Our recommendations

- visit to the Christiansborg palace tower

- changing of the guard at Amalienborg palace

- walk to the Kastellet fortress

- Nyboder district

- Rosenborg castle

- entrance to the Round Tower

- visit to the free town of Christiania

What is worth eating?

- boiled cod in mustard sauce

- roasted duck with apples

- frikadeller, or meatballs made from minced meat with potatoes and pickled cucumber

- Smørrebrød sandwiches richly filled with toppings

- herring in various versions

- biksemad, a stewed dish made from leftover dinner: potatoes, meat, onions topped with a fried egg

- cheeses

- beer

The modern, glass building of the opera, constructed in 2005, somewhat contrasts with the old port architecture. The building has 14 floors, of which 5 are underground. It contains about 1000 rooms, but the main opera hall has only 1500 seats to preserve the acoustics.

The naval officer school, sailing school, and polytechnic still operate in the port of Holmen.

We concluded our tour at the food truck center "Reffen," where everyone can find something interesting to eat.

There is an opinion that the authorities deliberately tolerate the situation in order to control the dealers and pacify this phenomenon in other parts of the capital. During the day, the streets are mainly populated by tourists and locals looking to buy "goods". Generally, the place is safe if we adhere to the existing rules.

Heading towards the opera and the Holmen district, we pass through numerous canals that serve as the equivalent of streets here. You can also encounter very unique structures of floating houses.

On the way back, we passed through Kongens Nytorv square, passing by the D'Angleterre hotel, which has hosted the greatest figures of the 20th century, from kings and presidents (Juan Carlos, Bill Clinton) to music stars (Madonna, Michael Jackson, U2, AC/DC). The first department store Hennes & Mauritz, opened in 1912, gave rise to the well-known H&M brand, also present in Poland. On the narrow street Niels Hemmingses Gade, we will see the old buildings of Copenhagen.

Crossing through Hajbro Plads towards the bridge, we will reach the waterfront separating Castle Island from the mainland. At the edge of the square stands an equestrian statue of the city’s founder, Bishop Absalon. Walking along the coast towards the stock exchange, we will arrive at Nyhavn (New Harbour).

The harbor canal was dug in the 17th century by Swedish prisoners of war. For a long time, it was a typical port district thriving on taverns, prostitution, and trade. With the increase in the tonnage of ships, it became less useful and began to decline. Revitalization in the 1960s opened it up to tourists. Here we find the best restaurants and souvenir shops. It is popularly referred to as "the longest bar in Scandinavia." Part of the canal is still used by yachts and small tour boats. At the end of the canal, six historic ships from the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries belonging to the National Museum are moored.

After passing the church, we enter the next square, Amagertorv, named after the island of Amager. Its inhabitants came to medieval Copenhagen for trade purposes. Jousting tournaments were also held here. Right next to one of the oldest buildings from 1616 stands a stork fountain, funded at the end of the 19th century as a gift for the royal couple.

The development of the New Market is closed by the building of the Palace of Justice, constructed during the era of the Napoleonic Wars. As with similar structures in other cities, the court is connected to the prison by a gate bridge spanning the street. Continuing our walk along the promenade, we will reach St. Spirit's Church, built in the 13th century. In the late 14th century, a hospital was added to it. This is one of the few buildings that survived the fire in 1795. In the wave of the Reformation, the hospital was handed over to the city, and plans were made to demolish the monastery building. Fortunately, it survived and is the oldest preserved Gothic structure in Copenhagen. It houses a cultural center. Among the preserved interior objects, it is worth noting the organ from 1879, equipped with 5,000 pipes divided into 75 voices.

The great fire in 1795 left no older buildings in this part of the city. The exception is the Caritas fountain from 1610.

