Our recommendations

- Grand Place (the main square in Brussels)

- the streets of the "holy island" and local restaurants

- the urinating girl and the urinating dog

- Bruges

- visit to a microbrewery

- Comic Museum

What is worth eating?

- "Belgian" fries (like pizza in Italy)

- beer (La Chouffe, Kriek, Duvel, Tripel Karmeliet, Rochefort, Chimay)

- Moules et frites (mussels with fries)

- Lapin à la Gueuze (rabbit stewed in beer)

- Carbonnade (beef stew in beer)

- grilled fish and seafood

- pralines and other chocolate products

We took a short break by the Anspach fountain. It is located in the park that stretches along the Senne River on the grounds of the old port basins. There used to be a fish market here. Mayor Anspach initiated the regulation and partial development of the river, which significantly reduced the spread of dangerous diseases at the end of the 19th century. It is worth visiting this place after dark when it is beautifully illuminated.

We walked through the Royal Square towards the Belgian parliament, and we ended the day in the European district by a fragment of the Berlin Wall.

In 1891, he launched his first biscuit, Pacha Delacre. Today, Delacre is one of the largest biscuit manufacturers in Europe and remains privately owned.

The neighboring building "Old England," designed by the same architect Paul Saintenoy in 1898 as a department store, heralded new technologies in construction. It now houses a museum of instruments with a collection of about 2,300 exhibits. The museum's electronic database contains information on 65,000 instruments from around the world. Admission costs 15 Euros.

His story is worth recounting. In 1870, he introduced chocolate as a medicinal remedy, which was met with great appreciation from patients. The success was so significant that he opened a chocolate shop next to the pharmacy, and in 1879 he became the supplier of chocolate to the royal court.

The garden walkway ends at Albertina Square with a towering statue of King Albert I on horseback.

Walking up to Royal Square along Coudenberg Avenue, we pass two architecturally interesting buildings. The first is the Pharmacie Delacre, built in 1900 - a pharmacy and laboratory of pharmacist Charles Delacre.

We can enter the garden passage on the Hill of Arts (Mont des Arts) through the gate with the famous clock, which is actually another carillon built in 1964. The 24 bells play melodies characteristic of different regions of Belgium. The figures in the niches are related to the history and folklore of the country: a soldier, a worker, a drummer, as well as historical figures like the painter Paul Rubens. It's worth stopping under the clock at the exact hour to listen to it play.

We took a beer break in the Saint Gery exhibition halls, which were built in the 19th century. They now serve as a space for temporary exhibitions and events.

Zinneke Pis is the last of the pissing statues in Brussels, installed in 1998. Zinneke simply means "little dog."

The Church of the Poor Clares, built in 1665, was converted into an ammunition depot during the French Revolution. It regained its sacred function only in 1806.

Leaving the areas surrounding the oldest part of Brussels, we headed towards the "upper town." The division into the lower (inhabited by ordinary citizens) and upper (royal) town already existed in the 19th century. King Leopold II made efforts to give splendor to the representative part.

On the way, we will pass by the historic stock exchange building, the Saint Gery market hall, a urinating dog, and the church of Notre-Dame des Riches. The stock exchange (Bourse) has long ceased to fulfill its role. The building now houses restaurants, conference halls, and a museum of Belgian beer history - I somewhat regret that we didn't have time to visit it.

The next church of St. Catherine, built in the mid-19th century, was inspired by the temples in Paris. The earlier 15th-century building was demolished, leaving only the belfry tower. Meanwhile, the Tour Noire (Black Tower) is a fragment of the defensive walls from the 13th century, which has survived only because it is privately owned. Unfortunately, the tower, surrounded by apartment buildings, does not present itself very impressively.

The church of St. John the Baptist, built in 1657, was restored after a fire in 2000. It features distinctive red doors.

And so we arrive at the Royal Flemish Theatre, with its astonishing architecture reminiscent of a pagoda. In times when Brussels could boast a trading port where hay for animal husbandry was traded in place of the theatre. The city authorities built a structure at the end of the 18th century intended for merchants and the storage of goods, which later housed an arsenal. In 1883, the building was handed over to a theatre troupe. Fire safety regulations required the addition of steel balconies to facilitate the evacuation of the audience, hence the rather unusual appearance of the building.

