earthquake and subsequently by the floods of the Nile. Each of the statues weighs about 800 tons and stands nearly 18 meters tall. According to tradition, his mother and wife stand beside the king.

One of the statues emitted sounds at sunrise, as noted by ancient Greeks. Following the earthquake in 27 BC, its upper part collapsed and was reassembled. Misaligned pieces, chilled overnight, rubbed against each other as they warmed in the morning sun. The arrangement of the stones was improved in the transition between the 2nd and 3rd centuries, and since then the colossus has not produced any sounds.

Temple of Hatshepsut

Queen Hatshepsut is one of the four women who sat on the throne of Egypt. However, she ruled the longest and tried to behave like a man. That is why her tomb is located in the Valley of the Kings, rather than in the more southerly Valley of the Queens.

She was the wife of King Thutmose II, but during his 13-year reign, she held actual power in the state. After her husband's death, his successor was the underage Thutmose III, and Hatshepsut acted as regent on his behalf, only to declare herself queen after a few years. Her reign likely lasted from 1479 BC to 1458 BC.

To consolidate male power, she utilized the cult of Amun and his devoted priests in Karnak. Gradually, she adopted male attributes: the shendyt kilt, the uraeus, and the ceremonial false beard.

Her reign is credited with the development of trade relations and maintaining Egypt's dominance in Nubia, Palestine, and Syria, for which she organized five military expeditions. She left behind many magnificent structures (besides the temple named after her), including obelisks and fragments of the temple in Karnak.

Very few statues depicting the queen have survived. It is believed that they were deliberately destroyed after her death to erase the memory of her accomplishments. Her successors could not accept that a female king could do more for the country than her male predecessors.

Poles have contributed to the reconstruction and archaeological work at the temple. The mission of the University of Warsaw, which began in 1961, has been ongoing with interruptions to this day.

In November 1997, 62 people were killed at the entrance to the temple as a result of a terrorist attack. Since then, authorities have tightened security checks to protect tourists. An armed agent travels with you on every bus, overseeing the group. Buses only move along designated routes and stop at agreed locations. There are baggage control gates in front of all tourist sites. Remember not to carry any sharp or dangerous items (similarly to entering an airport). In the best case, you risk their confiscation.

Valley of the Kings

The Valley of the Kings is the burial site of Egyptian kings from the 18th to the 20th dynasty (1550 - 1070 BC). Unlike the pyramids in Giza, the tombs were carved into the rocks and were discovered relatively late. According to Egyptian tradition, the valley is located on the western bank of the Nile (the land of the dead) near Luxor. All inhabited settlements were on the eastern bank, except for a few, such as the Valley of the Workers. During this period, Luxor - the ancient Thebes, was the capital of the kingdom.

The location was chosen as a necropolis not by chance due to its characteristic hill resembling a pyramid. There are 15 tombs open for visitation, with the most interest focused on the tombs located near the entrance: Tutankhamun, Seti, Ramses I, and Ramses V. The entrance to Tutankhamun's tomb requires an additional fee of 11 USD.

Tutankhamun's tomb was discovered as late as 1922 by the English archaeologist Howard Carter , who spent 7 years on the search. As the only tomb found so far, it had not been previously robbed, and all treasures over 3000 years old have been preserved (mostly now displayed in British museums). To this day, the mummy of the king, who was killed at around 18 years of age, is kept inside. The mysteries of his death have not yet been explained, but it is known that he was struck in the back of the head and died from skull damage. This could have been the work of priests who held power in his name when he was still a child.

The entrances to the tombs are mostly adapted for tourists of all ages. The only danger is the temperatures reaching up to 45 degrees in summer. Inside, it is stuffy and unfortunately not much cooler. As in every tourist spot, there is a "shopping zone" where it is very hard to ignore the vendors. If you don't plan to shop, you must avoid them in silence - any interest in the displayed goods will compel you to spend money. Try not to buy anything from children. If they start bringing money home from trading, their parents will stop sending them to school. It's a bit cruel, but this way they have time for a modest education.

The meticulousness of the ancient builders in rendering details on the walls of the burial chambers is astonishing. The hieroglyphs and drawings have retained their colors and tell the story of the rulers as if they were carved just a few years ago. These first encounters with ancient culture leave unforgettable impressions.

History and mythology

Since the main goal of the trip was to see the historic temples and tombs, I must write a few sentences about the history of Egypt. In ancient times, the country consisted only of the Nile Valley, while the surrounding deserts were independent entities not economically or culturally connected. Even today, the 111 million population inhabits only 5% of the country’s area concentrated along the Nile and on the Mediterranean and Red Sea coasts.

Originally, Lower Egypt (the Nile delta) and Upper Egypt (the Nile up to the first cataract) were separate kingdoms with different symbols. The king of Lower Egypt wore a crown shaped like a chair in red, with the plant motif being papyrus and the animal motif an attacking cobra. The king of Upper Egypt wore a crown shaped like a conical white cap, with the plant motif being the lotus flower and the animal motif a female vulture.

Around 3000 BC, King Menes (Meni - he who consolidates) unified the state, and from that moment, the royal crown became a combination of the white and red crowns.

The modern discovery of Egypt's history began with its conquest by Napoleon's forces at the end of the 18th century. Many destructions occurred during this time, as holes were made in the walls of temples to tie up horses or etch inscriptions on the walls in a ‘I was here’ style. The greatest discovery of Napoleon’s expedition turned out to be the 'Rosetta Stone,' on which the same text was inscribed using hieroglyphs, ancient Greek, and demotic script, which was used in daily life in ancient Egypt. This allowed the French scholar Jean Francois Champollion to decipher the hieroglyphs, comparing his assumptions with the inscriptions on other finds. Another distinguished scientist was the Englishman William Flinders Petrie. He conducted excavations at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. He introduced new archaeological standards by conducting work very carefully, comparable to current methods. The exploratory research of the French and English resulted in the appropriation of many artifacts, which we can now see in their museums (see the Rosetta Stone).