From Rådhuspladsen, we enter Strøget - one of the first pedestrian streets in Europe. It was closed to vehicular traffic in November 1962. Initially, the project sparked significant controversy and opposition from residents. Ultimately, however, it achieved immense success. During the summer months, the street sees about 250,000 visitors daily, spending time in cafes, shops, and restaurants. The series of streets leads to the connected squares of Gammeltorv (Old Market) and Nytorv (New Market), encompassing an area of about 10 hectares.

The second characteristic building is the Palace Hotel, constructed in 1910 on the site of 11 tenement houses. The first owner was a master butcher who changed his interests and became a hotelier.

In the Town Hall Square, we can also find 3 monuments. The first is the "Dragon Fountain," which was renovated in 1924, with a bull killing a dragon placed at its center. Next to the town hall stands a modern statue of Hans Christian Andersen looking towards Tivoli Park. The last one is a monument of two Vikings blowing into horns. Legend has it that they will play when a maiden passes beneath the monument.

This is a must-see, namely "Free City of Christiania". As can be seen above, Poles also frequent this place. The district was established in 1971 on the site of former abandoned military barracks as an enclave for anarchist communities. It operates under its own rules and has signed agreements with the city for land lease and some municipal services. Additionally, Danish rules of coexistence do not apply here, only an internal code of conduct. Residents of the commune set up their own kindergartens and schools, and they also independently build new houses. It is estimated that the current population is around 1,000 people. Upon entering the territory of Christiania, we must adhere to the code of conduct posted at the entrances. It is forbidden to use cars, commit thefts, carry weapons or wear bulletproof vests, and to use hard drugs. There is a total ban on recording, taking photos, and running. On the main street, Pusher Street, marijuana and hashish are traded. The vendors' tables are covered with camouflage nets, and they often wear balaclavas. A typical squat is about 50 square meters and is larger than the average-sized apartment in Copenhagen.

In addition to its monuments, the Latin Quarter is famous for its numerous cafes, bookstores, and antique shops, where student life thrives. At the music bookstore, I managed to expand my vinyl collection. During my travels, I found no cheaper offer anywhere. When purchasing 10 pieces, the price per record was 1 USD.

Day four

Due to the evening flight back to Poland and the falling rain, we planned a short route through the Christanshavn district and Kolmen. This chain of islets intersected by canals and bastion fortifications turned into a trading port in the mid-17th century. It was an initiative of King Christian IV, who allowed the district to be named after him.

The most famous building is the Church of Our Saviour, with its distinctive tower rising 82 meters and exterior spiral stairs. The construction of the church was completed in 1695, but the tower was not opened until 1752. It features a carillon that plays melodies on the hour. Admission to the church is free, but it cannot be visited during services. Access to the tower costs 10 USD.

On the way back through the Latin Quarter, we must visit the Rundetaarn (Round Tower). It was built in 1642, and at its top (height of 35 meters), an astronomical observatory was established. It was used by scholars from the neighboring university until 1861. The need to transport heavy astronomical instruments led the builders to replace traditional stairs with a wide ramp encircling the tower's core 7.5 times. The ramp is 209 meters long, and during our ascent, we can enter the attic of the adjacent Church of the Holy Trinity at mid-height. At the very top, there is a gallery with a magnificent view of the city. The wrought-iron railing securing the gallery dates back to 1643. The entrance ticket costs 8 USD.

It is directly adjacent to the gardens and the Rosenborg Castle, built in 1624 as a royal summer residence. It was regularly used until 1710. In later years, the ruling family only stayed there twice, treating the castle as a backup shelter. Since 1883, the castle has been state-owned and houses a museum dedicated to the reigning dynasties. The entrance fee is 20 USD.

The botanical garden located in the city center is a great place for a short break. Admission is free except for entry to the palm house and museum.

The history of the Nyboder district (New Houses) dates back to the mid-17th century. King Christian IV began the construction of a row of houses for the crews of the growing Danish navy. Initially, each family received an apartment of 40 square meters, providing very comfortable living conditions. Over time, the houses began to be divided in half. The distinctive yellow color of the facade is known in Denmark as "Nyboder yellow."