The Notre-Dame du Finistere Church was built in the 17th century in a secluded part of the city (Finistere means the end of the earth). It is now the busiest area of Brussels.

The next point on our map is the Comic Museum. The well-known series about Tintin and his dog Snowy won the hearts of Belgians in the 1920s. The author was Brussels native Georges Remi, known by the pen name Herge. Signs of comics can also be seen in the form of murals on many buildings in the city.

The 12-ton statue of Godfrey of Bouillon was made in 1848 in France. Godfrey was one of the leaders of the First Crusade and, after the capture of Jerusalem, took the title of "Defender of the Holy Sepulchre." After Belgium gained independence, Godfrey was recognized as a national hero.

Opposite the tranquil Petit Sablon park, we pass the church of Notre Dame des Victoires (Our Lady of Victories), built in the 15th century in the distinctive Brabant Gothic style. The founder was the guild of crossbowmen - five internal naves are dedicated to military guilds. Its beautiful architecture is worth viewing from the Sablon Square side.

In Petit Sablon park, you can relax from the bustle of the main artery under the monument to the princes Egmont and Horn, who were executed here for resisting the hegemony of the Spanish Habsburgs.

Since the Palace of Justice was "adorned" with scaffolding, we turned through Sablon Square towards the statue of Madam Chapeau. This is a fictional character appearing in a Belgian comedy from 1938. The aging lady is traditionally played by a transvestite actor. Here we concluded our journey through Brussels.

The Royal Palace is open for free visits from July 21 to early September from 10:30 AM to 5:00 PM, except on Mondays. The most impressive part for us was the mirror room, whose ceilings were decorated in 2002 by the artist Jan Fabre. Together with a group of 30 assistants, they used chitinous coatings from the wings of the Green Thai Jewel beetle. A total of 1.4 million specimens were collected to cover the ceilings.

In 1924, the funeral of the Italian composer Giacomo Puccini took place in the church, who died of a heart attack while staying in Brussels.

In the Brussels park, almost everyone was staring at their smartphone screens. They were not browsing social media or news - everyone was playing Pokémon. The game had just been released and became a hit for several years.

The Church of St. Mary stands at the fork of the avenue at Queen's Square and is surrounded by tram tracks. Its construction lasted from 1845 to 1888, and due to changes of architects, it is a mixture of several styles. It is associated with the first queen of the Belgians - Louise Marie. Over the years, it fell into ruin and in 1965 was deemed at risk of collapse. Only by decree in 1976 was it possible to save and restore it.

The botanical garden adjacent to the Congress Square, with its main greenhouse building, is a remnant of the gardens that were created at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. Due to the city's expansion, "Le Botanique" was gradually relocated and ultimately transformed into a French cultural center in 1984. The penalty for conducting the tour too intensively was being eaten by a crocodile.

On our journey through the city, we reached the water gate Krusipoort with a drawbridge over the Ringvaart canal. The gate and the first bridge were built in 1406. The original structure consisted of two gates, but the outer one was destroyed in 1760.

On the meadows along the canal, four windmills from the 18th century have been preserved. Sint-Janshuist is still operational, and you can see the flour milling process and visit the museum. A ticket costs 5 Euros.

This part of the city is quieter as most tourists finish their sightseeing at the main square. We can calmly admire the old streets decorated with flowers and even stumble upon a Polish shop. We passed a square with a monument to the famous Flemish portrait painter from Bruges, Jean van Eyck.

We returned to Brussels by evening train to the central station.

It took its final shape in 1822. We ascend to its peak (83 meters) via 366 steps, and on clear days, you can see the port of Zeebrugge, located 15 km away. A carillon consisting of 48 bells is placed in the tower. Concerts have been held on Sundays and public holidays since 1604. Entrance to the tower costs 15 Euros. The tower was the setting for the thriller film "In Bruges" starring Colin Farrell, Brendan Gleeson, and Ralph Fiennes, filmed in 2008.

Built at the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries, the town hall still serves as the meeting place for the city council and the civil registry office. It is one of the oldest such buildings in the Netherlands. Tours are available except on the last Monday of the month (city council session) and during the hours when weddings take place (Thursday and Saturday mornings and Friday evenings). A regular ticket costs 8 Euros. In the town hall's arcades, we find the most souvenir shops.