Understanding the hieroglyphic inscriptions from tombs and temples allowed for the reconstruction of many facts from ancient Egyptian history and the classification of its history into old, middle, and new kingdoms, as well as intermediate periods and subsequent dynasties of kings. By the way, as we were pointed out - the word 'pharaoh' is used incorrectly by us as it does not denote a person but rather a place.

The greatest flourishing of the country begins in the Old Kingdom during the reign of the III and IV dynasties (2657–2590 BC). At that time, the largest pyramids were constructed (the step pyramid of King Djoser in Saqqara), followed by those of Cheops, Chephren, and Mykerinos in Giza.

The reign of the Egyptian kings ends with the invasion of the Greeks when in 332 BC Alexander the Great becomes king of Egypt. After Alexander's death in 323 BC, the Greek commander Ptolemy I takes power, starting 300 years of rule by the Ptolemaic dynasty.

In 30 BC, Egypt comes under Roman rule, and a period of plundering its most valuable artifacts begins. In Rome alone there are 8 ancient obelisks taken from Egypt.

According to mythology from the holy city of Heliopolis, the world was created by the sun, which separated itself from the untamed element Nun symbolising the Nile (chaos). The sun (Atum) - a perfect being was worshipped in the forms of Amon-Re and depicted as a scarab rolling a ball of dung. Atum gave life to Shu (dryness) and Tefnut (moisture), and from them were born Nut and Geb (Sky and Earth). These last ones had four children: Isis, Osiris, Nephthys, and Set. With their birth, the time of humans also began. Osiris, the first king of Egypt, was treacherously murdered by Set, and his body was dismembered. Isis reassembled her husband’s body with the help of her sister Nephthys. In embalming the corpse, the son born out of wedlock to Osiris and Nephthys, Anubis, assisted, and sometime later, Isis gave birth to the posthumous child Horus. The latter fought a victorious battle against Set for the throne of Egypt, which Set had managed to appropriate. Osiris, by the verdict of the divine court, became the lord of the underworld and is depicted with crossed arms. Figures with the left leg extended forward represent the world of the living.

Travel plan

- arrival in Hurghada and a day of rest

- transfer to Luxor and accommodation on a ship

- cruise on the Nile from Luxor to Aswan (5 nights)

- one-day trip to Abu Simbel

- flight from Aswan to Cairo (4 nights in Cairo)

- one-day trip to Alexandria

- transfer to Hurghada and rest at the hotel (4 nights)

- one-day diving trip.

Hurghada

One of the main tourist centers on the Red Sea consisting of dozens of hotels stretching for miles along the shore. It is an enclave for diving and snorkeling enthusiasts (the second after Marsa Alam) and for families with small children. Each hotel has a row of shops, swimming pools, slides, and bars. It constitutes a closed town that we do not leave during our stay as there is not much to go to. On average, it accommodates up to 1500 guests, and at 6 AM, you need to reserve a spot by the pool (which opens at 8 AM). By 8:15, there are no free sunbeds or towels left. The hustle and bustle during meals do not provide relaxation. However, it is hard not to appreciate the efforts of the staff trying to provide entertainment for all age groups as well as very good food and drinks. On-site, you can book a diving course, quad tours in the desert, and one-day trips to Cairo or Luxor. It is worth purchasing an "all-inclusive" package that ensures constant access to bars with drinks included in the price of the stay. Once a week, you can order a meal at one of the small restaurants (usually Italian, Moroccan, or Asian cuisine) and eat in a calm, quiet atmosphere.

Egypt - some practical information

This is our first trip with a travel agency. Navigating Egypt is very difficult for individual tourists, and besides the required permits and formalities, a precise GPS locator will be necessary :-). Try booking an apartment in Cairo through Booking.com. The agglomeration of about 32 million inhabitants has no addresses or street names. Without the owner's help, you probably won't find your apartment on your own.

We took advantage of the Rainbow Tour offer, choosing an extended 14-day program with a cruise on the Nile. We added all possible optional excursions (except for the visit to the "Nubian Village").

The official currency is the Egyptian pound EGP, but you can pay everywhere in Euros or US dollars. A passport and a tourist visa are required (visa can be bought at the airport). It allows for a single crossing of the border and is valid for 30 days. Cost - 25 USD.

Using a camera has been significantly eased since August 2022. Previously, it required additional permits, and taking photos on the street was prohibited (risking confiscation of equipment). Currently, you can take photos almost everywhere, keeping the following rules in mind:

- do not take photos of military objects and uniformed services

- do not take photos of children or with children

- if you want to take a photo of an adult, ask for permission and give a tip

- do not take photos of neglected places that may indicate poverty

- do not hand over your equipment to have a photo taken of you, especially in Cairo.

Traveling in a group relieves us of organizational responsibilities and dealing with police checks on the roads and at tourist attractions. On the other hand, we probably won’t see the "real" street life and will only visit selected shops. A lot also depends on the tour guide, but more on that later.

Plan in advance which additional options you want to take advantage of and bring an appropriate amount of cash in Euros or USD plus any reserve for souvenir purchases. Access to ATMs is limited, and you may not have the opportunity to withdraw cash. One-dollar bills (or 1 Euro) are also essential for tips, which are expected everywhere.

At the airport, it's worth buying a local operator's phone card with internet access. We used an Orange card, which was sufficient for 14 days, and in terms of coverage, it worked practically everywhere, and the data transfer was faster than through hotel Wi-Fi. The cost of the card was about 18 USD with a 40 GB package.