The Gefion Fountain from 1908 depicts oxen pulling a plow ridden by the Nordic god. It was also funded by the Carlsberg breweries.

The 19th-century St. Alban's Church is the oldest Anglican church in Denmark. The tower features 15 tubular bells connected to an instrument similar to a carillon.

On the opposite bank of the canal, you can see the Naval Museum located in the Nyholm naval base. With a ticket price of about 25 USD, we explore the anchored vessels (including a submarine) along with part of the base where an 18th-century mast crane stands.

Walking along the shore towards the city, we will reach the symbol of Copenhagen and Denmark - the "Little Mermaid." This small statue, standing just over 1 meter tall, was funded by the son of the founder of the Carlsberg brewery in 1913. It attracts crowds of tourists despite being listed by prestigious guides as one of the most overrated tourist attractions.

We leave the fortress by the second bridge and head towards the coast. At the entrance to the port, the Trekroner fort, built in 1787 on an artificial island, is visible. It was created after the sinking of three old ships in this spot, one of which was named Trekroner. Currently, the island and fort are open for free visits, but you need to use the services of one of the carriers https://www.trekronerfort.dk/samarbejdspartnere. The cost of a round trip usually depends on the time of day and ranges from 25 to 35 USD.

This is the oldest European fortress still in continuous use and also a public park frequently visited by locals. Most of the buildings are original structures renovated at the end of the 20th century. The windmill from 1847 was used until 1908, as the fortress had its own bakery. Five bastions and the defensive walls are open for free visits. In front of the bridge leading to the fortress stands a statue dedicated to the Danes who fought alongside the Allies during World War II.

Heading towards the Kastellet fortress, we pass the Church of Alexander Nevsky with its distinctive golden domes. The building was erected in 1881 at the request of Maria Feodorovna Romanova. She was a Danish princess who became the wife of the Tsar of Russia - Alexander III. After the wedding, as Empress, she converted to Orthodoxy and changed her names. It is said that she tried to soften the Tsar's policy towards the Poles.

The Kastellet fortress was built in the mid-17th century and served its defensive purposes until the mid-19th century.

The Marble Church is modeled after the Roman Basilica of St. Peter. Supported by 12 columns, the dome rises to a height of 31 meters and is the largest in Scandinavia. Construction of the church began in 1749, but due to a lack of funds, it was repeatedly interrupted. The idea of using exclusively Norwegian marble was also abandoned and replaced with limestone. The construction was only completed in 1894 with the help of industrialist Carl Tietgen. Entry to the church and the dome is free.

Day three

We began at the royal residence - the Amalienborg Palace for the ceremonial changing of the guard at noon. To be precise, around the octagonal square are four palaces built by noble families in the mid-18th century. They were intended to be the foundation of a new modern district modeled after Paris. After the fire on Slotsholmen in 1794, they were purchased by the royal family. In the center of the square stands an equestrian statue of Frederick V. The Amalienborg Museum occupies the palace of Christian VIII, located to the left when entering the square from the Marble Church. The original interiors of the royal residence have been recreated there. The price for a regular ticket is 18 USD.

On the "dessert" remains the stock exchange building, one of the most beautiful and characteristic structures of the old town. Construction began in 1620 and lasted almost 20 years. The architecture was greatly influenced by King Christian IV himself, who designed the dormer windows and the "dragon spire" above the centrally located tower. Four dragons are entwined with their tails and dig their claws into the edges of the roof.

In the 17th century, the ground floor and the first floor were occupied by market stalls, and the royal family owned the building and profited from it. Ultimately, in 1857, the property was sold to the merchants' guild. The sales agreement stipulated that the new owner had no rights to any architectural changes without the king's consent. Thus, it is the first building in Denmark to be under "conservation protection."