Grote Markt (the main square) has been bustling with life since the 10th century and has long served as the city's commercial center. It is now crowded with tourists due to its numerous restaurants and souvenir shops. The most distinctive buildings are the 12th-century bell tower and the town hall.

In the center of the square stands a monument to the weaver and the butcher, who gained fame in the "Battle of the Golden Spurs" in 1302. Citizens and peasants armed themselves against the elite French army. The scale of the knights' defeat is evidenced by the discovery of over 700 golden spurs on the battlefield.

Belfort (the bell tower), originally built in 1240, was initially a wooden structure that was repeatedly destroyed by fires and rebuilt.

The Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, built between 1290 and 1549, boasts the second tallest brick tower in the world (122 meters). Visiting the church is free. Entrance to the museum section costs 8 Euros. I couldn't find information about accessing the tower, so I assume it is not open to tourists. The most valuable exhibit in the church is Michelangelo's sculpture "Madonna of Bruges," created in 1504. It is one of the few works by the artist located outside of Italy.

We didn't have a specific sightseeing plan, but by strolling through the old town all day, you will still come across the most interesting monuments. A city map will help you identify them.

Walking from the train station to the center, we can pass through the park and the buildings of the beguine association. In Europe, there are few places left where beguines and beguards still actively operate. It is a secular Catholic community involved in charitable and religious activities but not a religious order. It was established in the early 12th century and mainly brought together solitary women whose husbands went on crusades.

Day four - Brussels

We began our sightseeing at the Place du Congrès, which is located along the city's main avenue, Rue Royale. One end is closed off by the Palace of Justice, while the other features the royal church of Sainte Marie. Due to our return flight to Poland, we spent the shorter day moving along the avenue.

The Congress Column, erected in 1859, commemorates the establishment of Belgium's constitution, which was drafted between 1830 and 1831.

Day three - Bruges

Taking advantage of a promotion, we bought a group tourist train ticket to Bruges. There are many trains from Brussels to Bruges, and the ticket covers most of them. Therefore, there's no need to rush to the station, and the journey will take us about 1.5 hours. Upon arrival, we will find a tourist information point where we can get a city map. We will move around on foot, and by reserving one day for sightseeing, we will definitely manage to see the entire old town. We just need to check the schedule for return trains to Brussels.

Bruges was granted city rights in 1128, but the first Roman fortifications were built in the 1st century during the time of Julius Caesar. It has always played the role of an important inland port due to the canals connecting the city to the sea. Since the early 11th century, the canals have been gradually silting up, and it was only a storm in 1134 that opened the natural Zwin canal, which is still used today for small yacht navigation (the distance from the sea is 15 km).

Trade contacts with England and Genoa led to the city's prosperity, where the first stock exchange in the Netherlands was opened in 1409. In the following centuries, Bruges gradually lost significance to Antwerp. During the world wars in the 20th century, the seaside port of Zeebrugge served as a base for German U-boat submarines.

The canals surrounding and flowing through the old town, along with buildings standing directly in the water, irresistibly evoke Venice. However, the style of architecture is quite different and lacks the opulence of Venetian decoration. It is austere in design, but because of that, it is very distinctive.

I highly recommend a visit to the local mini brewery, Brugse Zot. The tour lasts about 90 minutes, and with a ticket costing 26 euros, we have the opportunity to taste 3 types of beer currently being brewed. Please remember that we will have to climb about 220 stairs in the production area, and it's good to wear stable footwear (heels and flip-flops will definitely not work).

Second day

In an effort to make up for the losses from the first day, we probably made a maximum plan. We set off again from the Central Station, but this time we headed directly towards Place des Martyrs, bypassing the old town. Along the way, we passed "Cinema Nova" - a film theater run by volunteers since 1997. This non-profit organization promotes film production by independent creators. Place des Martyrs was established after Belgium's independence was proclaimed. In its center stands a monument to the "homeland," and in the depression around the monument, 467 insurgents who died in 1830 are buried.

We ended the day at the Manneken Pis statue (the peeing boy), which this time was not dressed up as anyone. This unassuming figure, about 50 centimeters tall, was made in 1619. It is known that similar figures stood in the same spot as early as the 15th century, but they were stolen multiple times. There are several legends surrounding the character of the famous Brussels boy. One of them refers to the siege of the city by Flemish troops in the 14th century. The attackers set a bomb to blow up the city walls, but a little boy noticed it and extinguished the fuse by urinating on it.

On our way back towards Gare Centrale (Central Station), we passed the unusual silhouette of St. Nicholas Church. The builders in the 12th century tried to bypass the stream and gave the church an irregular shape. Over time, the church was surrounded by additional buildings housing shops.

The Town Hall with its characteristic spire rising to 96 meters is an example of Brabantian Gothic architecture. The gilded statue of the city's patron, Archangel Michael, atop the tower stands 5 meters tall. Visiting the Town Hall is only possible with a guide on selected days of the week (ticket price around 15 Euros).

Opposite the Town Hall is the Maison du Roi (Royal House) built in the 15th century. It has never been the residence of a king, but the Duke of Brabant placed part of his administration there, competing with the city authorities for influence. The building was extensively renovated in the 19th century and has housed the city museum since 1887. In the salon on the second floor, over 800 costumes are displayed, which the urinating boy has been dressed in (including a Krakow folk costume and a dockworker's outfit). Admission costs 8 Euros.

The eastern wing of the square is closed by the Maison des Ducs de Brabant (House of the Dukes of Brabant). In fact, it is a complex of 7 townhouses that received a common facade after the French bombardment of the city in 1695.

The guild houses complete the remaining space of the market. Most of them currently host restaurants and cafes on the ground floor.

After eating traditional mussels with fries and beer, we retraced our steps from the Holy Island towards the Grand Place, where a considerable surprise awaited us. Every two years in August, the square is adorned with a flower carpet measuring 25 by 75 meters. Each time it features a different design made up of around 1 million begonias. Fortunately, the timing of our visit coincided with the unveiling of the new composition.

I believe this is the most beautiful square I have seen on our travels, and not just because of the flower carpet. Since the 12th century, it has served as a marketplace, and only after the Town Hall (Hotel de Ville) was built in the 15th century did it gain political significance. However, the market was not abolished until November 1959.

Each of the buildings in the square deserves a separate description, but I will try to be brief.

By shortening the path through the royal galleries of St. Hubert, we made our way to the "Holy Island," the oldest part of the old town north of the Grand Place. The passage, covered by a glass roof and stretching 200 meters, was opened in 1847. Since then, it has housed the most luxurious shops, and at number 23, we find a chocolate shop run continuously by the Neuhaus family. In 1912, they patented a new type of chocolate - pralines.

The alleys of the Holy Island are a paradise for food lovers. In numerous restaurants, we can find all the dishes of the local cuisine. Colorful leaflets handed out by the staff in the middle of the streets will help us choose. Street names derived from the Middle Ages are written in Gothic letters. At number 58 on Butchers' Street, we enter an alley with a fountain of a spouting girl installed in 1945. At number 12, we find a fountain with a pissing girl (Jeanneke Pis), created in 1987 as a counterpoint to the pissing boy - the most famous fountain in Brussels. To complete the set, there is also a pissing dog (Zinneke Pis), but in another part of the city.

Prices in restaurants have doubled since our visit. For a typical dish of local cuisine, we paid around 20 Euros. You can opt for fast food as well - a Big Mac set costs about 12 Euros, beer ranges from 4 to 8 Euros depending on the type, and popular fries with sauces are around 5 Euros.

As we crossed the Spanish Square, we headed towards the center of the old town. The square was created quite recently as a result of the construction of underground parking for the main train station. Since 1989, a statue of Don Quixote, a replica of the one in Madrid, has reigned over it. It is a gift to Brussels from the capital of Spain.

By the fountain in Agora Square sat the most distinguished mayor of Brussels - Karel Bulsa, accompanied by his loyal friend. He looks as if he just paused his reading to watch the performances of street artists. In addition to caring for the preservation of historic buildings, he introduced a requirement for all officials and police officers to use French and Flemish, as well as bilingual signs with street names.

Brussels

The first mentions of the city date back to the late 10th century, where it is described as a defensive settlement. It became the capital of the Duchy of Brabant and an important trading center on the route from Bruges to Cologne. During this period, the city center was established, now known as the Grand Place. Naturally, after the proclamation of independence in 1830, Brussels was chosen as the capital of the young state.

The first King of Belgium, Leopold, ordered the demolition of the defensive walls, which allowed for the city's expansion, continued by Leopold II and the mayorJules Anspach. If it weren't for the determined stance of the next mayor Karel Bulsthe entire historic city center would have undergone renovation in the second half of the 19th century. Thanks to him, many historic buildings have been preserved, and his monument is located in Agora Square.