Currently, it houses the Danish Chamber of Commerce and for this reason is not open for public visits.

Unfortunately, in April 2024, a fire broke out in the central part of the building. The "dragon tower" collapsed along with the facade and one wing. The building was under renovation - roofing work was ongoing, but the cause of the fire has not yet been determined. For Denmark, this is a national tragedy comparable to the fire of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. It is unknown whether the Chamber of Commerce will decide to rebuild the building and whether there will be financial resources for it.

The photo next to this text showing the aftermath of the fire is not my work and comes from the Internet.

In front of the palace, there is a large empty square covered with gravel and surrounded by a complex of low buildings. This is the so-called "equestrian complex" with stables. The square was used for horseback rides and official ceremonies, and in front of the palace entrance stands an equestrian statue of Christian IX. Part of the stables houses a carriage museum, which we visit as part of a previously purchased ticket to the "royal" section.

From the tower, to the south, the stock exchange building and the spiral tower of the Church of the Savior in the Christianshavn district are visible.

To the northeast, below is the Church of Holmen, while to the north, the tower of the Church of the Holy Spirit looms, which we passed the day before. The panorama is completed by the town hall tower on the western side.

Christiansborg, the royal palace, has been located on Slotsholmen since 1167. Over the centuries, it has been rebuilt and destroyed by fires numerous times. After another fire in 1794, the royal family moved to Amalienborg Palace.

The new palace was built between 1803 and 1828 as a royal residence, but it was only inhabited by Frederick VII from 1852 to 1863, after which it became the seat of the Danish parliament. Unfortunately, like the previous building, it burned down in 1884.

The palace we see today was completed in 1928. Despite some rooms being designated for royal apartments and the throne room, the monarchs still use the residence at Amalienborg. All levels of state power have settled here.

Visiting the "royal" section costs about 27 USD. The main attractions include a visit to the palace tower, which stands 106 meters tall. Admission is free, and we can use the elevator, but only to the second level, from where we continue by stairs. Along the way, we visit a secret room that had been bricked up for years. It contains models and mock-ups of palace elements created for its construction. The view from the tower is incredible - it encompasses the entire old town and neighboring districts, including the bridge over the Sound. The first level houses the dining area.

Visiting the Danish parliament is also free, but it is only conducted with a guide, and you must register in advance through the website https://www.thedanishparliament.dk/en/visit.

The royal favorite and advisor Peder Griffenfeld was falsely accused by his enemies of treason and spent the rest of his life in prison. As we walk through the library gardens towards the castle, we come across his monument.

Lying on the loungers in front of the Black Diamond, we have a beautiful view of the islets in the Christianshavn district connected by another architectural marvel, the "Circle Bridge." Opened on the day of our visit (August 22, 2015), this pedestrian and bicycle bridge consists of five circular decks with masts and rigging reminiscent of a sailing ship. Three of the decks are movable and open the way for yachts passing through the canals.

Heading to the back of the library, we find the buildings of the royal brewery, which served its purpose from 1616 to 1767 and was ravaged by fires several times. Next to it is the armory built in the early 17th century. It currently houses a weapons museum (War Museum) with over 8,000 exhibits. The ticket price is about 13 USD.

Day two

We spent the entire day on Castle Island, starting with a visit to the royal library opened to the public in 1793. It is a unique architectural combination of two buildings. The old building from 1906 has been integrated with the glass structure of the "Black Diamond," which has stood on the canal waterfront since 1999. In addition to its primary function of providing access to over 21 million volumes, the new section includes a bookstore, restaurants, cafes, a concert hall, exhibition space, and a photographic museum.

Day one

Rådhuspladsen opens the way to the old town and borders Tivoli Park. This is known as point zero for Denmark, from which distances to all towns are measured. The town hall was opened for use in 1904, and its construction took 12 years. Its size is not much different from royal palaces. The town hall tower, standing nearly 107 meters tall, is the tallest building in the city. Above the front entrance is a sculpture depicting the founder of the city - Bishop Absalon, and below it is a balcony from which the queen, invited stars of sports, entertainment, and representatives of art and science appear. Visiting the town hall is free, but access to the tower is only possible with a guide - the ticket costs about 10 USD.

During the guided tour, we can also see the "World Clock" built by the astronomer and watchmaker Jens Olsen. The creator passed away in 1945 and did not live to see his creation operational in 1955. The clock has 18 dials and 12 mechanisms. It indicates the time in all time zones, the position of the sun and stars, the upcoming days of the year for the next 570 years in both the Julian and Gregorian calendars, as well as the dates of astronomical events.

Denmark - a bit of history and practical information

The capital of Denmark is just a short distance away. A flight from Warsaw takes about 1.5 hours. One could consider driving, but in that case, it's best to take a ferry from Rostock in Germany, making it a 12-hour journey.

We travel without a visa (just an ID card is enough) and pay in Danish crowns (1 crown = 0.6 PLN).

From the airport to the city center, we can take an unmanned metro - it was the first autonomous vehicle I had the chance to ride. Automatic ticket machines can be found at every station. A similar system operates at Luton Airport near London, but it has a significantly shorter route.

In Copenhagen, we can move around using city bikes, which does not mean it is the cheapest form of transport. The price of a bus ticket from where we stayed to the Town Hall Square was similar.

The first bike lane was created here in 1892 as a result of a conflict between cyclists and horseback riders. So it's no surprise that today 340 km of roadways are equipped with two-way bike lanes, in addition to 110 km of two-way "green" routes leading through parks and 300 km of bike highways connecting the suburbs to the city center. Together, this amounts to about 750 km of two-way bike paths. About 150,000 residents use them daily. In winter, they are regularly cleared of snow. Bicycle lights are mandatory, and lacking lights can result in a hefty fine.

Now for residents of large cities in Poland, this is no longer so shocking, but in 2015, we were quite impressed. You have to be very careful when crossing the street because the bike paths separate sidewalks from the roadway, and we are used to waiting at the edge for the traffic lights to change.

Electric city bikes were equipped with a computer and navigation, making it easy to reach the planned destination. It was necessary to install an app on the phone and register with the service by providing a credit card. The bikes had an electric lock on the rear wheel that could be locked from the computer panel and secured with a personal PIN code. You could leave the bike for a moment in front of a store to do some shopping. You must to remember about the battery's energy reserve because a bike without power cannot be unlocked. Since it weighs over 30 kg, carrying it to the station to settle the rental can be very difficult alone. Another important thing is to note the neighborhod where we live - street names can repeat, and getting back home can be challenging. The last topic is the technical inspection of the bike before taking it out of the station (including adjusting the seat height).

The first historical mentions of the Kingdom of Denmark date back to the 10th century in connection with the adoption of Christianity. By the end of the 13th century, the country had become a maritime power in the Baltic Sea area and seized England, Norway, parts of Sweden, as well as Estonia and Western Pomerania. Interestingly, Estonia was sold in 1346 to the Teutonic Order for 19,000 marks. This allowed for the expansion of the army.

In 1536, Denmark and Norway separated from the Catholic Church and converted to Lutheranism. Participation in the Thirty Years' War against the Catholic Habsburgs devastated the country without yielding any gains. Over the following years, territories acquired over centuries were gradually lost, culminating in the 1814 Vienna Congress which ceded Norway. In the mid-19th century, local conflicts with Prussia over Schleswig-Holstein still persisted, ending with a referendum in 1920. Only a small northern part of both duchies was annexed to Denmark.

We spent 4 days in Copenhagen and stayed quite far from the historical center, so we started each morning with a bike ride. I will try to describe our sightseeing routes below, and it won't be easy because GPS locators on phones did not work as they do today, and individual photos are not labeled.

Copenhagen

August 2015