Day one

Since we lost quite a bit of time relocating to the new apartment, we had to revise our plans. We started our sightseeing at the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula. The first church was built on the Treurenberg hill in the 11th century and has been rebuilt multiple times. Its current form was achieved only in the 16th century, which is why its architecture is a mix of styles from Brabantine Gothic to Renaissance. The characteristic two towers rise to a height of 64 meters. The southern tower houses 49 carillon bells, an instrument whose keys move the hearts of the bells. The northern tower contains a single bell "Salvator" weighing 6645 kg tuned to the note G. The carillon was built in 1966. The organ is also a contemporary instrument that was put into use in 2000. Inside the cathedral, particular attention should be paid to the wooden pulpit from 1699 and the massive stained glass windows from 1537-38 depicting scenes from the history of the Duchy of Brabant.

Among tourists, Belgium is perceived as a country with illuminated highways at night, the statue of the urinating boy in Brussels, excellent fries with mayonnaise, strong beer, and comics.

Belgians themselves are treated with a certain condescension in the region. Suffice it to say that most of the jokes we know about Wąchock (Polish village) - the French tell about Belgians.

The first encounter with organizational chaos was at Brussels airport, where our luggage not only came out on the wrong conveyor belt but each piece was on a different one. We attributed this to the bomb attacks at the airport and metro station in March 2016. Part of the airport terminal was still under renovation, armored vehicles were stationed on the streets, and there were plenty of military patrols. For departures, passport and baggage checks were introduced at the train station connecting the capital to the airport to relieve the services at the airport.

The owner of the apartment also let us down, as he did not show up with the keys and did not answer the phone. Fortunately, Booking.com rose to the occasion and quickly arranged another accommodation of a higher standard at the same price.

There are many flights to Brussels, both with budget and regular airlines. From the airport to the center of Brussels, we take a train that departs every 10 minutes, and the journey takes about 20 minutes. A round-trip ticket costs 21.60 Euro. You can also take bus line 620, which costs a one-time fee of 2.50 Euro and takes about 30 minutes.

We travel with an ID card and Euros in our pockets. In Brussels, we can move around by metro or buses (a single ticket paid with a contactless card costs 2.10 Euro, with a maximum daily charge of 7.50 Euro, meaning the fifth and subsequent rides are free). We also used a group ticket for the train to Bruges, where we spent one day. The price of a single round-trip ticket is 34 Euro, but it’s worth looking for discounts.

Belgium - a bit of history and practical information

Belgium, which is mainly associated with the European Parliament, is a relatively young country, established in 1830. In ancient times, these lands were inhabited by Celts and were part of the Roman Empire. They were conquered by Julius Caesar, and the local tribes were turned into slaves and Romanized.

After the fall of the empire, the lands were ruled by the Franks until the 12th century when the Duchy of Brabant was established. The autonomy of the duchy was guaranteed by the state privilege of 1356. The period between the 12th and 16th centuries saw rapid economic development in the region under Habsburg rule, initially from the Spanish line and later from the Austrian.

The revocation of state privileges by Emperor Joseph II in 1789 triggered an anti-Austrian uprising, but the path to an independent state was still long. Belgium was incorporated into France and, after Napoleon's fall, was merged with the Kingdom of the Netherlands. It was not until 1830 that the Belgians rose up against the Dutch and proclaimed their own state.

The two countries differ in religion. While the Netherlands is decidedly Protestant, Belgium remains strongly tied to the Catholic faith. Additionally, the earlier subjugation to France means that the southern part of the country is French-speaking, while the north is Flemish-speaking, belonging to the Germanic language group.

Despite its proclaimed neutrality, Belgium was attacked by Germany during both world wars due to its location on the route to northern France.

Currently, Brussels is the most "international" city in Europe due to the presence of NATO and European Union institutions, which have been established here since 1957. Interestingly, several founding countries initially vied for the EU (formerly EEC) headquarters. It was proposed to rotate the headquarters, with Belgium being the first country indicated in alphabetical order. This arrangement has remained, as the costs of relocating the headquarters proved too high - the number of officials employed at the NATO and EU headquarters exceeds 40,000.

Brussels, Bruges

August 2016